I have some trains running on my HO DC unfinished (to be quickly changed over to NCE shortly) layout now after a two year period. Also sorry to have used Bachmann track but that’s a story for another time.
I’ve seen various videos of people uncoupling cars using long pointed sticks something like barbeque sticks. I went out and bought some of these at the super market and attempted to try to uncouple some cars but with little success.
The cars involved do have Kadee and Kadee type couplers so the do open and close.
I’m still lifting up the cars to separate them then placing them back on the track and getting the trucks aligned with the track is a real pain.
Would someone on this forum be good enough to tell me what the trick is in getting the cars uncoupled using this small stick.
Otherwise, try flattening your skewer like a slotted screwdriver so it will slide between the knuckles then give it a slight twist. Of course, just like the real couplers, there has to be slack between the cars.
Some folks mention using 18 ga. tapestry needles as they believe the wood skewer is too soft and can sometimes push too hard downward on the coupler and the force causing the draft gear to loosen or break.
I may play around with the needle idea. I have a few special needles I borrowed from Mrs. Pullman’s craft stuff that flatten somewhat and may work better than the skewer. For now I’ll chuck one in a pin-vice to try it out.
There was an extensive discussion of these skewers under the title “Uncoupling Magnets vs. Skewers” that was first posted under the Layouts & Layout Building portion of this forum on September 17th. Within the string there are lots of tips on the proper use of skewers. Two items that may be of use to the OP are that the stick (skewer) should be a bit flattened on the end and that it should be given a slight twist to separate the couplers’ fingers. Easy, peasy after just a little practice. You can buy fancy-shmancy, designed for this purpose, or buy a pile of kabob skewers at your supermarket and jimmy them a tad. Many spend their bucks on something slightly less mundane.
Ever try using the little cocktail hor d’oeuvre swords? They are tapered and have a flat triangular cross-section. As you stick them into the knuckle, the taper opens the coupler with very little side- or twisting pressure. Combines the features of a round pointed skewer and a flat-blade screwdriver.
It does require conversion of your entire rolling stock fleet though. Once converted, you just hold a small magnet over the top of the coupler and pull the locomotive away. Click on “Frequent Questions” then “How they work” for a visual demonstration.
The skewers do work, although I found out, quite by accident, actually, that the thicker skewers work the best. The Skewers I used to use were about 0.10 - 0.15" diameter until someone gave me thicker skewers, which are 0.20" diameter. Seems that on the thicker skewers that the taper of the tip, when inserted, separates the knuckles better, thus making it easier to uncouple. I did struggle to uncouple cars with the thinner skewers.
Take a look at the Kadee description on coupling and un-coupling with scale knuckle couplers here.
Eventhough the description is for Kadee products, the basic concepts of uncoupling are the same for all scale knuckle-type couplers.
Keep in mind- -even with the prototypical couplers- -there needs to be slack between the couplers to remove the locking pin from the coupler head to release the coupler jaw and separate the cars. Under tension the pins cannot be removed.
Whether you are using uncoupling magnets, picks or skewers, you still need to “slack” the couplers to release the tension between the couplers.
Then the uncoupling device of choice can be used effectively.
If the couplers are still under tension the jaws can’t release- -on scale and prototypical knuckle couplers.
Personally I prefer the between the rails Kadee magnets over picks or skewers. That’s just my preference. (Add snarky comments here.)
The one caveat to between the rails magnets is, if there is any slack in the couplers while passing over the magnets an unintended uncoupling will occur- -hence the reason some modelers do not like the between the rails magnets.
On visits to the museum I have seen the members use picks, skewers and the H.O.G. (Hand Of God)- -picking up one car to disengage the couplers and then, using thumb and finger on each side of the trucks, to realign the wheels to the track methods.
Just remember, a coupler will not release under tension. Some slight compression is needed for effective uncoupling.
One other thing. If your coupler height is off (i. e. one coupler droops, thus making the adjoining coupler higher than the other), then uncoupling becomes much more difficult with the skewers, or probably with any other uncoupling method as well. Using a Kadee or an NMRA coupler height guage will help maintain proper coupler height on all rolling stock
My first venture with Sergent couplers was a BNSF coal train. Since this train is NEVER switched (well, hardly ever, as as the song goes), I put dummy couplers on almost all the cars. On a few, I put a dummy and a Sergent. On the road engines, I put Sergents. On the switching locos, I put Sergents. So, for a whole unit train, I used 12 Sergents. I even equipped a few cars with dummy/Kadee couplers, just so others could play.
I ran the train on two Free-mo setups and had no coupler problems.
My next one was a bit less ambitious. I have a gas-electric and trailer. They normally run stand-alone. So why not Sergents again? Actually, the prototype of the gas-electric was known to haul several freight cars. That bit of fun can wait awhile.
My next ventures in Sergenting will be in the passenger train and the intermodal area. These trains, too, are never switched–essentially unit trains. And they tend to have dedicated power.
As I get more comfortable with them, I will equip more cars and locos with Sergents.
This is what I am working on at the moment as well.
The H-type couplers require 36" radius+ for operation with 85’ passenger cars (I was testing using Rapido Osgood Bradleys). Walthers cars would benefit from the tailor made coupler, as the standard length coupler puts too much pressure on the diaphragms, which causes coupling and uncoupling problems.
I still lift and uncouple mine the old school way, and yes you’re right it is a pain in the neck to do it that way but I model N scale so I’m concerned that I might break the couplers if I try to use a tool…
Count mine as another vote for magnets. Not even I can knock a car off the track if I am not touching it. (Okay, I could bump into the layout, I suppose).