Track Cleaning? Easy!

Hi all. This is my little public service address.

If you are like me, you hate manual track cleaning. I tried some different track cleaning cars, but they all didn’t give great results. I have been looking at the CMX Clean Machine for a while, but the cost kept me from getting one. Then at the Saskatoon train show i got to chatting with a fellow who was running one on his club’s layout. He had nothing but good things to say about this unit and highly recomended it.

So when I got home I hoped on the old computer and ordered one from Tony’s Train Exchange. I gotta say, Tony’s got it to me quickly, specially considering I’m in Canada. In short order I had a Clean Macine in my grubby little hands.

The first thing I noticed was this thing is built like a tank! All brass construction, metal wheels, and Kadee couplers. So far so good. The only thing I had for a non polar solvent was some CRC electrical contact cleaner. So I filled it up and let it go. And was I impressed! I did two laps on the mainlines (that I thought was clean) and this thing picked up more gunk! So I ran it around the entire layout, and that was the easiest cleaning I’ve ever done! If you are like me, hate cleaning track and would rather be running trains, this thing is well worth the money.

I bought one years ago and was sorry I waited so long.

I wash the pads in Dawn DW soap and they clean right up for re-use.

I finally bought mine a few months ago.

Now all I need is a layout to run it on.

[:(]

-Kevin

a recent club discussion on dirty track pointed out that using alcohol to clean the wheels on locos leaves a non-conductive residue (water) on the rails which causes micro-arching when wheels can’t make direct contact with the rails. the micro-arching also results in a non-conductive black film which makes the problem worst as well as pitting the rails.

other solvents that don’t contain water or other non-conducting material avoid this problem

the first step is for members not to clean their loco wheels using alcohol on layout tracks

the club is going to try using Masonite pads under cleaning cars that can be cleaned with sandpaper

Non-polar solvents do the best job by a wide margin. Published in 2019 on that other e-zine site is a list of all known and tried (and vouched for/acclaimed) fluids. Wahl’s and other popular fluids were well down the list. At the very top was kerosene, followed by WD-40 Contact Cleaner (NOT the dessicant/hinge squeak spray!!!), and then by CRC Contact Cleaner. Lacquer thinner was near the middle third if I recall.

I push a Bachmann dusting car in front of my Y6-b and tow the CMX behind it. I do this once annually, and go weeks and weeks between running trains. Seems to work. BTW, I have tried mineral spirits (high on the list), the recommended-by-CMX lacquer thinner, and am now using kerosene (clear and refined, found in the camping section for wick lamps). I can’t say lacquer thinner was a poor choice, and I know Doc Wayne uses it. But the mineral spirits and kerosene both did a very good and durable job of it.

Someone has to be imbibing alcohol excessively to think that ‘water forms a nonconductive layer’ for more than a few milliseconds after alcohol cleaning, or that ‘microarching’ is an actual word.[:)]

About on a par with the actual chemical knowledge reflected in the polar/nonpolar solvent ‘discussions’ over the years.[:-^]

If you want to keep the tinfoil hat on regarding alcohol, just get lab-grade absolute ethanol. But don’t leave it in a CMX tank for long (it is aggressively hygroscopic) and do not get it on your skin or (worse) try to sip it, as it has a considerable exotherm as it encounters water.

The first track I laid on my layout was aunt underground loop for the subway, so I had always planned to get a CMX machine. I got one and it’s the best for track cleaning. I actually have to MU together two subway motors to get it up and down the short connecting grades to the surface. Doing tunnels with a CMX machine is no problem at all.

It’s really easier to use the 0-5-0 drive to make a couple of passes In a yard, but that’s easy, too.

I use lacquer thinner in mine. I tried alcohol, but the thinner works better. One time, I briefly removed the car and placed it on unfinished pink foam. After a few minutes, I found a neat rectangular depression from the thinner. I eventually scenicked the hole, filled it with tinted Envirotex and had a tiny pond.

My track cleaning process isn’t that fancy:

After I lay track and the caulk has set, I do a once-and-done “gleaming” of the rails (which has been discussed many times in these forums).

For routine cleaning, I have a Centerline track cleaning car (a heavy flat car with a big square hole in the center), which I purchased cheap from the hobby store bargin bin - because it was missing the essencial metal roller. I made my own cleaning pads in the form of a few blocks (1" x 1" x 1.5") of laminated masonite (8 layers), which fit loosely in the car’s square hole. The blocks have a slight edge rounding on all sides of the ends to avoid snagging.

While the loco pushes the car around the layout, I’ll pull the block out to spot-check the cleaning, once the black lines show up, I’ll flip the block over and use the clean end, or change to a new block, as needed. Afterwards, I’ll use coarse sand paper to renew the block ends. I figure I won’t need to make new blocks for the next few hundred years! [:D]

Jim

Crazy car is over $250. now on Ebay, [(-D], no thanks!

I’ll keep what I use now. It woks great!

I have 2 of these, with added weights.

I think lots of track cleaning is over rated.

Run trains. The best track cleaner yet!

Keep the wheels clean.

Kevin: For what a new one cost, you could be like RR’s do and lease yours out! [(-D]

Years ago, I went to Gulliver’s Gate, an international modeling exhibit that had a loop of HO scale trains running around each modeled area. Each train was prototypically correct for each continent, although I kept noticing the odd Rio Grande or Canadian National boxcar in every train. I tracked down the exhibit’s train guy, who explained they were Walthers track cleaning cars, but they hadn’t been re-badged yet. For their operational model, just running those cars all the time worked fine.

I have been using the same one for a long time. Works great and is on sale on Amazon for $27.00. The pad is replaceable and I did wear one out.

Hello All,

OK…

Here we go- -Again!!!

An article published in the current NMRA magazine; April 2023, titled “Track Dirt Science”; pg. 22-29 (Not an April Fools joke!) examines track fouling and cleaning from a quasi-scientific perspective rather than an experienced-based- -“This is what ‘works’ for me.”

The author examines what track sludge is comprised of and how it can physically inhibit reliable operation.

Analysis of this track sludge is examined under an electron microscope to break down its composition.

Different cleaning solvents are also examined, along with application.

Both the CMX track cleaning car and the Centerline track cleaning car are discussed along with the use of Masonite pads for “scrubbing” the rails.

One note the author emphasizes is eschewing the use of abrasive pads; “Bright Boys” et al, to avoid micro-scratches that exacerbate the buildup of track sludge and what he calls “Wheel Cheese.”

How to build a continuous wheel cleaning station is also outlined.

The two (2) most common methods of rail cleaning are examined- -“Wet” vs. “Dry.”

I have been using Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants “ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner,” which purportedly leaves a conductive residue, which falls under the “Wet Method” category according to the author.

The author’s conclusion was that the “Dry Method”- -using denatured alcohol- -removed the track sludge most effectively, and did not contribute to future attraction of track sludge.

I use a Dapol B800 motorized track cleaner (“Motorized” refers to the vacuum impeller in the unit) not its ability for self-propulsion. It al

Why not make your own?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VslvfBWkVBc

Another option is using rubbing alcohol on a terry cloth (similar to the kind used for cleaning glasses)? I do it and it’s fear cheaper than the $200+ option.

The Clean Machine is $169 at Tony’s Train Exchange. I avoid Ebay like the plaue now a days. Too many clowns smoking way too much weed before they decide on prices and shipping charges. [:o)]

I posted this as a brief review of a product that I like, and think works extremely well. If you don’t want to spend the money to get one, that’s fine. I’m never going to disparage someone for not spending money. If you enjoy cleaning track manualy, that’s great too. If you want to build your own, that’s awesome. There isn’t eough builders out there anymore. Same with what you use to clean. If you find lama urine on a snotty kleenex works the best for you, excelent.

However, if you are like me, hate cleaning track with a rag, and want something that (in my opinion) works better than a Walthers track cleaning boxcar, this may be for you.

I let her go and spend my time running trains while this unit does the work. Quick, easy, and extremely effective.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m busy cleaning track and need to go pour myself a bourbon. A railroaders work is never done. [:D]

I use an old sock to clean my track. Its easy and FREE! [:D]

Hand rubbing gets old with over 1,000 feet of mainline, branches, passing tracks, spurs and yards. The CMX cars work well but they need to be refilled from time to time. We don’t have llamas available to provide cleaning fluid but I know of an alpaca farm. Will that work?

I built myself a track cleaning car from a masonite pad kit I found on eBay many years ago. Put it in an MDC boxcar that fits my prototype era and area and it works quite well. For smal areas or spots where the cleaner doesn’t work (namely my scratchbuilt crossings), I use a good old pink pencil eraser. Works quite well in getting gunk off.

Edit: 2,100th post on the Forums.

Same here. I don’t even bother putting any liquids anymore.

Simon

I got a CMX from before they were called this (used to have another name when first built). Best solution is 91% alcohol. Never use rubbing alcohol as it has oils in it and leaves a residue. Only thing of note is that you need a strong engine to pull it or multipuls.