Un-DCCing a locomotive

[Split from “Bachmann DCC-equipped Berkshire question”]

Hi, if I may borrow this thread to a limited degree, I just bought a used one of these Pere Marquette Berkshires. I run DC only and the box says this is compatable with a regular DC analog layout and power pack. It did not come with instructions, so my question is how do I get it to run on my DC layout? (I don’t have any DCC power packs, etc.) It ran on the DCC test track where I bought it, but won’t on my DC layout. I looked up the instructions on Bachmann’s site, and it said you could install a dummy plug in place of a decoder. As I have no experience with “un-DCCing” anything, (this is my first DCC equipped loco) would it be better for me as a novice to go with the dummy plug (and where I can buy one), or go Sheldon’s route? Also, if I went with Sheldon’s method, what is involved and how hard is it to do? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

if you have a plug (possibly the one below), you could simply bend some wires and insert them into the plug. connect pins 1&8 and pins 2&7. if you want lights, you would have to solder little wyes.

Greg accidently I’m sure, eroded, the motor pins are 1 to 8 for the right rail and 4 to 5 for the left rail.

This is the wiring diagram for a Bachmann 36-057 Dummy Plug for DC operation.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

Thanks Mel and Greg, mine and Rich’s earlier efforts to answer this got deleted…

I remove all decoders because they will not work with my Aristo Craft Train Engineer throttles.

Sheldon

Are you guys suggestion he solder directly in the female socket or that he get one of these plugs and solder to that?

https://www.trainworld.com/manufacturers/train-control-systems/TCS-1254-8-pin-NMRA-plug-circuit-board/

Bachmann included little three prong jumpers with their locos.

Sorry no photos.

Or you can solder the top of a plug, many brands of DCC ready locos came with just that.

Sheldon

I would never solder directly to the factory DCC connector. Personally I stock the micro connectors off eBay, they can be cut to any number of contacts and are compatible with the NMRA 8 pin connector.

They come in dual row 2x40 male and female (the round pin connectors are compatible with the DCC NMRA connector) header strips as well as single row 40 pin male and female.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=2.54mm+Round+Pin+Header+Strip&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15

thanks mel

no, just bend some thick enough wire and push it into the socket

Most if not all decoders made in the last 10-15 years are ‘dual mode’ meaning they will work on DC or DCC, so if your used engine has a DCC decoder installed, it will work on DC. However, there is a CV (control value) setting on decoders that allow you to set the decoder to not operate on DC. If the prior owner did that, you would need to find someone who can program decoders and they can adjust it for you.

If what you’re saying is you bought a used engine that doesn’t have a decoder, but also doesn’t have the dummy plug installed, then as noted above you’ll need to either get a dummy plug, or take out the light board and re-wire the engine. Given that dummy plugs can be found online for a dollar or two, I’d just buy a new dummy plug and plug it in.

Could you repost what you did in the original thread?

The Katos I have came with plugs in place for DC, and the plugs are like a 3 legged staple, one plug connecting 4,5 and 6, the other plug connecting 1,2 and 8.

Athearns RTR come with a jumper plug that plugs into the wire harness that comes off the light board.

I have a couple of Bachmann Spectrum dash8-40cw that came with DCC on board, I’ll look and see what they are about as far as going to DC.

Mike.

Respectfully, your information is not completely correct.

First, the OP explained that the loco has a decoder, was tested on a DCC SYSTEM, but will not run on DC.

Second, dual mode decoders will not work on ALL DC systems, their performance on DC is usually poor at best, with high starting voltages and poor throttle control.

Third, any DC system that uses pulse width modulation speed control will set a dual mode decoder crazy and the loco will not run correctly if at all.

That includes a number of the better DC throttles including the Aristo Craft Train Engineer.

The best DC performance is only possible with the decoders removed.

Sheldon

Mike, not sure what other info you mean, but I will try to get back to you later, have to go now.

Sheldon

After rereading your post, yes, go with the dummy plugs. They look like a 3 prong staple, you need 2 of them.

Scroll down to the bottom left hand corner of page 3, it shows how to install the plugs.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/50901.pdf

I don’t see the 2 plugs in the list of availiable parts for that locomotive, but they are kind of a generic thing that would work with any loco that comes DCC equiped, so you should be able to contact Bachmann about purchasing them.

As far as how the plugs go into the socket, it’s the same arrangement that I talk about in my previous post about my Kato locomotives.

Good luck!

Mike.

More infomation, here is the Bachmann part:

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=L1144-PCB02

If this came with a dual mode decoder, ( runs on DC or DCC) before you try anything else, do a decoder reset.

If that doesn’t work than get the plug.

Mike.

I’m not sure the OP has access to a DCC system. In one of the “lost posts” I said that running on DC might have been disabled by the PO.

If he has no plans to get into DCC it sounds like removing the decoder is the best way to go.

Anyone serious about staying with DC should remove decoders, as per my post above.

Sheldon

Your right Henry, if he doesn’t have access to a DCC system, he can’t do a reset.

So just remove the decoder and install the plug.

Mike.

The diagram pages at the Bachmann site show the adapters and eight pin plug which I had posted last night.

The OP does not have to join. Just go an look. The loco diagram, parts list is there also. A full desccription of that loco.

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68_198&zenid=2t1uqsa3rm0j6km36sdr5dheh4

Someone posted a link.

Google bachmann forums. The link will pop right up. Excellent reference for any Bachmann owner. I have Bachmann locos.

I probably have the clips somewhere. never used them.

One time I bought an eight pin plug, they match, and soldered the correct pins for a friend years ago.

If he gets someone to change the CV, I do not think he will like the response of the loco. Takes at least five volts just to wake up the decoder.

Rich

I agree with Sheldon: remove the decoder completely, as operation with it in place is unacceptable, with poor throttle response on DC.

Basically, you need to connect the wipers on the drivers to one of the contacts on the motor, and connect the uninsulated wheels on the tender, using wire running from contacts inside the tender, to the other. I can’t help you with headlight connections, though, as I don’t use them.

Wayne

Thanks for all the tips. I’m getting a plug from Bachmann, seems like the easiest fix. I’ll let you know how it works when I get it installed.