I’m thinking of putting one or two in my layout…the Micro-Trains ones that install under the track look best to me. I can still ballast over those, right? And to uncouple…I just roll the cars over, and the magnet splits the couplers?
Thanks in advance! [:D]
I can answer the second but not the first, simply place the couplers on the coupled cars on the magnet and pull away, the cars you uncoupled will sit there.
Wait, I think you can put ballast over them. At my train club some are under the ballast. I suggest marking them with rails or something of that nature. Since I don’t know everything I suggest you ask someone else as well before you do so.
Good luck!
Don’t do it! Unless you are planning on the electro-magnet that you can turn off and on when needed. One of our local clubs is determined to remove all the magnets off the switching module because they cause a seemingly unlimited number of problems - uncoupling when not wanted, not uncoupling when wanted, catching on the “gladhands”. One friend who operates on a regular basis has actually cut off all the gladhands in order to superdetail his rolling stock. He uncouples with a tool or a bamboo skewer. His argument is that that’s the way the real railroads do it!
Andrew
The Micro Trains uncouplers definitely work and yes you can ballast over them. I’ve a few and I’ve done just that. Yes, as the couplers go over the magnets they ARE effected, but I’ve not had many de-couples at all. And they are relatively cheap. I’m OK with them. But if you want uncouplers that hold no fear whatsoever of unwanted uncoupling, (but more expensive) go electro magnet. You can then turn it on and off when you need it and it won’t interfere at all. I’m considering re-building my layout and I’ll probably move to electro magnets. Hope that helps.
Who makes the electromagnets?
Kadee for one - - - http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page86.htm
Can’t tell you much about the Micro magnets but I am using Bachman magnets and they work well. I have ballasted over them and they work fine. I get occasional false uncouplings but if I add some weight to the offending car, it generally resolves the problem. Also, don’t put them on too sharp of a curve becasue you can have some problems with them not uncoupling. I think I read somewhere that the minimum radius is about 36 inches. Hope this helps.
Tom
How do you do that?
Try getting some slack between the two cars to be uncoupled. The insert a small flat bladed screwdriver between the couplers and twist. Kadee makes a tool but I had a small screwdriver from an old sewing machine that works well. With a little practice, you will find it quite easy to uncouple a car exactly where you want it.
Tom
As Tom pointed out, the key to uncoupling by hand is a bit of slack (actually it is the key to all uncoupling - that’s just how the Kadees work).
Anyway, the technique is pretty simple. You can even do it one handed once you have gotten some practice. Just pu***he cars towards each other to create slack in the couplers. Insert the skewer or tool (Micro-Mark sells them, or use a very small bladed, but long handled screwdriver). Twist . Push one or the other uncoupled couplers to the side as you move the cars slightly apart - just far enough so they do not recouple.
Andrew
in my experience the most effective manual uncoupler is a piece of very stiff wire, bend 90 degrees twice at one end and use this “hook” to grab one of the KD gladhands, pull it gently and at the same time create a bit of slack between the cars.