I have heard people say that they use sharp wooden skewers to uncouple Kadee type couplers. Can someone explain the technique for doing this. I have tried, but have had very limited success.
Just pu***he point of a shishkabob skewer down between the closed knuckles of the couplers and they will separate. This works best if there is some slack in the couplers because the area where the skewer needs to be inserted opens up.
I just pull the trip pin over.
Sometimes it takes a slight twist to open them.
Bob K.
Mouse told me to give the skewer a twirl, and that works most of the time. As Charles said, slack between the cars is a must…at least in my experience.
I would be careful not to shove the skewer between the couplers too roughly as they are only on models.
And some lead off a pencil helps lube it a little.
Ken.
I’ll have to try that, Ken. Thanks for the tip.
-Crandell
I have used a small screw driver, the 3" kind with the shirt pocket clip. Also, Accurail has a tool available:
#1001 Switchman Uncoupling Tool 2 Pcs. $1.99
Jim
I file mine a little flat, like a small screwdriver. A small jeweler’s screwdriver works as well, but one scredriver costs more than a whole pack of skewers.
–Randy
All I use are wooden skewers. Like NZRMac said, rub a pencil lead all over the tip to help it slip and turn better. When inserting the skewer in the couplers don’t push down very hard. Just insert, apply very light pressure and twist. If the couplers don’t separate, roll the skewer between your thumb and finger gently.
Seems to me that slack is also necessary for prototype uncoupling.
Tom
Welcome to 2006. or is this 1946???
I still like the McDonald’s coffee stir sticks. You do have to trim the paddle to a point.
That is what I use and they work great on KD’s. I have experienced some difficulty on the McHenry shelf couplers as well as their sprung knuckle couplers. Maybe it is just me.
Mike in Tulsa
BNSF Cherokee Sub
Right you are tatans. I think one of the most comical things about our hobby is that while we design our layouts with sophisticated CAD software, operate with radio controlled throttles, activate sound and lighting features on our $200-300 engines, discuss our techniques on computers with fellow modelers worldwide… we’re uncoupling with bamboo skewers. [:D] (I do it too).
Well, there’s two ways to apply technology. Ypou can make a Jetson’s layout where all you do is push a button and all sorts of things happen automatically, hands off, just watch the trains run. Or you can use it to make operating more realistic. Take that nifty handheld throttle on one hand, and the skewer int he other, and go spot some cars the way the real guys do (COMPLETELY real if you think of the beltpack remote controls used these days in various places). Real trains don;t have to stop at a certain point over a magnet to uncouple and then continue shoving the cars in the siding, they shove the cars in place and then someone pulls the pin and uncouples the car.
I’m as much a tech guy as anyone, but the most I;d ever consider for complete automation on my layout is the unrealistic staging job, possibly having the computer control bring the train from staging to a crew change point where the actual operator would take over, and vice-versa to runt he train into staging. It’s either that, or get someone to take the job of hidign back in the staging area and run the trains in and out per the schedule, like Lee Nicholas’s “Mole” job.
–Randy
Good points, Randy.
Why not take the motors out of the locomotives and just pu***he trains around with your finger (or a wood skewer) How about reaching way across to the back of the layout and throwing a hand operated switch? crossing gates, drawbridge operation, etc. etc. then there would be no need for electricity at all. When you think about it, a remote automatic coupler in real life would save millions of dollars in making up trains, oh well, off to Mars.
Sounds like you’re a convert to 5-DCC! Did you get the optional sound module? Very good cost savings - just buy dummy locos, much cheaper than buying powered ones and removing the motors.
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tatans, It is 12:07 at night and I just read your last reply. I thought I would die. It just struck me so funny. Thanks for the laugh. Good night to all. I’ll check in tomorrow.