If there have been old threads I’ve not found (still working through the new site’s format and computer issues) please point me in their direction…? Aside from the increased cost are there reasons not to use suitcase connectors? Do they aid shorts and/or power loss issues or hide them more? I have friends that claim they help find issues but we have to solder feeder wires to track anyway… I’d appreciate as much info. and opinions as possible as, I’m sure, would others. Thanks.
I’ve used suitcase connectors before and quickly resolved not to use them again. #1 they do not create a solid connection. When you crimp the connector down onto your wire it cuts several strands as it’s crimped down. This invites corrosion to enter that area. They’ll work good for a while on DC but with DCC voltage drops will show up much faster. #2 On the types I’ve used once they’re in place you’re not getting them off unless you cut them out of the line. All you do there is create two more possible problem points as you have to wire in a splice.
Better to solder the first time and be done with it.
Been there and done that.
Agree 100% with the previous post!
As an aircraft maintenance type, I am adamantly against anything that does not provide a positive, permanent (and/or easily separated) electrical connection that will last the lifetime of the airframe. Now, consider how many really old aircraft are still certified airworthy…
IMHO, the only acceptable connections are either hard-soldered or connected to a terminal strip with a solid, screw-down locking system.
Those, “Push the wire into the slotted bar,” communications terminal strips are just as bad. Given a little vibration (heavy trucks going by) and a salt-air environment and they, too, will become unreliable.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I began using Posi-Tap connectors instead of “suitcase” connectors on my present layout. They are much easier and faster to install (under a minute) and I have had zero reliability problems with them.
I’m sure that a properly soldered connection is best, but working underneath a layout to solder something that is above you–usually with poor lighting, to boot–is just not my idea of fun.
John Timm
I am a retired electronics technician and I won’t use them except for a temporary fix.
I agree with the first two posts.
And for a dissenting opinion:
I have the wiring from the track coming down to a terminal strip. The wire is soldered at the rail, and terminates at the other end in a spade terminal that is secured to the screw terminal on the terminal strip. From the terminal strip to the bus, I have a spade terminal at the terminal strip end. The other end connects to the bus in a suitcase connector (IDC).
I don’t enjoy soldering, and I enjoy soldering even less when sitting (in my case) or laying under the benchwork. My eyes are no longer the greatest. I have bi-focals and the joint to be soldered is usually too far away to be seen clearly with the reading lenses or too close to be seen clearly with the distance lenses. If you make the solder joint, you should tape it up or otherwise insulate the connection. This means another trip under the benchwork. I find the IDC much more convenient. Since I only use the IDC at the bus connections, the $15 bag of them did not break the bank.
Concerning some of the objections voiced about the IDCs, I use #12 solid wire for my power bus. There is not an issue with any strands breaking. I also use #20 solid wire to go from the bus to the terminal strip (not that far a distance). Again, no problem with breaking strands.
Concerning the corrosion issue, I’m not qualified to speak. However, looking around the internet I see that those flat computer cables, among other things, are terminated in a form of IDC. If moisture intrusion were that much of a concern I think that they’d use a different type of termination. It would certainly seem to me that using these things in a normal model railroad environment should not be a problem. Besides, IDCs were not invented for model railroad use and adapted for use for other things. It’s the other way around. S
I have to replace my hard drive cables (flat ribbon cables) on average every two years because of corrosion problems brought on by humidity. During that two year period I have to remove them several times to clean the pins. The computer is in the same room as the layout. Because people keep buying them thinking that they can save time and money on a wiring or repair job.
Capt. Grimek,
As someone who has installed a couple thousand “suitcase” connectors on my club’s layout (literally), I will take the opposite tack here and recommend them for model railroad use. They aren’t perfect, but then neither is soldering. I’ve seen far more bad solder joints than bad suitcases, for example.
The cost can be mitigated by buying boxes of 100 at electrical supply houses. Last I checked, it was something like $8 per box, making the connectors about 8 cents a pop. This is a lot better than buying them at Home Depot or a hardware store where they can be 25 cents ea. or more.
Reasons not to use them is as described above. They can “go bad” and loose connectivity, especially if you use the wrong size. They can be “fun” to install if you don’t have the right tool or the right technique. You can also run out of room on the bus if you have a lot of feeders in a small location.
Reasons to use them are: they are fast to install, they won’t cause a short for any reason, they are quick to remove and leave almost no bare wire behind, and you don’t have to solder above your head or mess with lots of terminal strips using up a lot of wire. Also, if you lift the cover, you can put a multimeter lead on the bus and find out if it’s working without running to the end of the bus.
jeffrey-wimberly,
They do provide a solid connection if using the right sizes. I’ve never seen a suitcase connector cut any strands of any size wire, from 10AWG to 24AWG. Corrosion is not that big a deal for most model railroads (unlike a car or boat). DC or DCC makes no difference in their ability to conduct current. I don’t know what type of suitcases you’ve used, but taking these off the bus is a snap: Open the cover, stick a medium to large sized flat screwdiver in the side of the connector (along the bus side), then twist the screwdr
I agree. I find them easy to use and easy to remove if necessary. I also use solid wire so I’m not concerned about strands being cut off. As Paul stated, using the correct size is important. My layout is 40 inches high and it is a lot easier to use the suitcases under the layout for me than soldering.
Paul, I’ve seriously edited these quotes for space. I hope I haven’t distorted your original thoughts.
Poor soldering technique leads to poor connections. Well-soldered connections will last for decades. Some of mine are approaching 30.
Granted that the consequences of failure for an airborne installation are immeasurably greater. IMHO the reliability issue is the same. Failure is not an acceptable option - ever - in any application.
As for the people who object to standing on their heads under the layout with a hot soldering gun in one hand - move the (fillintheadjective) buss
I prefer soldering. Here is what I made to suit working under my layout. You can make one to suit you, padded seat/back, adjusable angle. I have a little roll around table for tools and drink. If you have trouble getting up, just slowly roll off.
Reading some other forums, It seems some pepole do not use the right size wire to match the connector or use the proper crimp tool. Sometimes pliers do not work very well if you have not done this type of work before. Having done electrical work for some years, I have seen this happen. Many modelers have very little soldering/electrical/mechanical experience. Things to consider.
Rich
I have used “Suitcase Connectors” for many projects and never had a problem with them. As other replies have said, it is very important to use the correct size for the wire being used and to ensure that they have been properly closed. I would think that if wire strands are being cut that the wrong size is being used. I cannot see that corrosion should be a great problem as the force on the wire/slot joint is probably in the region of tons. I am sure that that the branded manufacturers of IDC connectors will have literature available addressing the reliability of this type of connector.
I have computer equipment dating back to the 1980’s which is still running with IDC and/or crimp connectors and cannot recall having a failure in IDC cables other than those caused by my own stupidity ( Removing connectors by pulling the cable etc.). I have had many faults caused by poor connectivity between plug and socket but this is often related to insufficient pressure between pin and socket or problems due to dissimilar plating having been used on these components and is not related to it being an IDC connector.
Dave
Count me as one of the solder guys. It’s quick, easy, and cheap. If you’re concerned about shorts, two tricks: liquid electrical tape and stagger the feeder conenctions - so the two are not directly adjacent to each other and could only touch if the bus wire was pulled one way or the other. One of those good Ideal wire strippers can strip in the middle of a wire run, pullign back th einsulation, and you just wrap the feeder and hit it with the sodlering gun. Several things help under the layout - a work light, not using a BLACK wire - red and white are more easily distinguished in the dark, and my soldering gun has a light bulb in it that shines on the tip.
I don’t trust anything that just crimps on. Like the spade and ring terminals to connect to terminal strips - I crimp them on (with the proper tool) AND solder - I’ve seen too many pull out. Plus they don;t make IDC connectors for the two wire sizes I use - at least 3M doesn’t. #20 feeder and #12 bus. And it would be extremely silly to use a #12 to #16 IDC, a short section of #16, and a #16 to #20 IDC.
–Randy
On my layout I have hundreds of suitcase connections and hundreds of solder joints. They both work fine when done correctly. Suitcase connections are easier, soldering is cheaper. It all depends on the mood I am in at the time.
Thanks everyone. You’ve all given me a lot to weigh and consider and best of all specific info. and experiences! I’ll keep lurking and learning. I’m a ways out from wiring time, but want to visit some layouts in my area and see how the suitcase connectors are fairing and maybe get a lesson or two installing them before I decide which way I want to go. I truly appreciate the time you’ve all taken to respond and discuss. Capt. G.
Speaking as a retired electrical contractor, I’d just say :
Be sure to use the correct size for the gauges of wire involved and learn to install them CORRECTLY, or don’t use them AT ALL. They’re only worth the convenience and extra cost if they’re done right. They were really meant for electricians to make quick, easy, mass-production connections inside rows of light fixtures with a light amperage load on the wire tapped onto the through conductor. But they’ve been widely misused and abused, with predictable results.
Worst example I know (not from model railroading): taillilght wiring connections inside the frame of a boat trailer I bought. Great until the first time you launch.
What, you didn;t realize when they said “boat launch” they meant it literally, as in you are supposed to back down the ramp at high speed then stop quickly before the trailer gets wet, shooting the boat into the water?
[(-D] [(-D] [(-D]
–Randy
When it came time to start construction on my layout, suitcase connectors seemed to be the big thing when looking online and in magazines. However, I didn’t feel comfortable using them since I wanted to make solid connections on my wiring where I needed to splice wires together. However, I had no experience with soldering whatsoever.
About that time, Model Railroader had an article on soldering wiring. It didn’t look as hard as I’d thought it would be. I got a new soldering iron, solder, etc. and practiced on some scrap wires that I had. After that, I soldered all of my connections (except at terminals where wires are screwed in) on my entire layout. It went fast, and the connections are neat and clean. After soldering and testing the connections, I went back and sealed them with liquid electrical tape from Micro-Mark.
Kevin
Hi!
Suitcase and other connectors definitely have their place, as does soldering and other types of electrical connection. My layout is a combo of these, with the connections that might get moved or need extra durability soldered. Smaller gauge wire (solid ONLY) are connected using the proper size suitcase connector where soldering is difficult and/or the suitcase or push in connector just makes it so much easier. Again, I only use solid wire, and would not use stranded wire with them.
Oh, a test connectivity of each connection when finished. This step could save you a lot of grief later.
While we are on the subject of connections and wiring, may I relate that the most difficult wiring problem I ever had on any layout was caused by a staple that cut thru two wires and shorted them - but only on occasion. So if you attach your wiring with staples, make sure the wires are not cut and can move easily under the staple head.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
Although I’ve only been using IDCs (suitcase connectors) for a couple of months now on my rewired DCC layout, I’ve been happy with the results so far. I use them to make the connection between my 14ga solid track bus and the smaller 18ga stranded go-between bus wire that runs to my terminal strips.
The metal clip on the IDC has a notch in it so that the wire(s) you are “crimping” to slip into the notch. That helps maximize the surface area where the clip makes contact with the outer surface of the wire. (This also reiterates the importance of using the correct size IDC for the wiring you are using to wire your layout.) Joe Fugate claims he’s been using IDCs for 10+ years on his Siskiyou layout with nary a problem with them.
However, I do agree with Randy’s practice concerning his crimp connections: Crimp and solder. And I’ve found that when I solder the crimp connection, enough solder gets underneath that it pushes the crimped indentation back out again. Ideally, a mechanical and electrical connection is the best combination for bullet-proof wiring. However, I think the IDCs do make for a nice compromise and they are easy to install.
And, thanks to Paul 3, I didn’t realize that you could actually remove an IDC from a wire with just a screwdriver. Thanks, Paul! [tup]
Tom