Super Glue vs. J.D. Weld for metal to metal

I’m in process of replacing all my Williams handrails with my own specially made copper handrails, which are aluminum wire and the stanchions are 14 ga copper wire that I hammered flat.

I tried super glue (same as crazy glue?) to affix the stanchions to the metal lip, but encountered several problems.

  1. It is hard to dole out just the right amount of super glue. Too much and it doesn’t stick very well.

  2. The super glue dries much too quickly when I need to line up all the stanchions simultaneously so I cannot reposition them

I switched to JB Weld (found at auto body stores and HD and Lowes). The stuff is strong enough (so it claims) to fixed cracked engine blocks.

It worked perfectly for security the stanchions in place. The downside is that it takes 15 hours curing time, but that was not a concern with the project. Also, you must hide the JB Weld you emplace as it does not dry clear like super glue.

For other projects, super glue might be adventagous; just not for this one.

if you look closely, you can see where I ripped off the front handrails/stanchions on the Williams GP-9 and replaced. Gonna complete the rest later.

They make “5 Minute” J.B.Weld…and there is “Slow” cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) that can be activated by “CA Kicker” when the parts are in place. Get the slow CA and Kicker from any Hobby Shop that deals with R/C airplanes…

thanks, Jim.

learning much here

maybe just add vinager to slow curing time

Dave Jim is right on about the slow CA. JB Weld is great for a lot, but probably more for larger repairs than for adhesive. Years ago I fixed the transmission cooler line on a semi auto VW Beetle. The line (special part, dealer only) was about $50, JB Weld back then (about 18 years ago) was about $2. I applied a layer and while wet wrapped it with fiberglass cloth then another layer of JB Weld after it had cured.

underworld

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

Try epoxy!

It comes in a double syringe.
There are many varities & some even dry crystal clear.