Can anyone comment upon the use of a liquid insulator between cut-ends of track in order to achieve electrical isolation?
It seems to me that the “insulating rail joiners” are unprototypical looking, and inserting/filing a small strip of styrene is a lot of work. Perhaps - to attain electrical isolation between “blocks”, as well as thermal change in rail dimensions - one could use nail varnish or some other clear liquid painted onto the cut ends of the track?
Thanks for any thoughts you may have on this idea.
Gaps should always be filled. If the rail expands and there is no insulation you may have a short which will be very hard to find. Thin strips of styrene are excellent for filling gaps. Use a piece that is the same width as the rail. This minimizes the amount that has to be carved away after the glue has dried. I usually use .030 by .080 and five minute epoxy to fill gaps.
You’ve just opened Pandora’s box because everyone has their own idea as to how to do this.
I agree with you that the “insulated rail joiners” are not the best to look at but when you’re done, no one will ever see them unless you point them out. They become so insegnificant (SP) that they litraly (SP) disappear. if they bother you paint them rail brown with the rest of the track. When I get all of the track laid and it runs right I paint the track and the ties. I’m on the fourth layout and use them all over they also give my track space to breathe. Most of the other joints are soldered especially on the curves which might be as big as 31" radius. NEVER NEVER NEVER put an insulated rail jointer on a curve as it will NOT hold the radius and will give you a kink (translates into TROUBLE). I don’t care how many spikes you use it’s not going to hold.
Have a blessed day and remember SANTA FE ALL THE WAY
Bob
Here’s an alternative way to gap. use a credit card between the rails. After spiking or however you fasten it down and making sure they are lined up horizontally and vertically, fill the gap with gel type super glue. Let it dry for 24 hours, then file it to the shape of the rail. Paint to match if you like, but it’s practically invisible anyway.
YES YOU DO. Rail ‘creeps’ with tempurature change.
The EASIEST is to use insulated rail joiners. They come in translucent white and solid brown.
The BEST LOOKING is a piece of styrene, cemented in place, and trimmed to fit the rail contour by cutting and filing.
Those who say fill are correct. This is a case of better safe than sorry. You have no idea what a pain it can be to have to find one that has closed up and fix it.
In the photo of the prototype you can see a piece of fiber board stuck between the rail ends to hold the gap. A small piece of styrene is a good idea for modeling, and it’s prototypical too.[swg]
I used the garish yellow insulated rail joiners. Their placement allows them to serve as overhang warnings near turnouts. The Missouri Pacific used to paint ties yellow for overhang warning, so this isn’t exactly unprototypical.
Plus, the bright color shows me my block ends. [}:)]
Some of the people in my modular group used those yellow joiners. I HATE them, no matter what im looking at on thier modules my eyes are always drawn to big bright yellow joiners[sigh]
After filling the gap with styrene (and using a little CA), a little practice with a dremel and a cutting disk, you will be able to use the disk as a grinding tool and quickly file the styrene piece to be the same profile as the rail. It takes less than 10 seconds to file one once you get the hang of it.
