My layout table measure approximately 7’x13’ . The framework is composed primarily of 2x4’s. The table top is plywood, actual thickness is 11/16ths. I put down some track and ran one of my steam engines to learn what can be done with TMCC. Very noisy. The plywood acts as a sounding board. What is the concensus in using 1/2" Homosote over the plywood with Midwest cork roadbed. Tihis is my first effort in O-Scale.
I have used it on all my layouts & my Dad used it on a 4x8 layout even back in the 1950’s. What a difference it makes & if you use cork roadbed, it should be even quieter. You can hear your sounds of the engs. better. Though a lot of the guys here now use foam board. Here’s an example. Hope this helps, John
Relatively speaking Homasote is over priced and over rated for 3 rail trains. Homasote is most useful when hand laying track, because of it’s ability to hold spikes. Very few 3 railers hand lay track. There are other products that will help with sound deadening that are cheaper and easier to find, including foam (already mentioned), and Built-rite.
Built-rite is just one brand name for that brown stuff applied to the exterior framing of some homes. It is less dense, but equally effective as a sound deadener, at less than half the price.
Keep in mind, there will always be some noise that won’t go away. This is due to the fact that the rails are hollow. As far as I know, only Atlas and MTH’s Realtrax have solid rails.
This is Built-rite. Earlier this evening I tried rolling a car over foam roadbed, homasote roadbed, and Built-rite roadbed. Built-rite was the quietest of the 3.
Homasote will make a world of difference when it comes to reducing noise. Good stuff that has been used by model railroaders for a great many years. I use two-inch-thick Extruded Polystyrene (Styrofoam) myself these days because I like to carve and shape things for scenery building (I glue my roadbed and ballast my track), but if that wasn’t available I would certainly go back to Homasote.
Is the pressed paper ceiling tiles the same as homosote? I’ve got a bunch of left over 2x4 ceiling tiles and I was thinking of using the ceiling tiles on top of my plywood for sound deading. What do you think?
Thanks
Jim
No Jim, that’s something else again. Which kind of ceiling tiles are you talking about, the 1 foot squares or the ones used with suspended ceilings. Even those 2 products are slightly different materials, but both are designed to absorb sound. Homasote is denser than that. That density may actually work slightly against in terms of noise reduction, though it is certainly better than bare plywood.
Having used the 2x4 ceiling tiles in place of Homasote, and ultimately regretting it, go with the homasote or the extruded foam. The tiles are good for sound absorption, but horrible for holding screws,nails, or any other pointy objects. I ended up gluing my track down to the foam roadbed. When I rebuild my layout, I’ll be using the extruded foam as the base, and may use homasote for sub roadbed-- I haven’t made up my mind on using it,as 1 4x8 sheet costs 28$(without cuts@1$ per cut!)
You’re right, that is a drawback to the less dense products, including the Built-rite I mentioned earlier. The answer is to use fasteners long enough to reach the plywood below. If you plan to use only foam, consider gluing your track down.
Wouldn’t it be better to glue the track in place regardless of what is used for the roadbed and sub-roadbed. If metal fasteners are used don’t they act as a sound conductor, especially with the traditional tubular track with the metal ties, thus defeating some of the effects of the sound deadeners. [?]
Actually, it’s better to “glue” the track in place with ballast than it is to glue it in place by applying glue to the track itself. Glued ballast holds the track in place, and no screws or other devices are needed. And, you can remove and re-use the ballasted track simply by soaking the ballast with hot water to loosen it; then gently pry up the track.
Thanks for the replys, been away for a few days and nable to respond. Your guidence has convienced me to not use the tiles on top of the pywood. I will be using vinylbed to deaden the sound and go from there.
Thanks agian
Jim
What kind of track are you using? Tinplate, Atlas O, Gargraves? On my tinplate layout, I laminated homasote over plywood and it did not help much. I ended up putting cork roadbed over it. The homasote was a waste of money although it holds the track screws preventing them from transmitting noise like they would if into the plywood.
Sound waves …absorb them or let them cancel each other and you knock down the noise. When the sound wave passes from one material to a different material there is a reflection that can cancel part of the sound wave. (Frequency and amplitude also are factors.) Tiled ceilings absorb sound, concrete floors do not.
So my recomendations are:
Use a sandwich construction for the table top.
Put a skirt around the table, the heavier the better.
Would using a rubber washer between the screw and the metal tie on tubular track reduce the noise which seems to travel from the track, through the screw to the plywood?
Foamboard, i believe, is the insullation used on the walls of houses. If there are any new houses just begining to be built in your area see if they have some in the trash pile, if a sheet breaks it is useless for them. It comes in 4x4, 2x8, and other common sizes. It is the same material Stryofoam is made out of but much smoother, it is not made of little balls. Look in the building supplies of your local Home Depot or hardware store. Around here it costs about $20 a 4x8 sheet. The thickness varies, but I think standard is 2".
I am an HO railroader and I use a base of foam board, on top of a sheet of plywood, then using a jig saw I angle cut some Homosote as roadbed. My layout is quite as a dream. Homosote is a little tall for HO, think it would work perfect O. Even if you don’t use foamboard it would deaden the sound and would be a lot cheaper than doing a whole layout on it.
Boonter, if I remember correctly aren’t you from California? If so the foam board may be difficult for you to find. I have heard that Home Depots in that area don’t carry it.
It is often used to insulate foundations where moisture is an issue. California construction style doesn’t usually call for something like this. I believe it comes in thicknesses starting at 1/2" and going up in 1/2" increments to at least 2". Here in the northland, it runs about $5 - $6 per 1/2" thickness.
It comes in pink and blue, but not for boys and girls.[:o)][;)] Owens Corning is pink, and Dow is blue, but both are the same stuff.