I use 45 inches, because that allows me to put bookcases, workbench, and desk under the table and still be able to use them. Otherwise I would go a little lower. (The computer I’m typing this on is actually under my freight yard.)
Hey everyone, quick question…what is a good height for the top of my train table?
The perfect height is the one YOU choose, what is perfect for me may not be perfect for you. Personally, I would not go less than 42" but I’m also 6’2". Whatever height YOU choose will be the best one.
when discussing this, it is useful to NOT give inches. Rather, use your own body measurements to determine height.
Pros for eye-level:
the trains appear more realistic as they do when watching them
easier to work underneath for wiring
Pros for stomach or lower chest level
kids can watch
easier to reach stuff
In all, favorable goes to eye level if you can get one of those interesting reach ladders (sold by micromark or someone; can’t recall; and if you can get kid viewing platforms.
Personally, I don’t like a single height and there’s absolutely no reason to keep the benchwork at the same height. I slope mine from eye level to waist level around the wall type layout.
MY school was in a renovation and was getting rid of all their cabinets. So the scrounge that I am got them for all my bases. They are 30 inches high and used 2 x4 s and homosote for the top, all added up to 34 inches. I then have bar stools all around layout to sit and watch trains. It works for me, not too high and not too low to work under.
I find i am under the table a lot…wiring, getting to the access holes in the center of the layout…i’m still in construction…
Also, you may add an undertable storage yard as time goes by…
Headroom would be my advice…sit on the floor and set the table top to an inch or so above the top of your head…this will allow you to wire on the side, or sit under the table for wiring without having to bend your neck that 2-3 inches every time you stretch…much more comfortable to sit and wire with the connections in eyesight rather than to be on your back reaching up 36 inches, fumbling…if i had it to do over again that is the one change i would make to my benchwork…2 inches higher…
The height that fits you. Mine is 42 inches to the top. Wiring is only every now and then [if I add something]. I wanted to store train cars in bins and wife’s many seasonal decorations in bins under the layout. My design requires no access holes [that can be a factor]. The lower, compared to your height, the farther you can reach. At one time, I was going to make mine lower to accomidate an upper level. I had restrictions to get through the wall into another room. [I still may be able to do that later] All this has to be taken into consideration. There is NO “golden egg”.
When I first started I always heard that you should make the trains at about the same height as a kitchen countertop. That being said I am working on a small 4x4 layout (with 6% inclines, s-curves and everyother no-no in layout design) and put it on temporary legs 4 feet high. It makes the layout seem much more impressive.
In the end, it is your chance to be President of the railroad, and set whatever standards you wish.
I’m thinking that between 36 and 40 inches should work. There will be minimal storage underneath. I am going to utilize my 1/24th scale display cabinet underneath, so I have a lot of room for that. I’ll get some pics soon, if not tonight.
A long time ago, I read an article in which they advocate using one of those bookshelves with the adjustable shelves (About 7’ tall). Anyway, they put the shelf at different heights and put a locomotive on a piece or two of track at each height adjustment. Then they sat down in a comfortable chair that they expect to use in the train room. When you find the height that looks good to you when you are relaxed and comfortable, that is the best height for your layout. As others have said, keep in mind that you have to get underneath for the wiring, have to reach across or have access to each area and to all track. Keep all these in mind and you should be able to find what is right for you.
I built my lower level to 32 inches & have my computer there but no trains on that level now. Now my duckunder at the upper level I made 48 inches high, so I can actually sit in my computer chair & roll under, & in & out of the layout. It works great & I did that for when I get older & possibly can’t bend down to get under the duckunder !!
My layout is 30 inches to the top. The test track/kids layout is 24 inches to the top. My portable layout for train shows is adjustable (22 to 42 inches) but usually set at 24 inches. If you want a kid friendly table the 24 inch works real well. The 30 inch height is high enough to allow working on the top for long periods with out being a pain in the back, yet still allows you to reach a good distance into the layout. This really comes into play when you have your table against a wall. I have my table against two walls. I also have the table on rollers that allows the layout to be moved out from the wall to access all sides.
I made my hieght at eye level. It’s about 4ft. I always liked to see the trains running level instead of looking down at then. Have a old wooden chair I sit on at the edge of the table.