Out of all the track cleaners out there on the market, which is the best one that does’nt cost alot? Are the walthers track cleaning cars any good?
Thanks
Sean
Sean: I’ve found out that it pretty much depends on where your layout is located. Mine’s in a garage, so I’ve found out with dust problems that wet-apply cleaners (Goo-Gone, etc.) don’t work very well, since they seem to turn the dust on the tracks into a sludge. I’ve got a Walthers track-cleaning car (the one with the abrasive weight slung between the trucks) and with a little judicious re-weighting and replacing the springs that control the weight (they seem light to me), it works pretty well. I usually make one or two passes over the layout before I operate. Don’t run it too fast, let it take time to get good contact with the rails. But remember, the best track-cleaning solution of all is to make sure you run your trains frequently, and if you haven’t yet, replace your plastic wheelsets with metal wheels. I don’t know what scale you model, but if it’s HO, good ones are made by Kadee, Proto 2000, Intermountain and several other manufacturers. Myself, I prefer the Proto 2000, but that’s a personal view. Hope this helps.
twhite, Mine is also in the garage. I have metal wheels on all of my rolling stock. (Mostly Athearn RTR Cars and Walthers Amtrak Superliners). I run my trains every day. I used to have one of the walthers bright boys(I think thats what they are called???), but that didnt work out too well. How often do you have to replace the cleaning pad on the walthers track cleaning car?
Sean
I just got a Walthers track cleaning car (CSX) from Trainworld for 12.99. It’s very well made for a “pad-type” car and seems to do a pretty good job.
It has a cast metal frame for weight and a brite-boy type pad that is well mounted with springs to keep a bit of pressure on. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality. It also has knuckle couplers.
It seems to be a step above the usual masonite A-Line type of homemade cleaning car and the price is right.
Edited:
The Walthers TC car weighs about as much as 4 cars I would guess (no scales) so I may need a helper for grades.
I’m sure that Aztec or Centerline would be better but I’m on a budget.
I also like alchohol on a rag wrapped around a masonite stick.
I use one of the Peco track cleaner blocks - these are pretty much the same as Walthers “Bright Boy” cleaners and work well, but would be very irritating on a large layout due to the time they take to use. If I was operating a layout with a long mainline and/or continuous running, I would probably buy one or more cleaning cars (or possibly one of the Fleischmann track cleaning locos). I’ve seen a car which uses a brass roller wrapped in felt (which is soaked in cleaning fluid) but I can’t remember the manufacturer’s name and these were kinda pricey in my opinion - not a lot less than the Fleischmann track cleaning locos and these can haul a train as well - the N scale one is styled as a small MOW loco.
I have always been happy with the results using a old t-shirt and some goo-gone or rubbing alcohol
Tony’s Train Exchange offers one that looks like a heavy brass tank car with a cleaning pad. Looks pretty good. I don’t have one yet, but I’ll probably get one. Anyone already have one?
i have made several track cleaning cars with just the material that i have on hand which brings the cost to zero and they work very well. i use a 40’ boxcar that i bought many years ago at a swap meet. then i drill two holes through the floor of the car about the diameter of a roofing nail and epoxy a piece of masonite with the coarse side down to the nails. insert the nails with the pad to the car and run it around your layout preferably being pushed ahead of the engine. make several of these pads so you can swap them when they get dirty. then use some sandpaper to clean the bottom of the pads. i made several cars in both ho and n scale. 1/4" masonite for ho and 1/8" for n.
A soft cloth with some kind of cleaning fluid should be preferred over abrasive cleaners. Anything abrasive will leave scratches in the track which in turn attract more dirt…
I use the same thing, except a 50’ box car, masonite, nails. First I cleaned all of the track with MAAS polish, then I run one or more of these cars. No problems yet.
Hi tpatrick,
To answer your question…I have a Tony’s Train Exchange track cleaning car and have found it to be great. I still have to take a deep breath when I think about how it cost me $93.50. However, I know it is built to last a lifetime. The tank is made out of solid machined brass, making it weigh around one pound which allows it to have fairly strong springs pushing down on the cleaning pad. Tony provides extra rubber seals for the tank and the only thing that I believe could ever go wrong with it is the trucks or wheels and they are standard fare which could easily be replaced for a few bucks.
When I think about the hours I spent with my fingers in a rag, soaked with cleaning solution, trying to rub down the rails without messing up the points of turnouts…well, Tony’s “Clean Machine” saves me hours of time and saves my fingers a lot of pain. Additionally, I was unable to clean under my city where I have staging and I couldn’t get inside tunnels and various other spots on the layout. Now, I simply load the “Clean Machine” with liquid cleaner, attach a new piece of cloth pad that Tony supplies to the metal “sled” underneath, and watch it run around the layout a half dozen times until the track is clean. My wife noticed that the cloth pads were simply strips of courderoy material and said I could buy a “million” year supply at a fabric shop for only a few dollars, should the pads supplied eventually run out .
When you think about it…if I clean the track a couple of times per year, over the next 10 years, it will work out to about 20 cleanings or less than $5.00 per cleaning, which is very inexpensive when you think about it. If I use it more frequently or better yet, should I live to enjoy trains another 20 years, that “cost per use” will come down to less than a couple of dollars per use. The ease of use and great results are definitely worth the cost.
I hope you will forgive my analysis but I guess having been a math teacher in the past and a
Thanks for all the info everyone. I do have one more question…How often should I clean my tracks?
Sean
Bottom line, cost$
Depending upon the size of your HO layout will determine your method & product.
I have an arsenal of cleaners, both liquid,( goo gone, 91% Isopropyl etc, the brite boy, and MAAS
metal paste cleaner
Also had(past tense) the $66.00 HOcenter line & $99.00 Tonys HO clean machines
If your HO layout is less than 200 sq ft, single level and within reach, spend $5.00 and get MAAS.
www.maasinc.com It will significantly slow the buildup of oxidation. It’s what your Mother used to polish her sterling silverware.
I sold both of those car track cleaners on the forums and switched to MAAS but if you’re in the big bucks then go Tonys.
Pick it up at Ace Hardware in the household cleaing section.
If you are not happy with it I will refund your five bucks.
See MR Jan 2003
locomotive3, I looked at the MAAS website, which one would I get?
Thanks
Sean
The two oz paste tube. Also works great on loco wheels. I cleaned a 1965 Lionel-HO Steamer.
First time in 35+ years. Great stuff.
Also as substitute product I have used a automotive polishing compound, a seven oz paste can in any
automotive section.
You have to chuckle about these products. They were never intended to clean track and this surfaced
in MR 2003 after all these years. It’s a no brainer.
Use a small block, like the size of a brite boy or the brite boy itself.
Then use a two inch wide, six inch long piece of old T shirt material(100% cotton)
Wrape the T shirt material around the block, apply the MAAS on the edge of the block and drag it across the rail head. Let it slightly dry, then with another block, un-treated T shirt material, wipe
it off.
This way you don’t apply it were you don’t want it.
What took the industry so long to discover this simple/cheap procedure?
Most model diesels pick up current from all wheels, so spread a treated six inch piece of T shirt
material on the track.
Then hold your diesel in place with one truck on the treated T shirt material and the other truck
directly on the rails, throttle up and apply power to the rails, then reverse the trucks.
Repeat the procedure with an un-treated piece of T shirt material .
Again a no brainer cheap procedure.
give it a few rounds before you run anything.
Sean:
Logged off before I got your reply on the Walthers track cleaning car. I use an old T-shirt to wipe off the build-up on the pad about every fourth or fifth run over the layout. Seems to work well, so far. I don’t think you’ll have to worry about replacing the abrasive pad for quite a while. I’ve heard if it gets too much of a build-up, very fine sandpaper (I’d suggest emery paper instead of the usual kind that’s used to sand wood) should bring it back to almost new. However, since like myself, you have a garage railroad–don’t know what state, but I’m in California and it gets really hot and dry here during the Summer–don’t just leave the car on the tracks in the yard. The dry heat may probably make the pad brittle and useless. I have found that out by leaving my Bright Boys lying around. Again, since you and I have garage railroads, I’d really stay away from the wet cleaners, despite all the excellent advice you seem to be getting, unless you live in a more temperate climate. Or if you decide to wipe your tracks down prior to running your track cleaner, use something like alcohol or–believe it or not–nail polish remover. Not TOO much, though. Myself, I like to stick with the dry abrasive as much as possible. One other thought–something I’ve used before–Lehmann, the German manufacturer of G-scale trains, has a large pad similar to a Walther’s Bright Boy that they sell to clean their outdoor track. It’s about the same grade as a Bright Boy, but it’s a much bigger pad and sometimes I use it to clean my yard track or any parallel double-track I have. Use it sparingly, though. It seems to out-do the Bright boy, and I only have to use it maybe once a year. But oh, my, do those rails SHINE for quite a while after. Okay, hope this helps. Glad you’ve gotten metal wheels, that’s going to help a lot. Just make sure you replace any plastic wheelsets from any future purchases, okay?
Enjoy your trains. It’s the greatest hobby in the world.
I use Goo Gone followed by 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. The Goo Gone works great, but leaves a residue that can kill the traction tires found on all too many of the locos made today in 3 rail O gauge, and the alcohol gets rid of this residue.