I am unfamiliar with this manufacturer who’s models were imported into Canada and the US by Pacific Fast Mail.
I am familiar with many of the other models imported by PFM such as United and those of Van Hobbies.
Is anyone familiar with this manufacture?. The model of a CN 4-8-4 is very well finished, it has the old open frame motor.
The engine is quite heavy, pulls well and after I replaced the magnets on the motor is only drawing .60 Amps. I was going to replace the motor with a can motor but that seems unnecesssary now. It has very good slow speed response.
I found TOBY to be of superior quality to United, or other PFM builders. The most famous, IMHO, TOBY model was of the FRISCO 1500, 4-8-2. Released in the mid '60’s it demanded the exorbitant price of around $75 full retail then.
Toby was one of the top Japanese builders, building models for PFM, NWSL and other higher end importers. Not that United models were that much inferior, but Toby built models usualy ran like a swiss watch right out of the box. You found the trick to not having to can motor older brass, just replace the weak magnet. The gear reduction in these are usualy steep enough that newer can motors are about pointless if you just replace the weak alinco magnet in the original motor. For those that dont know, you can get replacement neo-magnets in various shapes, you can get them from Micro Mark. The button style are the easiest to stack in the spot where the original magnet was. This restores the motors power and lowers the amp draw. If you have an open frame that doesnt like to run slow, or runs hot, the magnet is weak. Beautifull model! Mike
I thought you had to fill the space completely with magnets. If true, you might end up needing a magnet 1/64 inch thick. It’s hard to imagine those being available. So, is there ever a gap between the magnet stack and the pole pieces? And how do you fill it?
Or, basically, how about a tutorial on this magnet replacing business. Please.
Here’s an open-frame motor on an old Akane cab-forward that I replaced with rare earth magnets from Micro-Mark. They’re 1/8" thick by 1/4" wide by 1/2" long. They come 20 to a pack and they’re Micro Mark item #84991. The results in slow-speed operation, amp reduction and noise level has been astounding. So far I’ve replaced magnets in about 6 of my older open-frame motors, and the locomotives run better than they ever have before.
I heard years back from “old” guys that TOBY was the top of the line in brass, and some guys would only buy brass if it was TOBY, sat for hours listening to them actually compare the differences from other brass manufacturers, today brass dealers still praise the quality of these locomotives, and to think you got a beauty CNR, even better.
Thanks to all of you for providing the information on the Toby brass locomotive.
Just wanted to check with someone who was knowledgeable about the brand.
As I mentioned I had not heard of it before, realize now that it is of Japanese manufacturing and that most brass has been Korean made now for a number of years.
The level of detail is very good, With the exception of the older open frame motor there is nothing negative about the model.
Thank you for the example. I think I’ll try it someday on a motor where there’s “nothing to lose”. I’m pretty sure one will turn up someday–I’ve got a fair bit of old brass siting away waiting for a tuneup.
As an electronics engineer, I have run a number of tests, replacing the magnet in the old classic open frame Pitman style motors. EMDmike is right on.
The modern neodymium-iron boron magnets, especially the 30MGOE energy product jobs or better will really produce a nearly unbelievable increase in torque, improve low speed operation and run cooler and at greatly reduced currents. This effort is not a replacement for a $100.00 geared Faulhaber, but in many instances, as noted, will be quite suitable in many engines that were deeply geared out of the chute.
The current reduction and cool running is worth the effort in almost every case. This opens the door for using less expensive, lower current DCC controllers on a lot of older, “current hog” locos.
