As you can tell by my heading in the subject box I’m new to the Garden Railroad scene.I have scene a couple of track layouts that came with my L.G.B. starter train set.Layout #14 in the "add to your starter train set track plans"has a cross over point of 20mm on both sides of the track plan there are two passing sidings on each straight track sections located on each side of the wide loop. I’m assuming that these switch tracks are incorperated in the grades either going up or coming down from the 20mm top cross over tack height.There is another half circle passing siding in the top area of the 20mm cross over area.The 20mm half circle passing siding is flat and not on a grade.
I need advice on the do’s n don’ts on using switch tracks on a grade of about 3% to 3 1/2%.
I always thought that in order to use switch tracks that they had to be used on a flat surface only.Not on any type of grade. If I were to try this layout with the switch tracks being used on a grade.How many feet will I have to keep the switch track area part of the track level before it goes on climing to get to the 20mm cross over height?
Also, how long would I have to keep the other side of the switched track line that curves off the main line level in order to go in another direction.How many feet of track must I use before the grade on this side of the switch track can either climb or descend ?
I can speak with some authority on this subject, as i have done just what you want to do; however i have used 16000 series LGB points (switches), which are pretty good quality.
I have a curve as close as 200 mm (8") and this is different when it comes to facing, trailing straight and trailing divert. On the divert section you are in a curved state anyway; I have immediately changed my curve when leading out from divert.
With regard to on a gradient i have 3 points operating quite succesfully for a few years on a 4 % gradient. 2 of these are facing on the upward grade and 1 is trailing. 2 of them are part of a crossover situatiuon and they are all close together, so it isn’t an easy situation at all.
The important thing with all points and particularly if they are on a grade, is the camber ie the degree of levelness from side to side, not just of the points themselves but the track leading into them particlarly from a trailing directiuon.
The idea of putting points on a slope has always been a big no no, but the people who talk in this direction have probably never done it ie old wives tales.
The switches can be mounted on a grade (i.e., not level) but they do have to be set so that the switch is flat (i.e., all in the same plane.) I generally try to keep all tracks leading into and out of a switch on the same plane for at least 12" in all directions. After that, the track can rise or fall as necessary. The one to really make sure is flat is the divergent route, as that has the greatest tendency to want to twist to one side or the other as the grade changes. Twists on straight track–while not good practice–aren’t as prone to derailments because the rails still stay beneath the wheels. If the track is curving under the car while twisting, there’s a greater chance of the wheels climbing over the rails as they want to continue straight.
I’m also not a huge fan of switches coming right out of curves, though sometimes it is unavoidable. Just know that when heading into these points that the flanges will be forced to the outside of the curve, and will look for any excuse to climb over the outside point. Filing a taper on the end of that point will mitigate this problem, but you may also want to install a guard rail on the inside rail leading up to the points to pull the flanges away from the outside rail.
I agree with the others that it is best to have the switch in one plane, whether the switch itself is level or on a grade. However, it is possible to have the tracks arriving from two different angles. In the old below pic, the grade from the station to the switch is about 4%. As you can see, the grade from the track approaching on the left is much less. I very seldom had a derail from either direction on this switch. Incidentally, this switch was replaced when I installed concrete roadbed with double track around the layout.
Message:
Hi, Thanks for your help on my using switch tracks on a grade question.You mentioned that you used cement for railroad beds.How did you keep the track from sliding around on the cement.Also can a cement railroad bed be used on grades up to 4%? I know that it’s not good to fasten the track to the road bed due to the track expanding and shrinking.So how would I use cement for road beds while climbing and desending grades? Thanks Again, Choo Choo Rick "
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Rick,
For details on the concrete / ladder roadbed I built, please look at the first two links below. After pouring the roadbed and before placing the track, all screws between ties and track are removed. This facilitates expansion/contraction. The ties are then anchored to the concrete/ladder with concrete or fencing screws, about every 18in to 2ft.
The West end loop is approximately a 3% grade. It was done in two pours, doing the bottom half first. Twenty four hours later, the top half of the grade was poured. That way, I didn’t get sag on the grade. I also added dark brown dye to the concrete mix. On my layout, I have a variety of roadbeds: piled gravel, concrete, ladder, slate tile, piled gravel w/mortor washed in, TREX/plastic wood.
In addition to the first two links, I provided additional links that might be of interest to you.
Rick
On my insane layout I’m planning that any switches on grade will be done by maintaining all switches on the ruling grade and then using verticaly curved easement tracks to bring the sidings back to level. By keeping to the ruling grade guarentees the best performance by allowing my rolling stock the least continuity impeedment that otherwise would be the case if I graded up to an easement to a level switch and then back into another easement back to grade. Not to mention easementing to a level switch then back to grade will really stretch out the lenth of track you’ll end up needing. thought about a cocrete subbed but I think it might be a bit of overkill given all the stone retaining walls I’ll end up with.
