The 11 Myths of Model Railroading - Myth #6

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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The 11 Myths of Model Railroading

#1 – Zero maintenance layout (2200 sq ft layout) – You can’t maintain a large layout by yourself
#2 – DCC 8 amp boosters and welding engine wheels of the engine derails
#3 – Track Cleaning – Never again!
#4 – Reverse Loops – Using a toggle switch with DCC
#5 – Not removing ties on flex track
#6 – IDC connectors - 3M scotch locks/Suitcase connectors for track wiring-NEVER
#7 - The Rolling Stock Truck Tuner tool & why do you need one
#8 – Soldering Track Joints
#9 – Homasote Expansion vs Wood
#10 – DCC and you have to modify the turnouts – YOU DON”T
#11 – Homasote Cost – making a mess when cutting – You Don’t have to make dust when cutting

PLW the MRR Myth Busters – #6 - The Myth is:

You do not need to solder your track wires (Using IDC Connectors)

Only if you want to have problems with your electrical system later on!

The IDC connectors will work for a while but in an environment where moisture and humidity is high (basements – garages) they begin to cause problems.

We used them on our club Lionel display (located in an old basement) and had the trackwork up for almost 10 years. We had use #12 stranded buss wires and #12 drop wires. The track we used was Gargraves and most of the #12 drop wires were soldered to the rails. The IDC connectors were used to connect the drops to the buss wires. We had the proper Scotckloc connector for #12 wire and they worked well for 5 years.

We then began to notice that the trains would slow down on certain sections of track and were not sure why. An inspection of the wiring showed nothing wrong and in the process of checking the wiring the problems seemed to go away. While this was OK it did not really explain why the problems even showed up.

Then a different section of track began giving problems. We had the layout set up blocks using industrial toggle switches and it wa

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I only trust hard solder on electrical connections anything else is taking a chance.

Just a thought
Harold

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I’m not sure that this rule holds true across all situations. First off, many home layouts don’t last 5 years do to moves and restarts. If IDCs will work for 5 years or so, by the time the problems show up, the layout may have ceased to exist. And for many hobbyists, this could be anticipated (for example, I expect to move within 5 years to a larger house).

Second, using IDCs is faster than soldering wire and covering with shrink wrap tubing. Neither takes a lot of time but I would venture that IDCs take probably half the time as soldering. If you leave yourself some extra overlapping wire, you could, after 5 years, just slap on a new set of IDCs. If using IDCs is about twice as fast as soldering, this would extend the breakeven point between the two methods to more like 10 years, which is a very long time for a layout to last for most people.

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The biggest problem is the IDCs not being installed properly.

We had this problem until only one member was allowed to do it!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

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Bob, this one I agree with you on! I still only use soldered or other strong mechanical connections. I never have electrical problems on the layout. OTOH, I also know how to solder and enjoy doing it. Whenever possible, I like to do the soldering at my workbench and then bring the it to layout. I also use terminal strips rather than suitcase connectors. Here again, to each their own. I do as I want on my layout. For those suitcase connector gurus out there… Its your layout do it any way you want! [:D]

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I have used IDC/Suit Case connectors for over five years and never had any problems. I would agree that the problem with IDCs is not installing them correctly. I use DCC and run 18ga jumpers every six feet (between two sections of 3ft flex track). I have a 12 ga buss. By using IDCs each power district uses a pair of uncut buss wires directly from the power source; no junctions or terminal strips.

JIM

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If you have any dealer installed electrical items on your car or truck, scotch lox are how they are installed. Whether it’s under the hood or in the passenger compartment. I’ve installed auto A/C systerms for years and nearly all the connections are made with scotch lox. I agree about the moisture and contamination concerns, but nonetheless, in the automotive world, scotch lox have been around better than 25 years. I would certainly think that on a layout that in the house where it’s climate controlled, they would be ok. That said, I also hard solder all my connections.

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So what you are saying is that by declaring that “You do not need to solder your track wires,” is a “myth”, you are saying that you have to solder your track wires.

Soldering is not 100% sure, either. Cold solder joints are certainly possible if you don’t know what you are doing…just like bad IDC’s are likely if you don’t know what you’re doing.

There are also the “screw down” type connectors (I forgot what they are called) that are supposed to be a much improved IDC connector (E-Z Taps? Something like that…).

Then there are those who use terminal strips. Should they have to solder their connections, too?

IMHO, IDC connectors should not be used in any kind of moving layout, as the vibration of moving it around in a car, truck, or trailer, not to mention picking it up, setting it down, etc., all work against their long term effectiveness.

Also, high humidity layout locatons (where you literally have water in the basement…sump pumps, etc.) are really taking a chance on IDC’s. I’m not saying that it’s impossible to use 'em, but high humidity also tends to lessen the IDC’s long term effectiveness.

For example, my club has used several hundred of them for over 5 years now, and we haven’t had too many problems (mostly, they were due to someone using the wrong gauge wire on the track feeders). But then our club has A/C and two industrial dehumidifiers, so the temperature and the humidity don’t vary that much…compared to typical New England weather, that is. [:D]

Paul A. Cutler III

Weather Or No Go New Haven

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I’ve seen plenty of successful uses of IDC connectors (heck, my Dad used them to hook up the brake controller for our camping trailer, and we never had a failure of the braking system even though these connectors were under the hood of a car which I would hope is a harsher environment that our railroad rooms), but I’m still a strong proponent of soldering. Soldering bus and feeder wires is something anyone is capable of, even those who melt 10 feet of track if they try to solder on a feeder wire.
I terminate my bus wires with spade terminals and screw them to a terminal strip. But I do not rely on just the crimp for those connectors, either. I solder those as well. Crazy? Maybe. But it works and will NOT pull out.

–Randy

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I use IDC connectors on my layout for the drop wires from the main buss. They have worked flawlessly for years. I use them because they are easy to install not because I do not know how to solder. I have been soldering for about 60 years.
I used them on tow hitches behind my motor home for many years without a single failure.

I think people that have problems with these connectors probably would have problems with any other method. They are probably a little sloppy and do not take the time to install them properly.

I currently live in a low humidity area year round, but I also used them when I lived in high humidity areas such as PA and VA.

Just my take on this subject.

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I guess I’m lazy. I just curl the wire into a partial loop and put it under the screw head on my terminal strips.

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I’ve used regular IDC connectors and the sealed automotive connectors. I always ended up having problems with the regular connectors. The sealed connectors do much better but also develop problems where low voltage (less than 6 volts) and low amperage are concerned. I stopped using connectors and go with straight solder now. I haven’t had any more problems.

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OK, here’s my question. If I choose one day to take this advice and solder all my feeder wires to the bus wires, what is the best way to strip only a short (1/2") length of insulation from the middle of the bus wire at each location where I want to solder a feeder? Is there a special tool that will do this or will I have to cut it away with a hobby knife?

Tom

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I do both, and I don’t have any problems with any way I do it. On one layout they are soldered and on my new layout they are connecters, and both work great.

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potlatcher

They make a regular wire stripping tool (available at Lowes – Home Depot) that will slide right over the side of the wire.

When you squeeze the handles of the stripper it will clamp the wire insulation and then pull the insulation apart.

I then strip about an inch of the drop wire and wrap it around the buss wire and solder it. The heat from the soldering then makes the insulation come back together. This way I do not have to wrap tape or other wise insulate the buss/drop wire connection.

My buss wires are taped together about every foot when I make my buss line and I just pull it under the layout directly under the track and then using wire holders clamp it to the underside of the layout. When I strip the buss wire I offset the places I strip by an inch to 2 inches so that the stripped buss wires will not be able to touch each other.

BOB H – Clarion, PA

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If you want to hear some interesting language, say, “Intermittent open circuit,” to an electrician.

Granted, there is no such thing as a 100% failure-proof way to install electrical circuits. After all, we’ve only been using electricity for less than two centuries, and most of our circuits are of recent construction.

That said, I will trust a properly made solder joint far more than one made with a clip-on mechanical device. I will also trust a joint where the wire (or a stake-on, if the wire isn’t solid) is clamped down by a threaded fastener - almost as good as solder, and can be opened for test or modification.

I solder to rails and switch machines, and use terminal strips everywhere else. Once installed, my electrical work is bulletproof.

As an added bonus, I put all those terminal strips along the aisle edge of the layout. No under-the-layout excursions to do electrical work!

Chuck

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Wire nuts.

Yes, you may say I’m nuts, although they’re rarely mentioned in anything having to do with model railroading, I tend to rely on cheap, easily available, reliable and reusable wire nuts.

They come in different sizes.

I can easily make adjustments later.

They have been very reliable connectors.

I wonder why more people don’t use them.

I do still use terminal strips, screw terminals available on the backs of some electrical switches, and soldering in certain applications, but most of my wiring now relies on wire nuts. All connections to the rails are soldered and each section of track gets its own feeders.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL

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[#ditto]

I use wire nuts extensively. I also use IDC’s, but make sure you get the good ones from an electrial supply or auto parts store. Not the cheapies from HD.

Nick

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I had so much trouble finding IDCs in the first place I gave up and went with soldering my feeders to my bus wires and am glad I did. I use stranded feeders and wrap them around the bus approx. 20 times and then solder the whole length of that connection. Lots of solder, but lots of reliability. This along with Myth #8 makes me wonder if this is less myth-busting and more fear of soldering???

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I don’t see how this is a myth.

Connections is where things fail - whether it be mechanical, electrical, whatever.

I’m not sure what the myth is. Of course the connection is where there will be a failure.

A good solder joint conducts more reliably and longer than a connector.

I’m puzzled as to what the myth is here.[?]