I’ve got a few older model steam engines that have very bright side rods valve gear etc. Newer models look a lot better with all of that stuff and in many cases the wheels blackened. I’ve tried a ploduct called "Blacken It’ that I got from a local dealer. The results left a lot to be desired (spoltchy and not very black)!
Does anybody have any experience with something that actually does what it is supposed to?
Dave
a light coat of floquil’s “grimy black” applied with an air brush
There are some machine products called tool black that work well. Also gun dealers sell gun blue and gun black kits. Micro Engineering sells a blackening type of product for their rails and Micro Mark tools sells a product for wheels and valve gear that blackens and is a lubricant that conducts electricity.(I think they all conduct electricity)
Only if it’s fish…and you’re Cajun…
Tom
Blackening agents don’t work well unless you completely degrease the surface and let the metal “pickle” for awhile. That means disassembling the engine, cleaning the metal thoroughly, possibly distressing the surface with a micro sandblaster, and THEN using the blackening agent. If you just try to add the blackener to the assembled and still oily engine, you’ll get a horrible finish. And most bluing or blackening agents will still leave a slightly shiny surface.
Real siderods were usually unpainted steel. that coupled to the pain in the butt process to properly blacken the rods means that it’s usually best to just airbrush some grime onto the model.
Gun cold-blue kits aren’t that effective. THe intstructions say apply, and gun should blue instantly…if necessary apply again for darker color. My cousin and I did a .22 rifle, and after 27 applications, it finally took. We didn’t risk trying another to get a darker finish.
Greg
MicroMark sells this stuff. I used it on my 4-12-2 I just painted. It will blacken wheels or anything else it touches in seconds, no smearing, blobs, runs, ect. Now like said above it DOES conduct electricity. So just painting your rods will be fine. But doing the whole wheels without be very carefull will be a real problem. I highly recommend this stuff. Here’s a link below.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83181
I use a product by Birchwood Casey, available at gun shops, called Brass Black. Works great on brass, nickle silver, copper, steel,and Zamac (die-cast). Parts to be blackened must be free of oils and grease - I use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Don’t use rubbing alcohol - it contains glycerine, which will remain on the model. Brass black turns nickle silver an deep blue-black, whichn when buffed, comes out a very nice darkened steel color. Zamac comes out a brownish black, which is great for pre-blackening the frames of your diecast loco.
This product, as with most brass blackeners, contains selenium dioxide, which it poisonous - don’t use it as a quick afternoon pickmeup. ;[:D]
Birchwood Casey makes a whole line of metal blackeners, including Aluminum Black.
Then there’s the old fashioned way of running it through an open flame… A nice hot candle works fine… I’ve done it myself for grab irons to get a worn once-painted black look. Use a pair of plyers to hold the part (you’ll have to remove it from the engine).
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Originally posted by orsonroy
Blackening agents don’t work well unless you completely degrease the surface and let the metal “pickle” for awhile.
A magnifying visor, acetone, Q-Tips, masking tape, patience, and time will accompli***he same. Acetone is suuu-perr for cleaning and prepping surfaces for painting. Of course, be wary of safety and the plastics.
The item you are trying to blacken has to want to be blackened too. The blackening is a result of a chemical change on the surface and stainless steel and nickel silver and such do not really want to react very well.