I was planing to have a right & a left turnout together off my main line, the right going into a passing siding, and the left going to a car ferry dock. Or should I use a 3 way turnout? I have the space for ether way, but I am looking for opinions of what would look more realistic. Also while I’m on the subject; Does the three way turnout need two switch machines?
Tha answer to your second question is “Yes” a three way turnout needs two switch machines. It is really two turnouts just squeezed together linearly.
My two cents worth would be to use two turnouts since you have the room. I have no statistical evidence but I believe you would have fewer problems that way. On the other hand I have operated on layouts with three way turnouts and, as long as one pays attention to what one doing, they work.
Following up on Roger’s reply, as he said, the 3-way turnout requires two switch machines. For several reasons, I agree with Roger in that two turnouts might be preferred to the 3-way turnout.
I have three 3-way turnouts, end to end, on my layout to deal with a special situation where the main track exits the passenger station and then feeds into the coach yard and parallel main lines. But, the 3-way turnout takes up more space because of the angles of the divergent tracks, the point rails are more finicky, and the routes are more prone to operator error.
Since you won’t be able to get by with one switch machine, I would recommend that you opt for the right hand and left hand turnouts.
A #6 switch should be a #6 switch. If you have a #6 3-way switch the tracks should diverge at the same angle as a regular #6 switch, A #6 3-way switch would be as “wide” as a left and right hand switches in parallel. The 3-way switch will be about 1 1/2 times as long as a regular switch, but shorter than 2 regular switches. Because the switches overlap (3 way switches are also called “lap” switches) there is a bit less room for the mechanisms. Because operators think of it as one switch, instead of two switches, they are more likely to be confused when operating it, as Rich says.
The prototype uses 3 ways switches in yards and other places where spaces are cramped. Since they involve additional frogs and guardrails, they are more expensive to build and maintain, the prototype tries to avoid them. In some places shallow angle crossings are being replaced with two switches because of the ease of maintenance over a diamond.
But, it appears to me that even though the #6 3-way switch tracks diverge at the same angle as two #6 turnouts, they are not parallel like a right hand and left turn turnout. At least, that seems to be the case with the Walthers Shinohara 3-way turnout. That center track seems to curve a little from one end to the other.
If the center track of a commercial 3-way switch seems to wiggle, it wasn’t designed/assembled to spec.
Of course, the center tracks of my three-ways all curve left. It’s the right hand track that’s straight…
That said, the prototype railroads, operating on the KISS principle, would prefer two standard turnouts to one three-way. One less frog and four less rail joints to contend with. Also, that ‘middle’ frog isn’t of much use when the three way gets pulled up (It’s about a #3.)
Which doesn’t mean there aren’t uses for three way switches. There was one in Rapid City, SD, which replaced a turntable (!) Each tail track ran into one stall of the three stall roundhouse. (The roundhouse is still there, but I couldn’t tell if the rails were still in place.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with exotic handlaid specialwork)
Thanks guys, I appreciate the quick responses. So it looks like my best bet is to go with a left and a right #6 turnouts together rather then the three way. I do have enough space for a #6 right T. O. to the passing siding, but I will need a #6 left hand curved turnout at about 5’ up the main line into a curve. Should the left hand turnout to the ferry dock be placed in front of the right, or should the right be in front of the left?
Do you REALLY have the space, to get all three tracks parallel without a too-sharp curve if you use two normal turnouts instead of the 3-way? The 3-way will save a good bit of space and give more room to get the tracks parallel. Or maybe on the point side, using the shorter 3-way amy allow your lead track to be longer for more storage.
Fast Tracks has a #6 three-way printable turnout template on their website at www.handlaidtrack.com They have many other accurate templates that are great for checking what track configurations will work, or not work. Appears there are some #6 Fast Track jig built three-way turnouts for sale on eBay.
Good morning guys, Randy, your right, now that I took Peter’s advice I printed out a 3 way from Fast Tracks and it does save a lot of space. Frank, I’m not sure how a Wye would work, I think that might be an option. Rich, if I was to go with the 3 way, which brand would you suggest.
I went down this morning and quickly put this together so I can take a picture. maybe this will help you all understand better as what I want to do. The right will be a passing siding, the left will head to the car ferry float. I didn’t want to mark my center lines yet, so I just did this as a quick reference,
The only commercial 3 ways I know of are Walthers/Shinohara and Peco. BK(Trout Creek Engineering), Railway Engineering, Litco, Cream City, and others will custom make what you want. Or if you want to try laying your own, I would suggest starting with 2 closely spaced single turnouts rather than a 3 way for your first attempt at hand laid.
I have a question for you,that car ferry you mentioned,that will be for railroad use?? If it is how many tracks are on it??You may need two tracks,to service it,Where the orange stick pin in the road bed,would be a good place to put a wye…A wye will give you,two parallel tracks to the ferry…Unless of course,you are always going to load an empty ferry and not have to take anything off of it,before you load it…Get My Point??
To answer your question, yes the car float will be for railroad freight car use. It will have two deck mounted tracks. It will only be long enough to hold three 50’ box cars on each track. I will have to scratch build the car float so I’m sure it will fit in my harbor. I do intend to ad a wey somewhere near where you said, but I was thinking a little more closer to the blue stick pin. But I work slow and I’m still trying to decide on a 3 way or left & right turnouts. I guess what I’m looking for is, what ever will give me the least amount of problems down the road.
I installed a Walthers Shinohara HO code 83 DCC friendly #6 3-way and it did have one quirk that “Middleman” pointed out in the attached thread; i.e., one teeny piece of track tended to get hit by wheel flanges when the route was another way, causing a short. Mine suffered the same symptom. I believe Middleman de-powered his piece, whereas I painted the offending edge with some clear nail polish to address it. Don’t know whether to blame the track or the loco flanges vs standards but it’s something to be aware of. Not saying don’t but this one, just be aware of a quirk to address. I would go the same route again as the item fit my layout desires.