I picked up a box of ho diecast vehicles that are in various conditions. Some almost new while some are really scratched up.
Some I’d like to repaint as UP mow vehicles while others I’d just like to get the scratches out.
So I’d appreciate any advice on prepping the diecast for it’s new color
Thanks in advance
Derek
Hello Derek,
(can you post some photos?)
I’ve had experience in this and the good news is that it’s easy and there are several approaches you can use.
I’m often the first to recommend paint stripping when refinishing models. However, I’ve found that if a diecast vehicle’s paint surface is smooth, it can be degreased and cleaned properly, wet-sanded with a Scotch Pad, refinished with solvent or water based paint products, and sealed with clear.
Of course if the vehicle’s surface color will visually “bleed through” the color that I’m going to apply over it (ie: white topcoat over a green surface) I seal the surface it with a primer.
Here is the Scotch Pad I use: http://www.repaintsupply.com/images/products/26327.jpg
If the model(s) has significant damages to the surface, just repair or featheredge as on a styrene model.
Here’s a diecast car shell that I’ve worked on/off for a while. Being repainted from a solid orange to a candy gold-orange appearance. I plan to have it finished by this summer and post a thread on it.
Before:
After/Ongoing:
Thanks for the reply Antonio, I’ve been an admirer of your painting skills. The vehicles that I’d like to repaint as UP mow look almost new. The paint on the diecast is smooth. I was hoping not to strip so I will take your suggestions.
There is one black crown Victoria that’s in tough shape and I’d like to repaint white for transit police. What would be the best way to strip.
I’ve painted lots of plastic in the past and this is my first try at diecast
Thanks again Derek
Depending on the paint, stripper could be anything from rubbing alcohol, to harsher chemical strippers. If it is true die cast metal, a nylon brush in a motor tool on the lowest speed might help with paint removal without scratching the models detail. Just remember to not soak the model in a harsh chemical if any plastic parts are still on it, unless you are modeling a junk car, where melted plastic details will not be an issue.
As a side note, on die cast car models, try using touch up bottles made for real cars to fix chips and scratches… I’ve actually painted an entire HO scale car with a touch up bottle that was the incorrect color for my real car, and instead of tossing it out, just repainted an off color car model with it… Because they are real car colors they look pretty realistic! And, not that expensive either… Especially if you find them clearance priced. [:D]
The only problem I find with repainting the lower-cost diecast vehicles is you can lose some of the nice printing of the make badges, trim pieces, and even worse, on Boley/Scenic trucks and some MP cars, the grill work. I’m going to attempt to mask off the grill printing on some Boley trucks that need repaint, and sand down the crappier parts of the factory paint job (always some bubbles and blobs) - normally I’d strip the usually too-thick paint off, but I’d hate to loose that grillwork as my previous attempts to generate grill decals have been less than successful.
With the black crown vic that I’d like to repaint white, I think I’m safe stripping. The body is held to the chassis by two small screws so I can separate the diecast from the plastic parts plus no decals to ruin. The only reason I’m considering stripping this model is that I want to go from black to white. The others can be repainted using Antonio’s advice.
Derek
Derek,
For cast metal, white metal and Pewter, I use lacquer thinner.
For all plastic’s, I use Denatured alcohol…will not harm plastic’s.
Depending on color I want to use…I use white solvent primer, my go to is Floquil reefer white, which I have a lot of, thinned with lacquer thinner and light grey primer Model Master, thinned with their thinner, all solvent based paints…I don’t like using Acrylic’s with models that will be handled much. Some pic’s of different results. Cast metal, Pewter, Plastic and Polyurethane resign models all finished how I explained above.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Thanks Frank for the advice.
I’ve painted plenty of plastic but never diecast.
Just be sure to remove ALL plastic parts when using lacquer thinner. It will dissolve plastic. Also good ventillation is a must, the fumes from that stuff are nasty. I use it in my spray booth.
I have also used a wire brush in my Dremel to remove really tough paints. Use a low speed, those wire brushes are not rated for the higher RPMs. You will get wire bristles flying everywhere, like in your face.
Those Yellow & Blue R190 International trucks are CMW cast metal and I drill the rivet out, take them completely apart and soak them in a glass jar of lacquer thinner for a couple of days, I believe those models have the paint baked on and it is tough to get off. I use a dental pick to remove any paint from door, grill detail and never had to use a wire wheel, at least not for stripping paint. You don’t smell the lacquer thinner at all when used that way. When I painted full size car’s and trucks’s, now that’s a different story. Full respirator and throw away paper cover-all’s…yes…paper.
Have a Good One! [:D]
Frank
I’ve done a lot of diecast vehicle repainting for my large scale (G scale) layout. But you can apply the same procedures I use on these bigger models to smaller scales too.
To strip factory paint from diecast models I’ve found that nothing works as well as Klean-Strip Aircaft Paint Remover. As mentioned in other posts here, be sure to remove any plastic parts before using any paint removers as they will melt the plastic. Also use gloves as this stuff burns if it gets on your skin.
Working outdoors, I apply the paint remover to the diecast car with a brush, let it sit for a few minutes, and then rinse with a garden hose. If there are some trouble spots I just apply more and rinse again. You can immerse the entire diecast car in a tub of the paint remover when working in smaller scales.
I like to wash the metal parts thoroughly before painting. Liquid dish detergent works well and doesn’t leave a residue.
I tend to use rattle can sprays for painting. Mostly Krylon. Gloss paints work well for vehicles. Sometimes I’ll use a wet sandable primer first if the metal surface is a bit rough. I use 600 and finer grit sand paper to smooth out the primed metal. It’s similar to painting a real car.
Here are some of the vehicles I’ve repainted: The tractors show what they looked like before any paint removing and after painting. And the fuel truck shows fully stripped and after painting.
Thanks guys for all the excellent advice.
As I mentioned before it’s my first time painting diecast. Some things in this hobby can be a bit tricky the first time you try it . It’s nice to have a place to ask a question and gain inspiration and confidence from the pictures and responses.
Derek
Derek,
You got some very good suggestions from the crew. Please let us know how things go with your diecast cars and post photos.
ZStripe: Wow; those trucks look sharp! Excellent work. Your photos are a motivating for me as I’m looking for trucks that would fit in a 1960s-70s era layout.
Southwest Chief: Also beautiful works of art!
