What (if anything) differently you do for weathering different types of freight cars? For instance, I’ve read some use a soldering iron near a gon or open-top hopper to bend the frame. Not looking for weathering tips in general, but specific cars.
Also, you weather more for older cars? I’ve got newer ones that I just remove the glossy look,
TIA!
Be careful if you pursue a soldering iron to deform bodies as they are typically injection molded at 350 or so degrees F. I have not pursued that approach as examples I have seen look just like a car dented by a soldering iron.
Cars fresh from the paint booth immediately begin accumulating dust, and then streaks if it rains. Even new wheels usually have acquired a thin film of rust fresh as they traveled from ASF or whomever. Older cars become quite dirty, in particular the ends and underframe, even before dents gouges and other causes result in rust.
This appears to be the same thread that you’ve got going in the Layouts sub-forum. [:-^]
If you use the soldering iron method, the trick is to not touch it to the car. Instead, place it inside the car, near where you wish to create a bulge in the car’s side. When the plastic softens (you’ll develop a “feel” for when that occurs) remove the iron and use a rounded-end object to press against the softened plastic. I use a large, chisel-tipped 200 watt iron to do the gondola shown in your other thread. No point in having to wait all day for the plastic to soften. [swg]
Wayne
I like that indirect approach to heating the body.
Here’s the thing to remember before you start denting away.
The customer has the right to reject a car he believes to be unsafe for loading.Other railroads could refuse interchange of the car if they feel its unsafe for travel…
So,with that in mind the dents and dings should be kept small in order to have a serviceable car for your customer.