So I read where tunnels should be made to be somewhat removeable in case something happens in the tunnel. Well I had planned on this to happen, but as I built it with styrofoam, it got bigger and bigger and bigger and somehow it is all glued down. However, there are parts of the tunnel that are open…just little parts where the styrofoam randomly ended up with fairly large gaps. So i thought ok, ill just have some openings and you can see the train as its in the tunnel…and I can reach in and grab derailed trains and maybe clean track via these key holes. But I want to texture the inside, so it doesnt look like styrofoam, while its in place. I was thinking of mayby trying to jam in some plaster cloth…and just as its drying see if i can toss on some minor rocks and hope they stick…and hope I can paint it later… I just hope I can do it…otherwise, I need to pop up this monster cavern and turn it upside down and texure it. I just love it as it is now and I think if I try to dislodge it, it will bust up.
I think your best option will be to cut the tunnel in half, so that you can remove it. It’ll be easier to do now, before you get all of your scenery down than after when your prized loco jumps the tracks.
Where there are problems there also are solutions.First,you want to texture your tunnel’s inside to hide the foam.Usually,only a short length of the tunnel’s innards can be seen by either entries,so all you need is to “texture” and /or paint a few inches at both ends and it will look natural.And don’t try to overdo it as most times that barely shows at all as most realistically looking tunnels are dark holes.
Having access holes to your tunnel is higly recommended for reasons you know.What I suggest is to plaster the outside of your mountain to suit your desires leaving the openings undone for a while,tapering their edges relatively smooth with the plaster.After your plaster has dried hard,you could manufacture foam caps that would somewhat fit these openings and THEN,use two layers of waxed paper in between,plaster these caps to match the external shapes of your mountain.The wax paper will have prevented the plaster surfaces from sticking together so that you’ll have removable “plugs” should you need to access inside your tunnel.You could then “scenic” these caps the same as the mountain so that they won’t show.Just an idea…for what it’s worthed.
Yes, you will want access to your tunnels. I’ve got a subway layout, and I’ve got a lot of tunnels. They are completely scenicked inside, because I run a video camera in the front of the subway train. The surface above has a total of 7 different lift-off sections for access. Right now, I’m developing techniques to hide the seams. One thing that is working pretty well is covering one side of the seam (the non-removeable side) with plastic wrap, and then laying on plaster cloth across the seam. Once the cloth is set, I can lift off the section and remove the plastic wrap, and I have a thin form-fitting shell that covers the seam. Then I cover the whole thing with Gypsolite and paint it. The seam is pretty hard to see.
Ditto to needed access, especially if your tunnels are more than a couple of feet long. To texture the first 2 or 3 inches, you might be able to use the Woodland Scenics “tunnel liner” molds. The mold, used with Hydrocal or plaster of paris, makes half a liner section … one side and half the top in a sort of upside-down “J”. If you left enough room in your tunnel, you might be able to cast two of them, paint them black or very dark gray, then “persuade” them into the tunnel opening, especially if the portal isn’t permanently attached yet. If you have to cut off part of the curved ceiling to get it inside, it probably won’t show. I’ve used them on all my tunnels and they look great. But it’s much easier to start with them, instead of squeezing them in later. Have fun & let us know how you do.
I don’t know what kind of scenery you plan to finish the mountain with, but if you’re modeling the East you can hide the seam for the removable tunnel roof using trees. If you cut a section out of the foam you not only have access, but then you can scenic the innards. Although my tunnel has an access hatch in the back as opposed to above, if you look at the picture here you can see it would be very hard to find the seam for the removable part if I had one:
thank you all for all of your replies. I broke apart the tunnel in a way where I have the supporting sections that form the arc around the curve…and support the top section (the mountain). so now I can make the bottom part, model the innards of the tunnel…and then i can model the top of the mountain seperately…and ill place that on top of this bottom part and just do the trees to hide any sections that might reveal its in 2 pieces. i caught it in time before the glue all dried. Thank you all again and your pics here of your mountains/tunnels are sooo nice…you inspire me to do as nice as your work.
