I’ve had several small mining/industrial layouts that featured lots of switching. I’ve always used, and had good results, an “uncoupling wand” to reach between cars and uncouple. I’m now building my fourth layout and the first with curves broad enough to run mainline passenger trains and I’ve run into an unforseen hitch. Most of my passenger equipment has functioning diaphrams between the cars, some are full-width and some are the normal “skinny” ones around the doors. There is not enough room to slide an uncoupling wand between the cars.
So, how do you guys who actually operate passenger trains uncouple? By “operate”, I mean changing the consist of the train, switching in and out of head-end cars, sleepers, etcetera on the layout and not just in some staging area where an 0-5-0 won’t be so clumsy. Are electromagnets the only solution or is there something else? I hadn’t planned on them but it’s not too late as I’m still in the track-laying phase. If it matters, I’m modeling 1950 in HO and have both lightweight and heavyweight trains.
If you can take up slack, you can use the uncoupling wand to reach under the car, and move the glad hand of one of the couplers to release the knuckles.
I would suggest uncoupling magnets. Kadee sells some that all you have to do is file down the ties, so you can install them on existing track work. There are magnets you can install under the track, but this will require you to rip up track work. The choice is up to you.
I tried two options here. Both use a wand. First, without melting anything, I reformed the business end into a small U shape so the tip faces up. And came at the couplers from underneath them. This was a less than exceptable procedure. It worked, but since you cant see the couplers from the bottom like you can from top, it was mostly trial and error.
The second idea was to take a hammer to a spare magnet (you can buy them at the dollar tree cheap!). Once in small pieces I afixxed it to the end of a small piece of wooden dowel (wand). The application was to come at the magnetic “fake air hose” of the Kadee from the side just above the rail (thus why i used a wood dowel!). Pull it to one side, GENTLY. This works best if there is slack in the train.
It is tricky as you can magnetically grab the opposing couplers air hose too. Takes practice. I summize two sticks at once would work but that just seems too much hassle. Or is it?
Under the track magnets (energizing or not) are great. But thats if you stop at the same place every time. Switching doesnt always lend itself to that. A combo of both methods would be recommended.
Instead of breaking up a magnet to make your own uncoupling tool, you could go to an auto store and get a retreving magnet. They come in several strengths, I’d get a light duty one for uncoupling. They telescope and you could bend the tip to reach under the diaphram from the side, with the tool verticle to the table.
I have a one (Harbor Freight +/- $3) that I use to remove coal loads from hopper cars. Hadn’t thought of using one as an uncoupling tool.
This is a great question since I will be running into exactly the same problem with my passenger cars. A while ago I purchased a bunch of the Kaydee electromagnetic uncouplers, but as has already been said, they will only work where they are located which may not always be the most convenient location.
Huh…never realized one could file down the ties to accept a kadee bar magnet with installed/ballasted track. Is this a common practice? I always assumed the magnets would be too high with “some” tie material remaining.
If you have code 100, and if the Kadee dimensional diagram is correct (http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page321.htm), it appears that you need to scrape about 0.015 inch off the top of the ties to get the top of the magnet at the same level as the top of the rails. If I were to do that, I’d use whatever my favorite scraping tool of choice that was within reach.
I believe that in theory the code 100 magnet should actually be able to sit right on top of the ties even though that would make the top surface sit 0.015 above the rail top. The Kadee installation instructions (http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page5.htm) show the uncoupling wire at 1/32 inch above the rails, which should give one about 0.015 inch clearance to the magnet top. But I don’t like anything between the rails sticking above the rail tops…too much chance of snagging dragging equipment.
If you happen to have a magnetic wand for the lights of a Rapido passenger car, it can be used to open couplers if you hold its magnet beside the couplers.
Alternatively, use your uncoupling pick, and use it to pull one of the trip pins to the side. Reach diagonally below the diaphragms to do this.