When using the Fast tracks tool with code 83 rail, I notice the amount of rail that is removed with the file is considerably less as the protruding rail nears the jig surface. I can remove 90% with little effort but that last 10% takes more time than the first 90%. There is, of course, more rail exposed to the file but I think the cause is the file “rocks” from side to side and makes contact with the tool surface rather than the rail. I have lessened this by placing the file on the bench top and drawing the tool across rather than holding the tool in one hand and the file in the other. It still takes a lot of time to bring the rail down however. Does anybody have a better solution?
Nope. The sharp rail tip is more blade-like and flexible, and I can see it sagging tighter into the groove as you get to filing that last little bit. So, I just get ‘close’, and call it a day. From my perspective, the biggest trick is to get a proper recess filed into the foot of the stock rail. That is where I pay the most attention, and once I can get the point to lie well and tight to the stock rail, I never seem to have any issues.
Crandell
I hope this isnt a change of subject for this thread, but has anyone tried using the point filing tool with a benchtop disc sander? I would think you could use the point jig to hold the rail securely while pushing gently against the circular sanding disc to form the point rather than using a hand file. It seems like this would be much faster and easier. Any experience or thoughts on this?
Fast Tracks doesn’t recommend power filing as it removes metal from the tool as well and wears it out faster. Seems like a good idea though.
I dunno, as the “blade” end of the point gets thinner, if the power sander snags on it at all you’ve pretty quickly got a metal pretzel. If you kink the rail, it’s basically time to start over.
Not to mention the heat buildup at the point as well.
I would never even attempt such a process, but a dentist or brain surgeon might consider it. I think the snagging could be a problem for the majority of us who can’t control our hands so finely, but the big problem would be the erosion of the face of the tool.
However, I do use a bench grinder to make the point recesses in the stock rail. Heat can be a problem, and if you can’t control your upper body and hands well, you could end up damaging our ruining your stock rail.
Crandell
Coarseness and pressure are important with either the power tool or hand file. Also, don’t forget to clean the file with a fine mesh metal brush as you go.
Richard
A one inch bench top belt sander cuts rail pretty fast. Just use the tool as a gage to check your work.
Can you mount the tool in a vise to free your other hand?
Yes John, it can be held in a vise.