I have several “Old” TYCO engines that have never really been used. Would like to set up layout with DCC wirning. Any tips or ABCs on how to convert TYCO to DCC?
First of all, you need to run them on DC and see if they even run at all any more. They may run so poorly that they aren’t worth converting to DCC. DCC will not cure a poor performing motor.
Second, take the shell off and see what kind of motor and wiring is in the locomotive. I have ran into some Tyco that had a flat “pancake” motor mounted on and powering only the rear truck, rubber traction tires and plastic wheels on one axle, and with the front wheels only picking up power for the headlight and motor. These are not worth the cost of a decoder because they cannot be made to run well, no matter what. They only know two speeds: off and full blast.
Invest your money into something newer and better, such as an Athearn R-T-R locomotive that is DCC Ready.
Keep in mind that DCC will never make your locos run better, in fact, it makes them more finiky. Tyco have limited electrical pickups, high amp motors and warp speed. It can be done, but the loco will run horribly.
David B
It would be easier to convert an Athearn blue box loco and you’ll have a better loco to boot. I have a couple of Tyco locos myself that serve as shelf queens.
It depends on what you’re calling “old.” Tyco had several eras, the diesel models had two different types of motors. The bottom plate of the motor truck is the easiest way to tell, a metal plate is the older motor, and these may be worth converting if they still work. If they have the plastic plate, you’re probably looking at a couple “hanger queens.”
The steam models were basically the same through the production, using a 5 pole open frame motor. To isolate the one brush, you can cut a slot through the brass plate for electrical isolation, taking care not to cut the bakelite base. A drop or two of clear nail polish will insure insulation. Then just wire in the decoder per the instructions.
Remember, these will be about 1/2 to 1 Amp motors.
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Fallenreb,
Converting TYCO/Mantua engines to DCC is no harder than converting any other non DCC ready engine to DCC. I have converted 2 Mikes, 2 Pacifics, 4 0-6-0T switchers, a Prairie and two 0-4-0 with tender switchers to DCC. All the big engines have Tsunami decoders by Soundtrax and the rest fun Digitrax DH123D Decoders. I buy the decoders with the wire looms. Note that all the above are steam engines. The previous posters were correct when they said most TYCO diesels are not worth converting because they simply cannot be made to run as well as late model engines from almost anyone else.
There is a company called “Yardbird Classic Trains” (www.yardbirdtrains.com) that makes drop in can motor conversions for the old TYCO/Mantua steam engines. If you have a bad old motor, this is a great conversion, even for running on DC. (I’m not affiliated in any way, just a happy customer.) Not all my engines have can motors. Mantua motors can be made to run very smoothly, with some work. Yes, they do pull more current that can motors, but if you are running on a home layout, how many engines are you running at one time anyway? I like the old all cast metal steam engines. At the club I run on, my Mantua engines can outpull all the newer expensive steam engines from other manufacturers. No, they don’t have the detail the new stuff has, but they sure do operate as well or better and I can buy them on eBay dirt cheap.
John Allen
Dallas, Texas
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Why?
Why?
[;)][X-)][}:)][D)][alien][:-,][:-^]
Hi Reb, Welcome. [8D][#welcome],
Just curious. What type of Tyco locomotives do you have? Steamers? Diesel? If diesel, do you know which models (GP20, F9, Alco Century).
Because we can!
Isnt this like refilling a Bic lighter?
We seem to have lost our original poster.
(Diesel Power Torques)You need to isolate the motor brushes from the metal truck housing. There is a tab going from one brush to a screw on the motor housing. (IIRC) Eliminate this tab and then just solder wires to your brush tabs like any other motor. Make sure your decoder can handle at least 1amp. Those old motors draw pretty high amperage compared to newer can motors.
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