I believe I need a couple of LED tube lights for my ‘train shed’ (12x16) double deck layout, but I am totally a novice at this LED lighting subjec
I’m pretty sure I will make use of LED strip lighting to light the lower shelf/decks (underside of upper deck), …but I was unsure what to do about the upper deck lighting? Perhaps just ceiling lights like old florescent ones, but newer LED versions. Perhaps a row of single/dual tube fixtures (LED ones) down the center of the room, or two rows of fixtures down the ceiling at either side of center.
Whats the latest in ‘LED tubes’, and minimal fixture size, and best pricing???
Reply [QUOTE] Your low overhead and relative lack of insulation (yes, I see some, but this is still a steel building) suggests that LED strip lighting may be what works best for you. It’ takes up very little space compared to track lighting, which usually hangs down 4" to 6" from where t’s mounted. LED strip lights are even thinner than a tube-type fixture (~2") since they can be surface mounted and are maybe 0.25" tall. Heat can be a big issue and LEDs put out virtually none.
Plus, LED strip lights can usually be surface hung on the ceiling without the need for a contractor, permit, or code inspection by the property owner or resident. LED strip lights can also be repositioned easily if the initial install needs adjustment.[/QUOTE]
I believe that idea of strip lighting on the ceiling was an idea I initially considered, and now that I rethink it, is one I should reconsider.
It was only recently as I installed the masonite sheets over the interior insulation that I realized how dark it was going to be inside the shed until I got it painted a lighter color and installed some sort of lighting to use during ‘benchwork’ construction, etc.
Perhaps I should just install some surplus fluorescent tube lights as a temp solution until I decide on a more permenant solution?
But I would really like to determine my needs for wiring up whatever lighting I will eventually use, and get it installed before I close up that center portion of the ‘rafters’. The LED strip lighting would be realitively easy to ‘hang’, …and I think easy to wire up,…probably easier than fluorescent type fixtures?
Aren’t the LED’s somewhat ‘directional’ in their lighting,…such that I would have to be concerned with their locations mounted approx 5 ft over the top deck?
8 four-foot long LED lights, and linkable, all for $62
These are the latest ‘shop style’ lites I found at Amazon,…
(Pack of 8) LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture 4FT,20W,2200lm,6500K (Super Bright White),Utility led Shop Light, LED Ceiling light and Under Cabinet Light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0…P85O3COJ&psc=1
That’s less than $10 per lite, and they are linkable,…
I have some concerns about the 6500K spec?
I’m thinking I could link 3 of these down either of the two sides of my 15 foot long ceiling in my shed,…for ‘room’ lighting?
Might even be usable for under upper shelf lighting?
You want 2700 to 3000. Still like track lighting. 8’ length track for $20 and cans for around $5 or less, bulbs for around $1. This was just a fast look at prices, bet I could find cans for way less.
I think the way you have the conduit mounted might interfere with mounting tube lighting.
You can put the conduit, or even run the romex uncovered, above the rafters in that little triangular space and then drop it down to wire each light fixture. Even in habitable space, if the fixture conceals the connection of the supply with the fixture wiring, its within code.
8’ track, big box store, cans e-bay, look for other brands that are compatable like Edison and look for lots. Bulbs, most anywhere these days, bought mine off e-bay but Cosco has them for less than $2 or less.
One I just found e-bay #322974625460 for 6, comes out to about $5.20 each, out the door, buy it now. If I needed any that would have been gone. You can find even better prices if you try.
I’m ordering these today and will do some experimenting. If they should happen to put out too little light for what I was looking for, then I might just string up a row of the bright whites next to them as has been mentioned in this subject thread,…two ‘shades of white’
I’m going to run a string of 3 of these 4 foot lights down each side of the shed’s ceiling,…just about where the edge of that masonite is up there. I’ll likely mount them on some sort of long board that can be tilted over so as to light up the the lower deck and upper deck, and concurrently keep the light from shinning directly into operators eyes standing in the middle of the room. That center light fixture on the fan will likely be removed.
(Please excuse the mess in the shed, and other hanging ‘shop lights’ that were being experimented with)
You also want to look at the CRI (Color Rendering Index) of the lights you’re considering. If it’s below the low- to mid-80’s colors may not look right, whatever their temperature is.
Best is to have a CRI over 90, but they can be hard to find, and can be pricier as well.
[QUOTE] I found that light color is an important consideration when selecting LEDs. I noticed that you selected warm white. You’ll find that the light is much different with other light colors. I was told when selecting LEDs for the house that light color had a lot to do with the quality and usability of light.
Last Fall I bought a 6 pack of 60 watt equivalent LED bulbs in daylight color on Amazon. I put two in a ceiling fixture in the family room and found the light to be very bright and harsh. I took them out and put in bulbs that were of the same rating but in warm white. Much better for the family room. I put the daylight color bulbs in my wife’s sewing room and she loves that light for sewing.
I changed out the fluorescent bulb over my modeling workbench for a $10 bathroom vanity mirror fixture I bought and Lowes and put three of the 60 watt daylight bulbs in it. It’s much better light for that kind of work. I certainly wouldn’t see nearly as well with warm white bulbs in it.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE]
I have been using LED strip lights for several years now and one thing I found is that LED lights often have a narrow color temperature range, especially the bright white lights, so they don’t render the full spectrum of colors in the scenery. The scenery appears somewhat monochrome, making it more difficult to see detail, and it even seems to affect depth perception.
My solution for this was to use two LED strips, one warm white, and one bright white. This solves several problems;
The perceived brightness difference between different light types is really the difference in color temperature. As the higher the color temperature the more vivid the colors of objects appear and maybe more reflected light is entering your eye. Standard incandescent bulbs were down around 3000 degree K, both CFL and LED can come in a range of color temperature, going from warm white to day light to cool white. The problem with names is one manufactures daylight bulb is not the same color temperature as another, so match the color temperature. There is also a color rendering index or CRI, that is how well alternatives render color compared to a reference. From what I read the reference can be either an incandescent bulb or daylight, and so that leads me to believe the the CRI can be different values depending on the reference you are using.
So the equivalent wattage LED/CLF bulb probably has a different color temperature than the incandescent bulb you are used to, giving the less or more bright perception.
Here a couple references and pictures that maybe of help, should you wish to know more.
I think we have a mis comunication here. I recomended track lighting because you can put the lights as close together as you want (mine were every 15") and you can swivel them to fix any shadows. The color I suggested is not the best for the construction phash but will do, but for the final results. Always think of the final results. When I was doing benchwork I accually used dual 100 watt cfl’s in a central fixture. Since track lighting can be sliced and diced you can put light anywhere. Oh and no valance needed.
