Train stops at certain spots

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hi Everyone,

I’m having an issue with nearly all of my locomotives having a problem with unwanted stops along the track. Once I get the train up to full speed, it’s not an issue. It seems that it’s a voltage problem, but I don’t know how to solve it. I’ve tested the sections of track where they are either soldered or have connectors and there is continuity being indicated. I especially have the problem with my switcher in my yard where I have four tracks branching off of turn outs. I’ve cleaned the wheels and that didn’t make a difference. I’ve also cleaned the track with no improvement. The turn outs are the Atlas #6 (?). I’m getting very frustrated with doing any more work on the layout because I can’t run the trains without interruption. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Jim

2

You have mentioned Atlas Number 6 turnouts.

Were these turnouts manufacturied in the United States of America and or the Peoples Republic of China?

Atlas marks the country of origin on the bottome side of cross ties on all of it’s track products.

Could be that the frogs are not insulated correctly.

Switch points could be loose.

If you suspect that a specific turnout and or turnouts are the problem, contact Atlas.

I do not know what the policy is nowdays, that they manufacturing nothing in house at the former plant in Hillside, New Jersey.

It could very well take several months to recieve replacements.

Do you have a low voltage test lamp, a 12 volt D.C.?

If not one can be purchase at a automotive parts store.

Test to see if you are getting power on all sides of the turnout. Atlas turnouts are powered on all sides, not selective, in other words, you have to block and put power leeds in on which side of track you want power to.

Assuming your layout is conventional D.C.?

Start from power pack and trace down with test lamp. Make sure power pack is on.

Then there to the next track connection and or to power terminal strip.

Do not know how your layout is wired.

It’s a bit slower doing a ciruit by circuit test, with a test lamp, but is simple to use, as opposed with a multi-meter and cost associated with and knowledge on how to use to conduct various electrical test.

Trying to save you a few bucks.

It does not sound if your problem is with your locomotives.

Sometimes solder joints on electrical connections can fool you, think that they are OK. All that it takes is a slight and a do mean a slight, smaller than hair line crack to disturb a electrical circuit.

Are all of your rail connectors tight?

How long is the cable lines (electrical wiring)?

Gage of cable?

Might try wiring in a few more terminals if you have long runs of cable.

3

Hard to believe that you posted this a week ago, and only got your first reply today.

When you have similar problems with multiple locos, it’s generally a track or wiring issue. You didn’t say whether you’re using DCC or DC, nor how big your layout is. My guess, though, since you say the problem goes away at higher speeds, is that you have one or more dead spots on your track. Do the headlights of your locos shine steadily or do they flicker? You say you cleaned your track, so we’ll assume that you really did, especially after gluing or painting.

I would say forget all your previous “I tested it so it must be ok” biases and really check your wiring and connectivity, especially where something might be loose and the connectivity is broken by the train passing over it.

4

Howdy, Jim,

I deep-sixed the only Atlas #6 that ever entered my layout space. Its dead frog didn’t get along with my short-pickup motive power.

If you find that you have the same problem the only sure cure is to power the frog. I seem to recall that the metal-frog Atlas turnouts have that option. The plastic frog version doesn’t.

I, personally, get around that problem by hand-laying my turnouts with solid, uninsulated frogs. Takes a bit of additional wiring, contacts on whaever throws the points and some strategically placed rail gaps, bit the result is power to every millimeter of both rails.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with bulletproof rail power)

5

Whether You are in DCC/DC, ADD, more feeders, especially after the frog. Sounds like you are relying on track joiners to carry power.Works when running fast, because momentum is pushing along the bad spots, but won’t work going slow. Atlas #6 is a good turnout, but there are little slide plates where the point rails connect to the stock rail and jumpers under the insulated frog, they become dirty and loose contact, so the rails after the frog lose conductivity, so if you are relying on the joiners to carry power they don’t. Add feeders, like I said earlier.

Take Care!

Frank

6

Add jumpers and feeders. Often, you can get voltage through a bad connection, but no current. Also, check if the tracks are perfectly level. I had a similar problem, and upon close observation, I noticed the trucks were lifting off the track ever so slightly at several spots. They only need to lift a thousandth to break the electrical connection. Also, the rail connectors may be breaking contact when the weight of the loco passes over them. Watch closely, to see if the track flexs or moves when a loco passes over it. Run a loco slowly, and when it stops, note the location, and press straight down slightly on the cab, and see if the loco moves. Also see if all locos stop at the same spot.

7

Run your locos over the trouble areas in a pitch dark room and watch very closely for tiny electrical sparks. Not just between the wheels contacting the track, but within the track itself too. This can show you where the contact is being broken as it happens.

8

All the frogs on Atlas Custom Line turnouts are insulated (dead) at least at the time I was laying my track, this was how Atlas turnouts where manufactured. On the Snap Switches, the frog was plastic, so you will have to live with a dead frog with these turnouts. With the Custom Line, the idea was that you had to supply a method of supplying power to the frog, by a separate device. Either some type of relay; or, a ground throw which also routed power to the frog. So, yep, the frog will be a dead spot to cross for you short wheel based locomotives.

Another problem with at least Atlas turnouts is the little rivet holding the point rails to the closure rails will tarnish/corrode, overtime and then the point rails will become a dead spot. If you have figured out how to fix this, please let me know! There are better turnouts available at much higher prices however. I have Shinohara scissors crossing (double crossover) that was pretty expensive and it has its’ problems also and is prone to short out, unless all four turnouts are thrown the same way.

It’s one of those: Ya’s pays your money and ya’s takes your chances!

9

Dc is not tolerant of voltage drops, especially at low speeds. Make sure all switches have feeders on all three legs.

When a engine stalls try using a screwdriver and push on nearby rail joiners. This is fixable.

10

With our comments and possible solutions to your current electrical problems, let us know, what you find out in the near future.

Like to know, for sack of knowledge.

11

You have not spelt out what types of locos etc you are using but assuming an Athearn 8 wheel switcher or equivalent…

Check that the track spacing between the insulated frogs is such that you are breaking contact with the wheel bases. The gap between the frogs may be such that all wheels on one side are losing contact and moving at switcher speeds will stop the loco.

All switches regardless of brand as they “age” tend to bow upwards. Double check that the wheels are not lifting off the rails or dropping in the frog as they pass through and breaking contact with the other side. When you speed through, the flywheels may be taking care of the broken current path until it picks up and you are noticing little difference in your speed. Possible solution could be to screw down the switch to flatten and level it off, then cover the presence of the screw

Check that the treads of the wheels are not bridging over the two rails leading to the frog and causing an intermittent short circuit stopping your train as it crosses whcih will stop a slow moving loco. Possible solution - use some nail polish and increase the insulated area by painting the top of the rail with the nail polish.

Again speeding will use the flywheels (if they are on your locos - I have no flywheels on most of my diesels remotored with Mashima motors) to overcome the temporary short.

Hope this helps

Trevor in Australia

12

You can drill small holes next to these closure rails next to the pivot, or even through it down through the benchwork and solder small wires directly to them, (the pivoting rail) and to your feeder wires. This eliminates the need for a good contact through the rivet. I have only one Atlas code 100, it’s in staging. It has worked fine this way for many years.

13

I suspect dead frogs or inadequate feeders, but it’s important to determine if you might be getting a short. While the train is running, put another engine with a lighted headlight or lighted passenger car on the track, within the same zone if you have multiple breakers. When the running train stalls, watch the light on the other engine. If it blinks, you’re getting a momentary short.

Also, if you do have separate zones with circuit breakers or auto-reversers, you may need to adjust the trip current.

I’ve got a number of Walthers-Shinohara #6 turnouts, and it greatly improved performance on my layouts when I powered the frogs.