I need some input from you pros out there. I’m getting ready to seal the concrete floor around the layout to keep the dust down. I’m kind of leaning towards a Behr or Rustoleum epoxy paint. The concrete is unsealed so I don’t think I’ll need any kind of etch on it. Kind of thinking the area around my work bench might need to be re-coated after some time due to heavy traffic, so something that can be put down in multiple coats would be a plus.
Just want to hear good or bad experiences with paint/stain/sealer for concrete and any recommendations you might have.
The key to ANY paint job is PREP!! A thourough vacuuming and probably a mopping with dilute muriatic acid should do it (check the instructions on the can[%-)]) (I know - real men don’t read instructions![swg]). I dont know if you really need epoxy paint - I painted my basement floor over 6 years ago with Behr Porch & floor paint. (80-90 y o house - floor never painted) The only area that has lost paint is where I have my office type chair by my computer. Just don’t walk on it for 2-3 days after painting - the longer better - I did mine just before leaving for 5 days. My [2c]
My layout is in the garage, with a concrete floor. So I put down some carpet remnants, under the whole layout. It’s a lot easier on the knees, when you have to go under to work on the wiring, or fix a derailment on the backside of the layout. It’s also a lot warmer than concrete. You should be able to find some fairly good carpet for free, if you look.
I looked at that Behr floor and porch paint today. They have a new 1 part epoxy paint out that’s only $6 more/gallon than the floor and porch. I’m figuring 2 gallons should do 400sq. ft. I’d hate to regret saving $12 down the road.
I’m thinking I’ll have the same problem where my office chair is. I definitely want something I can re-coat a year or so down the road.
I,ve done a few garages with a 2 part epoxy. water base. I cut in the corners with a wide throw away cheap brush and rolled the floor with a low nap roller sleeve. The paint I use can be made any color at the paint store. Last time I used it the cost was around 40 dollars a gallon. You mix it and wait 30 minutes for it to go off. then work fast. It has a nice shine to it and is very durable. Some floor paints you can,t park cars on. Something in the compounds react to the rubber and when you move the car the floor comes with it. This paint won,t do that. I put 1 coat on at the end of the day and the second coat on in the morning. then walk away for a couple days. I would suggest going to a good paint store and see what kind of products they have to offer. Real important to clean the floor. No dirt, oils, dust or anything you want to look at after it drys.
I have also done concrete staining. That also comes in any color and is the most durable product I,ve seen. It has a low sheen to it. I’t semi transparant so it helps to have a clean base to start with. A good paint store could help you out there also. Either product you can put designs on your floor if you wanted. Do a google search on concrete or epoxy floor paints.
Would you be interested in one of the outer deck or concrete patio “Fleckstone” type paints? I think it would look very nice, and it would certainly seal the concrete below it.
I’m NO expert, but have painted a floor or two over my years…
The absolute best product ever, was a sealer / color impregnator type product used on a locker room floor back some forty plus years ago. It NEVER had to be redone and NEVER shown any ware! I have no recall as to the name of the product and I doubt very seriously it’s any longer available…Judging from the odor / off gassing during curing, it most likely was not people, nor environmentally friendly! But it worked great.
Moving forward to the 21st century: I have my Trainroom floor painted with Sherman -Williams Floor Enamel. It does come in a number of colors, but I just picked Battleship Gray.
It seems to be holding up very well, even at the entrance and in the “shop” area. I do agree, however, that prep. is VERY critical…Even on new concrete.
I agree with hobo9941 here. I used real thick high quality padding with some old carpet that was being thrown away. No sore feet, no back painand when car hits the floor there is minor damage if any. only drawback is DON’T DROP SMALL PARTS.
A small remnant of indoor/outdoor carpet with a very low pile should solve the office chair problem - I wish I was this smart whin I painted the floor!![D)]
My layout is in the basement, origionally did the floor with concrete floor paint, not the epoxy type, worked ok. Also have some carpet pieces on the floor around the chair and where I stand most often. But this past year I tiled the train room with self sticking floor tiles, more for looks than anything else, got them cheap and they look great. They have stayed down just fine and don’t even come up if the sump over flows.( Pump went out one night ! ) Still have the carpet remnants on the floor for comfort.
I did note one guy says he has heard nothing but bad things about the Behr floor paint.
The Rustoleum Epoxysheild Pro seems to get good reviews. There is a discussion with before/after pictures at garage journal
POR15 is pricey and results seem to vary.
The key to a good floor coating is PREP PREP PREP!!!
The funny thing about paint on concrete floors is that if you accidentally spill any old latex paint on the floor it will be there FOREVER! However if you actually want to paint the floor it peels and scuffs in no time… [%-)]
When my new basement was constructed (three years ago) I had the contractor paint the floor and walls with a gray concrete floor paint. I am not sure of the brand but it is water based. It has helped keep the place clean, however the paint is wearing through in some high traffic areas, so I will need to put some additional paint down.
I used the Behr concrete paint five years ago and it is still in great shape. No dust, no chipping and it cleans up nicely. The secret to success, as already pointed out, is to prep the floor thoroughly. Wash it down with TSP, rinse it completely and make sure it is dry before applying the paint.
I just completed my 2 car garage renovation, with insulation, a/c and recessed fluorescent lighting. We used the HD 2 part epoxy floor covering. It comes with flecks that can be sprinkled on while still wet and before it is clear coated. I had a second clear coat put on and it is GORGEOUS! It is very durable. While painting the wall cabinets I spilled some latex paint, and It wiped right off with a wet sponge.
Here’s a vote for the Rustoleum Epoxy. I did not only my train room but the entire basement. It really cuts downon the amount of dust. I have had a couple of places where the Rustoleum lifted but I think that was because I didn’t get the floor entirely clean (preparation). I used the water based version and the odor is not too bad. It dissipates within the 12 houre curing time. I even have it in the laundry room where the washer drains into the floor drain. After about 5 years, it still shows no sign of wear or lifting due to moisture.
This a variation on Athearn bashing - Home Despot bashing! Now I worked for the XXXX’s for 8 1/2 years after retiring as a carpenter, and heard all the urban legends about “factory seconds” from every one of their vendors - this is not so, however you have to watch out for some of the “house brand” stuff. Not Behr or most of the other made in USA stuff, but if it says “made in China” be careful. Most of the Chineese stuff is OK, but not all - I won’t start about the lead paint or melamine, but “Let the Buyer Beware”!! Back to Behr - check out Consemer Reports, they have given it top ratings almost every year. Behr [tup] Home Despot [tdn][|(]
No Skidding (that’s the name of the company) makes some really good floor coatings and preparation materials. I’ve used them on a woodworkers club shop floor and they held up like iron. Here’s a link to their catalog:
The no skidding component is abrasives that you can add to the coating. If you leave it out it just makes a really durrable floor coating. Their electrolitic cleaners are amazing for surface prep. We spilled some silicone lubricant on the floor and used this stuff and cleaned it right up. The cleaners are on page 2 of the catalog. Their products are really outstanding.
Thanks for all the tips. I’ll probably go with the Behr 1 part epoxy. It has a little longer working time and the price isn’t too bad. That’s a good idea about a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet under my office chair. Pick up the muriatic acid today, so I’m definitely going to prep it right.
Sorry, I should have clarified my stance on Behr at the same time. I have used Behr paint in the past and consider it to be top of the line. I can’t comment on their floor paint though.[:)]