Super Glue Accelerator

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I have never been very impressed by super glue. It does not work instantly or at least not fast enough for me.

I have read that a super glue accelerator spray can make super glue bond instantly.

Have others used the accelerator? What is your experience? Do you need to wear gloves?

Rich

2

[:-^]

Hi Rich,

The accelertor itself works great… However the dispenser is the S—S. instead of trying to use it’s spray, I just undo the top and let it drain down to just a dropplet left and let it drip on the area I want fastened. I wish they would improve and reduce the spray size, it goes everywhere you don’t want it.

Johnboy out…

3

Some years ago I use to use baking soda sprinkled on the joint. Cheap enough.

Rich

4

I bought small 1o ml. spray bottles from Amazon and keep one with some accelerator in it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXXP0DQ?psc=1

The stuff will dry your skin out in a hurry but trying to use ACC is tricky enough without gloves. I’m sure I would make bigger a mess if I had gloves on.

I found out the hard way that ACC “kicker” will instantly fog clear styrene. I was trying to glue a crew into the cab of a steam locomotive. I had a tiny drop of ACC on his pants’ seat and the silly stuff just would NOT set. After holding the figure in place with tweezers for a minute or more, trying to huff moist, exhaled breath on him… he would drop to the floor and the glue would be as wet as I first applied it!

I had just bought some accelerator. Great chance to try it out, I thought [I]

One quick spritz into the cab and I suddenly realized that all the windows had just turned to a permanent, foggy haze!

[2c] [2c] [2c]

Good Luck, Ed

5

Rich,

I use CA accelerant all the time. Don’t spray it…The fumes are nasty. I use a needle applicator.

The quickest setting CA I have found is the water thin stuff…the thicker stuff usually requires accelerant for my purposes.

One other comment - use ventilation and what ever you do, don’t knock the accelerant bottle over (quick… run).

Guy

6

The old saying you don’t get something for nothing also applies. A CA joint with accelerator is still strong, but it not as strong as one that cures naturally. The accelerator is very volatile and evaporates into strong fumes, so good ventallation is important. I agree with the comments above about not using the spray. All it takes is a small drop of accelerator to do the job, spray wastes a lot of the chemical.

7

Hey, guys, I appreciate all of the comments so far. This is a good learning process for me.

I am trying to find a suitable adhesive for resin castings. I have used 2-part clear epoxy glue but it is too thick and gooey, and it seems to dry brittle. Using just CA adhesive without the accelerator doesn’t really do the job, but I may be applying it to heavily.

I suppose another possibility is caulk or liquid nails or whatever.

Rich

8

I have used Testor’s Accellerator and “Zip Kicker” with about equal results. I only use accelerant on joints that are too awkward to hold for 90 seconds. As mentioned before, a naturally cured super glue joint is preferable.

.

-Kevin

.

9

I have used both CA and 5 Minute Epoxy on resin castings. This epoxy is strong and starts to set up quickly, but I like to give it an overnight cure as well.

10

I used this to assemble a Sylvan Models Great Lakes Ore Boat with very good results:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/E-Z-Bond-Instant-Glue-Thick-2-oz-p/ezb-s320.htm

The same CA does not work well at all with the kind of resin used by Funero and Carmalengo— but Zap-A-Gap does. You will probably have to make a comparison for yourself to see what works best for the formulation of resin you are using.

I don’t think you would be too successful with the Liquid Nails. Cheap caulk (Alex Plus) probably would not be strong enough and the better ones have silicone which will not take paints very well.

I found out, too, that when trying to cement Tichy styrene stake pockets to the side of a F&C flat car the CA would not set up. Then I tried the accelerator and the styrene stake pockets, a very fine molding, practically vaporized after coming in contact with the accelerator!

You just have to experiment and settle for what works with the least “headaches”

Regards, Ed

11

Hi Rich:

Don’t forget to clean the resin parts before assembly. The parts are usually covered in some sort of mold release chemical which the kit makers don’t take the time to remove. Sylvan sells a specific cleaner but I think it is just a regular citrus based cleaner at a higher price. Palmolive dish soap is supposed to work well too.

I used Gorilla CA (NOT Gorilla wood glue) on the relatively few resin kits that I have built and it seems to work just fine. The kits were from Funaro and Camerlengo, and Kaslo Shops. The only joints that came apart were those between the resin frame and the sheet lead that I used to add weight (the lead sheet was not part of the kit). That was my bad for not bothering to clean the lead sheet properly. Once the lead was given a light sanding the joint was quite solid.

I do use a kicker, and as others have said, the spray is quite wasteful.

Dave

12

Thanks for all of the comments on possible adhesives for the resin castings.

This is proving to be the Achilles Heel of my project.

I continue to improve the resin castings, especially the pilasters, but binding the individual resin castings together is proving to be much more challenging than I could have imagined.

Last evening, I tried a thin coat of CA adhesive and some baking soda. It seemed to be holding well as I retired for the night. But when I got up this morning, the glued pieces broke apart with just the slightest pressure.

So, I will continue to look for other adhesives.

Rich

13

Rich,

I just had typed up a whole list of things for You and the damn site was reset and I lost it all…so I’ll try a shorter version:

You should have not put anything on the parts to be joined…You should have sanded them with 180 grit sandpaper, wiped off the dust then apply…no need to even wash them when sanded.

As others have stated, the use of an Accelerant weakens the bond, when I do have to use it…the key is to put the kicker on one piece and CA on the other, then put together. I don’t use the spray, I buy the refill bottle and use a glass eye dropper to apply or micro brush. I use Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ for most things without kicker. Some things I use Zap Gel PT-27 with no-drip tip and ZAP Zip Kicker for Accelerant.

For glueing Your parts together, You should be able to use the same resin you used for making the parts to glue them together…use a stiff throw away brush to apply sparingly…and leave alone til cured. Making a jig would be helpful for large sections. You could more than likely get a cheaper price for the materials you need from an Auto body shop supplier from quarts to gallons catalyst/resin and even throw away acid brushes (that’s what the brushes are callled)for applying the resin. Been playing with fiberglass resin for yrs. repairing all glass truck hoods…no one ever complained about My repair jobs coming apart…along with painting them.

Got any questions? You know how to reach Me.

Good Luck on Your Project! [:D]

Frank

14

Cleaning the mold release is essencial on resin castings for both assembly and painting. I use Zep Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser from Home Depot. I spray the parts, then follow with a warm water rinse

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-24-oz-Heavy-Duty-Citrus-Degreaser-ZUCIT24/203249483

One of these bottles should be a lifetime supply of cleaner for resin parts. It is similar to the product that Sylvan Scale sells

15

Frank, you are not alone. I think it is the forum software. The longer the reply, the more likely it is that you will lose it before posting it. Happens to me on occasion.

I have considered the Zap-A-Gap Super Glue and accelerant, the kind you described with the pipette.

Earlier today, I applied the liquid resin mix to the joints of two wall sections, and the bond seems to be holding. Once it is fully cured, I will apply pressure to see what it takes to break the bond.

Rich

16

I may well have found a solution to the adhesive problem when trying to glue resin cast parts together.

I made a small mix of A and B parts of resin and applied it to the joints between two wall sections. For extra stability, I also applied a small amount of the resin mix to the back of the wall section directly over the joint. After allowing time to cure, it really seems to be holding up quite well.

Thanks for that suggestion, Frank.

Rich

17

Hi Rich:

I’m glad you have found a solution. I look forward to seeing your project take shape.

I don’t know if this is relevant or not, but I do know that fiberglass resin produces a wax covering as it cures, and that wax has to be removed before additional fiberglass can be added to the structure. Does molding resin do the same thing?

Dave

18

Hi Dave, I’m not sure that I have an answer to your question.

When the resin mix cures, which only takes about 15 minutes or so, it hardens into a shiny, firm piece of resin. As such, it is not porous and that is why conventional plastic glues do not work.

Before I applied the resin mix as an adhesive, I sanded the joints and also washed the wall sections in soapy water. I don’t know if I really needed to do that, but I figured, what the heck. Whether the cured resin part left a wax residue, I cannot say for sure.

Rich

19

Rich:

I think you have covered all the bases.

Dave

20

I sure hope so. This has proven to be an interesting journey of sorts.

Rich