In setting up an old layout I had packed away, I found I had several switches which are #6 Remote switches. The RTS software I have shows the Standard Switch to be shorter than the #6. My new figure 8 with an up-and-over crossover layout says I need a standard switch right in the middle (on the ground of course). Can I use the #6 here instead of the standard without too many problems?
Who made the switches and the layout?
The tracks pieces and the switches are all Atlas.
Assuming you intend to place the turnout where an arc of the circles goes–It probably will not work like I think you are intending without changing at least part of the curve coming off of the turnout…
On the Atlasrr.com site, in a forum, I found an explanation that the “standard” #4’s are actually designed to fit on the curve of a 19” radius in place of one piece of sectional track. They are, therefore, the equivalent of #3.8 frogs, and right at 5” length. Whatever the actual frog used by them is, the divergent track is at a 15 degree angle—same as 5” section of their 19” radius track.
The #6 will be about an inch longer, and at a different divergent angle, thus too long and off-tangent from your loop.
The answer I recommend: —flex track for curves. You can come off the (roughly, 10 degree) divergence of a #6 and gently tighten the curve until you are back to the 19” radius.
I am making several assumptions here, so measure what you have to see if what Iam assuming matches.
Crews
Thanks for your help guys. I think I have solved my problem though. You must remember, I am relatively new at this and the solution turned out to be very simple.
The #6 Switch is exactly 1 1/4" longer than the standard switch. (I’m referring to the straight section). The straight section was all I was really concerned with. It was the connecting straight piece of track right at the middle of the bottom “X”, under the crossover. The curved part of the switch takes a side line out into the open space of the “8” and ends.
In the layout plan it said to use a S4 section at the top end of the straight side. I didn’t notice this until I returned from the store tonight with a Standard switch in hand and measured it side by side with the #6. It is exactly 1 1/4" shorter. The same length as the S4 piece I was supposed to add in. I just omitted the S4 piece and all is well.
I feel so stupid. Thanks for putting up with me.