I have been trying to clean my track but still have some black stuff coming of the rails when I wipe it so I tried Goo Gone but the track continues to be dirty. I was wondering if I am not leaving the Goo Gone on the track long enough as I was leaving the Goo Gone on for a couple of minutes then wiping the rails off. So how long should I leave Goo Gone on the rails?
Thanks Billy21
GooGone works well for me. I just dampen a rag and rub the railheads with the damp rag until they are bright and shiny.
If you want to keep your rail clean, you have to clean the wheels of your rolling stock at the same time. Otherwise the dirt from the wheels comes off on the clean rail, making it dirty, which is where you started at.
Goo Gone leaves a sticky film on the rail that just attracts more dirt if you don’t go back and thoroughly clean it off. A metal polish used to clean mag wheels and chrome on your car is better.
Get some mineral spirits (paint thinner). It works fine and dries quick. I have used it for over 15 years on N scale, Ho scale, and G scale and also cleaning and soaking antique clock movements. Cuts the grease and oil.
Bob
I would not recommend using Goo Gone. I’ve tried it, and while it cleans pretty well, it leaves behind a residue that’s difficult to remove.
I have long since switched over to using metal polish.
I have a track cleaning car I built with a masonite pad that drags along the rail head.
I soak the pad with some rubbing alcohol, then run it around the layout, along with some MOW cars with metal wheels. It does a pretty good job of keeping things burnished.
Of course, nothing keeps the rails clean like running your trains regularly.
Lee
http://electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/no-ox-id-a.html
Works much better and you will have years free of track cleaning rather than days.
Interesting, but I noticed that this product was described as an “electrical contact grease”. Does this degrade loco performance by creating slippery rails?
My club’s layout gets a weekly visit from one of these filled with 90% alcohol: 
followed by a couple of these outfitted with fresh handi wipe strips:
twice on the main and once on the sidings. Our club also requires metal wheels and as long as the members keep the wheels on their locomotives clean, dirty track issues are not a problem.
As mentioned, Goo Gone leaves it’s own crap behind. Something like Goof Off that is mineral spirit based works better and doesn’t leave residue behind.
I prefer CRC 2-26 electrical contact cleaner. Keeps the rails cleaner loonger. Just make sure it’s dry before you run trains.
It can, but use about a teaspoon per 500’ of track by rubbing on with your finger. Then allow it to penitrate the rails for 24 hours then simply wipe any excess off with a piece of scrap t-shirt or cloth. There will be a black film. Allow your locos to run on the treated rails to penetrate the loco wheels to. Then run trains for about four years and repeat.
I also treated the contacts that ride above the trucks on my n-scale locos.
hey fellas
I thought I would add to this thread instaed of starting another.
Anyway I like using running alcohol and sometimes goo gone ( depends on what I have in the house ) but I was wondering what you guys think is the best to put on the tracks after cleaning to slow oxidation? I see some people say wahls clipper oil and others say railzip or labelle oil. Anybody have any thoughts?
There will probably be as many answers as there are people. I am in the “no goo gone” camp. We also had an incedent on our club with acetone in one of the CMX cars so that is now off my list. Note there are two basic types of rubbing alcohol, 75% and 95%. The latter cleans better. You will soon be told that alcohol cleans well but leaves the rail too dry and consequently gets pitted by tiny electrical arcs between the loco wheel and rail…
Our club used the wahls clipper oil for years. We switched to a product called LPS-1 which worked great for a while and then for some reason seemed to have the same probems of leaving more crud behind like goo gone and WD-40. We then discovered that LPS-1 has a shelf life. So now we replace the can once a year even if it means throwing more than 1/2 of it away.
I also purchased a product from the hobby store specifically for leaving a tiny electrically conductive film on the rails. I don’t remember if it is the RailZip that you mention or not. It also seems to work well.
If you are actually interested in preventing oxidation, as someone earlier in this thread mentioned there are products in the electrical section of your hardware store made specifically for this purpose. Of course, I’ve found that Mothers Mag Wheel Polish works pretty well.
Since every model railroad’s environment is unque, it might be best to select a few of these people’s ideas. Try them out on YOUR railroad and work down to one that is best for your situation.
The only situation where oxidation is a problem is if you have brass-railed track. And even then, if you run your trains a lot, the issue doesn’t come up. The oxide of brass is non-conductive of electricity; the oxide of nickle silver is a conductor. I would avoid using an oil of any kind unless your track is brass, and then maybe 1 drop on each railhead no closer together than 150 feet or so.
I have used the Wahl’s clipper oil for many years and like it. I have a three deck layout with a lot of hidden and hard to reach track. The track cleaner car, with Wahl’s keeps the railroad in pretty good operating shape with little additonal effort from me.
One thing I have found in comparing with other modelers in the KC area is that results can differ depending on the room(s) the layout is in and how well insulated and sealed it is from dirt and dust. I include a work train which has two of the cleaner cars, one with Wahl’s in the tank and the other just the pads cleaning up behind and seldom ever have any problem.
But again, location, temps, humidity, etc. will cause havoc and the best protection is keeping the railroad room clean.
Bob
I’ve used Goo-Gone and even did an experiment for one of my friends to gauge it as a good track cleaner. While it cleaned the track well it left behind a film that attracts more dirt. I did the same experimant with a product called Krud-Kutter and it worked as well and didn’t leave a film. It does however have a somewhat strong odor. Now for cleaning the track and keeping it clean with very little if any maintenance I recommend the GLEAM method. I used it in 2006 and didn’t have to clean my track again until last year when I tore a good part of the layout and built a new one. I had to GLEAM again but not since then. Cleaning if any is limited to a quick wipe with a clean cloth if the layout has been idle for a couple of months or I dropped some plaster powder on it. Here’s a quick search I did on GLEAM.
Lacquer thinner does a very good job of degreasing and evaporates quickly. However, you do have to be careful with the fumes. 91% Isopropyl alcohol is my 2nd choice. Very little odor but it doesn’t do as good a job at cleaning as lacquer thinner.
Tom
I personally use a rag cut from an old T-shirt dipped in denatured alcohol. A quick trip around once a month is all it ever takes.
I’ve only seen one person hit the nail on the head, though. If you’re using nickel silver track, why are you trying to eliminate oxidation? That’s one of the huge advantages of NS track – it’s oxide conducts electricity and doesn’t interfere with operations. Just because your rag / track cleaner / whatever has black gunk on it doesn’t mean your track is dirty.
If you’re having connectivity issues, look elsewhere.
a cheap, suede palm work glove works great. just wipe the rail heads with your fingers and then clean the glove when needed with a wire brush. you can use a solvent if you want but i find that is unnecessary.
grizlump
cheers guys, I didn’t know that nickel silver rails didn’t oxidize.
RTV you said that just because you have black gunk on the track that doesn’t mean its dirty, what is that black gunk then??