In a previous discussion I mentioned I bought a tyco mantua spirit of 76 from a train show
after thinking on it for awhile I figured the best course of action is to remove and replace the existing power torque system with something newer and more reliable
any suggestions on how to do This?
First of all, I would say that this will require money and effort. If this is for sentimental value, or if you have time and money to spare, that’s fine. Otherwise, be prepared to sink in the price of another loco, basically. There is always the shelf queen option, or the dummy engine on your layout.
That being said, if you want to change the drivetrain (the best option if you have the truck-motor type in your engine), the easiest way is to find a donor engine that is similar in type and size. You will basically swap the frame, motor and drivetrain. This page may help you find what the type of engine you have:
https://tycotrain.tripod.com/tycotrains/id22.html
Identify the engine, and find an equivalent Athearn engine. Check the internet for size information. A well-shelved local hobby shop is a goldmine for these projects - especially if the owner is open to help you find a donor engine. You may have do to a bit of grinding to make it fit…
Mel, a member of this forum, has excellent pictures on how to make the shells fit using nuts and screws.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/277807/3179182.aspx
Simon
I do not recall if you specified this in your previous post.
Tyco made at least three models that were marketed as “Spirit Of 76”.
One was a 4-6-0 steam locomotive, and then an F unit diesel and an Alco diesel. There very well could have been more examples.
It would be a different answer for each of these.
-Kevin
I believe the OPs earlier video answers that question, Kevin…
I cannot view the video for some reason. I get this error message.
This is unusual. I rarely have video problems on the forum.
-Kevin
Henry provide the the direct link later on in the thread. Kevin. Here it is re-posted:
Looks like the more modern diesel…
Tom
Yes, seems to match the Alco Century 430 from the link provided above.
Another thread of interest (just ignore the bad mouthing about Tyco):
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/48851.aspx?page=1
And DCC installation!
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1502
Simon
The older Blue Box Athearn frames are easily kitbashed to change the length. To fit the Rivarossi Krauss Maffei shell to the Athearn PA frame I cut the frame and extended it about a half inch.
The Athearn six wheel trucks are nothing close to the Krauss Maffei trucks but I’m not a rivet counter so close enough works for me.
Since most HO equipment is assembled with metric screws I stock most smaller sizes of metric hardware, M2 to M3.5 and several sizes of K&S Brass Strips.
I even build up frames for my Rivarossi articulateds.
This brass frame will be fitted with a pair of motors replacing the original motor.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
A few years ago, I found an old Tyco EMD F7 loco in one of my storage boxes and I think it is the first HO scale loco I’ve ever owned (late 1960’s). I thought it would be fun to include it on my current layout and so repainted the shell to ATSF freight livery and, after cleaning out the power truck, adding a basic DCC decoder. Unfortunately, the power truck gave out after only a couple months use. Not wanting to put another dime into this loco, it is now a shelf queen. Maybe if I find another power truck I’ll try to get it running again but I doubt it as it will never run as well as my newer locos.
That is the Tyco Alco Century 430 model.
Interesting prototype choice for a train set since only 16 were made in real life.
Atlas made a Yellow Box Century 425 model. If someone can verify these have the same wheelbase, that would be the donor mechanism I would hunt down.
I used a Proto-Power-West chassis under my Tyco F unit. It runs great, but they are not DCC friendly.
-Kevin
If it were up to me, I would replace the drive train with a Hobbytown of Boston universal chassis, it is designed to easily be adjusted to whatever length is needed and can be easily adapted to the the Tyco C430. I have one that I was going to make up until Bowser did the C430.
https://hobbytownofboston.com/?page_id=61
Just my [2c]
Rick Jesionowski
Thank Rick.
I did not know Hobbytown Of Boston was still making drive kits.
Given the prices these get on eBay, their catalogue seems like a bargain.
-Kevin
I second Rick. Hobbytown is back doing business and their chassis are some of the best available.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
Aging is not for wimps.
Nick, the owner is an active contributor on the Repower and Regearing group on Groups.IO
Rick Jesionowski
I agree with Rick the Hobbytown Drive Chassis is the best choice.
77408A Power Chassis Kit, 4 Axle AAR B Trucks, w/Flywheel Drive
If I recall the instructions with this kit include suggestions about how to adapt the Tyco Shell and chassis to fit, not difficult if you have some modeling experience. Nick at Hobbytown is good to work with ,but he has a full time job so he deals with Hobbytown after his job.
Ron High
Yes, but they are very easy to convert to DCC. As the motor brushes are already isolated from the chassis.
Dan
The easiest conversion would be to swap out the PT drive with the older MU-2 drive. The C430 shell was originally made to fit the Mantua MU-2 power truck, which uses a much larger and more reliable motor. If you can find that or a donor engine to take it from, it’ll be a direct fit!
His is the only voice of sanity regarding the OP’s repower inquiry. This suggestion is the cheapest, easiest, and most compatible way to go. Zero alterations to the shell and frame are required.
Agreed, but finding a good donor engine might prove difficult. As stated, the first generation was the better engine. The trick is to find the engine, and the right one!
Simon
True, the early productions of the MU-2 were the best, but all of them are better than the Power Torque. Even the later ones made by Roco for Tyco are good runners once you replace the weak original magnet.
The Hobbytown suggestion is also a great one of course. I’ve ordered a number of them since Nick restarted the company, and they’re all great runners!