I’m have a hell of a time transfering my plan to the wood. My first, and biggest problem is that I’m using flex track. It’s not that I don’t know how to lay track or anything, it’s just impossible to get your track “strait” in the strait areas! Another thing is making curves. I saw on DPB Video #2 that he used a metal rular and nails to make the curve. This is utterly impossible. I’m using the thinnest and longest metal meterstick I can find, and either the nails come out or it doesn’t line up, and I have this triangle type curve. Another problem is cutting it. I can’t find anything in my garage that cuts the track well. Are there some tips everyone can share? I’ve looked up track laying and stuff but no one has come up with my problems.
I took some old masonite, carefuly drew various curves two inches wide, and cut half circles. I then used these as templates where I needed curves. I could trace around as much of the template as I needed with a felt tip pen. I then added transition areas by guessing. Once I got them cut out they can be used for years.
I use plywood templates to layout my curves, and one, two and four foot metal rules to layout the tangents and make other measurements. On foam, I use a marker to do the layout. On plywood, I use a carpenters pencil.
To cut the track, I use a cut-off disk in my Dremel rotory tool. My buddy swears by his Xuron Rail-Nippers.
To take your points in order - perfectly straight flex track requires a long straightedge (I use a 4 foot carpenter’s level,) plus sighting from the end at frequent intervals. This is a classic argument for making haste slowly.
Ideally, curves should have easements. Practically, it is easier to lay flex through an easement from tangent (straight) to true curve than it is to go directly from tangent to true curve a la sectional track.
Quick hints for laying curved flex:
Keep the sliding rail on the inside of the curve. That way there is no need to cut ties off the end of the sections of flex.
Gently bend the rails into a curve a little tighter than the one you want it to maintain for the last 4 inches or so on each end of each length of flex before laying it. That’s to make it more cooperative about accepting the curvature. Most kinks in flex track occur at rail joints.
Don’t cut the inside rail. Instead, slide the next rail over and stagger the joints on your curve. That, too, will reduce the probability of kinking. (Yes, pre-curve the overhanging end, and the end that will end up being slid down the tie strip to make room for it.)
Make a curved form with an outer radius of your desired curve minus 1/2 the length of your flex track’s ties. Anchor it to you sub-roadbed temporarily, then butt your flex up against it and anchor that ‘permanently.’ (In another thread, I mentioned that, “Permanent way” - the Queen’s English for track and roadbed - “isnt.”) Once the flex is secure, remove the form.
There are numerous ways to cut rail. To mention a few:
Xuron tool. This is a specialized cutter, meant only for cutting rail and not to be used for any other purpose.
Diagonal cutting pliers. I have a pair that I modified by grinding the “flat” side truly flat, which I have been using to cut rail sinc
Thanks…very helpful! I don’t quite get hints 2 - 4. If you could elaborate on them, it’d be appreciated. BTW, I am using an array of track where ~BOTH~ rails slide, so on either side I have overhang. The only place I’m going to have to cut the overhang is where the flex connects to turnouts(Which won’t have any extra overhang.). As far as cutting goes, I’m going to looking into the Xuron tool. I’ll also remember to trim the cuts and such. About easements…if I have room I will, but I am building on a 4 x 8.
I have also never had somone comment on my screen name. BTW, whats wrong with allisons? Everything right? LOL
Alernative to curve templates is to use curve guages (Ribbonrail)–both straight guages and curves with a multitude of radii (15-48 inches) are available.