Does anyone have experience with Sylvan automobiles? Are there any metal parts or do you have to paint all chrome silver? I’ve done the solid resin kits, Jordan kits & the Alloy forms kits. Their web site doesn’t really tell you much. Thanks
Jerry,
Other than the plastic windows, Sylvan kits are all resin. (So, yes - you’ll have to use silver paint to create anything that’s chrome-like.) And be sure to clean off the release agent from the parts BEFORE you paint them.
I’ve put together 5 or 6 of them. Terrific kits! And I’m very thankful for the Sylvan offerings. Before they came along, there was a dearth of cars and trucks from the 30s and 40s in HO. Now there’s quite a nice variety from them, as well as from Classic Metal Works and Athearn.
Tom
I assume soap & water will clean off the mold release, or should I use alcohol? Glad they include glazing…not loke the Alloy Forms. Thanks
I use Ivory dishwashing liquid and warm (NOT hot) water. Others like to use a grease-cutter like Dawn. 70% alcohol is overkill but shouldn’t harm the resin.
Tom
The Sylvan vehicles are nicely done, although fairly expensive compared to the ones from Jordan. Sometimes the rubber tires require some clean-up work, at least on some of the earlier releases.
The truck and green car are from Sylvan, while the grey Essex is from Jordan:
These particular trucks come as flatbeds, as I recall, and I built several with different height sides for a local coal & ice business. The front wheels can be positioned, but they then have to be glued in place. Most of the vehicles I have came with a driver figure - generally a torso with head and arms.
Wayne
Nice job on the models!..I’m just concerned about painting the chrome trim. Bumpers shouldn’t be a problem, but the chrome strips look challenging.
Jerry,
I’ve found that micro swabs work REALLY well for that particular application - even better than a good 10-0 paint brush because there are no bristles to spread apart as the paint is applied. A toothpick could work in a pinch, too.
Tom
Waiting for the mailman to bring my first Sylvan kit… I really liked the Alloy forms except for making the windshields. You could scratch the paint off to make the “chrome”.
Sylvan recommends one of those orange citrus degreaser / cleaners that you can get at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. A spray bottle of the stuff will give you a lifetime supply
One thing I like is they all come with a driver figure; they even have a name in the instructions
The green Mack Dysarts truck is Sylvan, the trailer is CMW
The White SuperPower tanker is also Sylvan
I have a number of other Sylvan kits that I have not built yet…[|)], need to get to them!!
Nice modeling…Got my kit yesterday & the wheel castings were chipped. just have to make do. The body casting looked great & the driver looked OK after some surgery. Broke the bumper while cleaning the flash…crazy glue is drying now, won’t touch it till tomorrow. Looks like the glazing will be an adventure, but I’m optimistic about the outcome. A lot more satisfying than opening a blister pack & placing a vehicle on the layout.
Jerry,
E-mail Claire Gilbert (owner) at Sylvan Models about the wheel castings. Great guy and he’ll make good on them. I had a missing tire on one of my truck kits and he sent me an ENTIRE set - FREE. Same for a broken part, which was even my fault.
Tom
Another source of 50s vintage vehicles is Stoney Mountain Classic Castings. They are back after an absense of about 10 years. There are solid resin kits similar to the Magnussen / Wathers kits.
http://www.shop.stoneymountaincc.com/600-Series-1-87-SCALE-CLASSIC-VEHICLES_c2.htm
SOme of the ones I have are:
COE box truck
The blue Nash Ambassador in front of Reillys
IN this group shot, the blue, green and brown cars are Nash Ambassadors. I had a problem with casting bubbles in one of the cars, and returned it to SMCC. They replaced it, included another car, and returned the bad castiing for use as a background kit
I also have the 1950 Chevy Suburban, but can not find a photo of it.
I met the owner at the Naperville RPM meet. He had a table there and he’s a real nice guy. The prototype modelers at Naperville are some of the worst nit=pickers and rivet-counters so he must have faith in his product! The guys selling inaccurate junk are nowhere to be found at an RPM meet 'specially Naperville!
Royce
Checked the Stoney mountain web site. They look good & are reasonably priced. I’ll have to try a few. Thanks for the info. Do you use the clear castings? if so, what do you use to mask the windows?
I have not tried the clear castings. With the white ones, I air brush the whole model, then brush paint the windows black with a touch of dark blue as a highlight. Finish with a spray of clear gloss amd maybe a bit of weathering.