Ok I just order 50+ pieces of cork the other day and they are the way here 
I’m wondering if there are any tips or tricks to laying cork down, I already of the track down and setup. What is best way to attach the track to the cork.
I use microengineering medium rail spikes. They’re not cheap, about 10 or 11 dollars for a bag.
I fasten the cork roadbed with Elmer’s white glue or a thin layer of latex caulking and weight it down until the glue or caulk sets (about 2 hours). Then I fasten the track with a thin layer of latex caulking and weight it down until that caulk sets.
With the rail spikes you can re-position or take up the track entirely if you don’t like the way it fits. Its also INSTANT. No waiting. I’ve not tried the glue method. I’d like to try it sometime though.
I used a staple gun to lay the cork and then Elmers glue to hold the track to the cork. I also used rail spikes to hold the track down until it dries, then removed the spikes. Remember that once the ballasting is done and dry, it will add a lot to holding the track in place. I tried the latex caulk method and had to reposition some track and when removing the track it was destroyed. using the Elmers glue method all you have to do is soak it with wet water and let it set a few minutes and it will come up very easily. I try not to use anything that is not water solible (SP) on the layout. Of course on the down fall, if your layout should ever become wet, it will fall apart. Mike
So I’m thinking elmers glue for the roadbed, and spikes for the track.
Many of us use cheap acylic latex caulking for adhering the track to the foam or cork. The trick is to use as little as you can get away with so that if you change your mind, or when you dismantle, you can be assured of salvaging quite a bit, or all, of your track sections. Also, I use nails sometimes. If not by themselves, I use them to hold the rail sections until the caulk dries, and then I remove them before I ballast and weather.
Elmers glue is sounding good for both. Now that I know it can come up rather easily.
Make sure you sand the shoulders smooth before you lay the track down. I bought some 1’ squares of cork at Wally World to cut my own turnout pads from.
Don’t worry I’m getting the precut cork for the track.
I meant even the Mid West cork product needs the shoulders sanded smooth. Otherwise it will give you fits when you ballast.
Here is my experience. If gluing cork to wood, use wood glue, not white glue, to glue down cork. It will hold much better. use pins or spikes to temporarilly hold it in place until the glue dries. Then use cheap latex adhesive caulk to glue flextrack to cork. Lay it in a small bead, then spread it very thin with a putty knife before laying track. On turnouts, be careful not to put any adhesive under the moving switch parts or you will have a big problem tomorrow. I use rail nails to hold track in place while caulk sets, then remove them carefully the next day. If laying track on foam your adhesives will change. Liquid nails for projects works well for gluing cork to foam and will not attack the foam.
Ron
I’m at that stage on my layout now. I originally did it using all tiny brad nails for the cork, and Atlas track nails for the Atlas code 83 track.
Now I’m re-doing the whole layout, and I’m glad I used only nails the first time! [:)] Hopefully this will be the last time, because I’m using all latex caulk now.
I attached the cork directly to my plywood layout surface using cheap clear latex caulk from Wally World (Alex brand, I think?). To keep the cork in position while the caulk dried, I temporarily nailed it down with teeny-tiny wire nails (also available at Wally World or any hardware store - they come in small blister packs for a couple of bucks a pack). After it dried, I pulled the nails, and ran a sanding block over the cork to smooth and level the top surface, and to take the sharp edge off the shoulder. Then I attached the track to the cork using the same caulk, temporarily holding it in position with map push pins. Except the turnouts, which I didn’t caulk at all, but secured in place with Atlas track nails. That way, they’re easier to remove if there’s a problem before ballasting, which I don’t plan to do for a good while.
I used a cheap laytex caulk to attach cork to homosote. I was able to use push pins to hold the curved portions down which was a BIG help. Since I’m in O using Gargraves I just used wood screws through ties at a minimum of locations. Once I got the loops and straight tracks connected nothing was moving around very much. After dismantling my HO layout I don’t worry about saving ballasted track. None of mine came up in any reusable condition.
I used caulk. I applied it, then spread it with a putty knife.