Hi,
I am geting back into HO modeling after about 30 years away. I have a lot of old brass Atlas track that I have cleaned up and plan on using. I will be using the terminal track sections for power as I am not into the soldering yet. I was wondering if anyone has used these and figured out a way to hide the terminal block section with a building or other structure.
Thanks,
Kevin Coyle
First of all, I would throw away the brass track. You’ll have nothing but problems with it.
Second, I would buy a soldering iron and learn how to use it. It’s not that hard…
Just don’t use the same color wire for the entire RR.
Good luck,
gtirr
well I usually use those sections on a more hidden area of the layout, out of line of sight
You could try a speeder shed and lead-on tracks.
This sounds like me around the beginning of the year. Lots of old brass track, including a few terminal sections. I’m bundling it up to donate to someone else who is trying to do model railroading on a college “salary.” I’ve gone all nickel-silver.
The problem with brass is tarnishing. It requires cleaning much more frequently than nickel-silver. I also found that all my old brass flex-track had gotten very stiff, so it wasn’t really very “flex” anymore. A lot of the sectional track and turnouts had cracked ties, and the rails weren’t solidly attached any more.
But, if you insist on using the old track, you can still go out and buy rail joiners with wires attached. I think they put about 18 inches of wire on them. They are nickel-silver joiners, of course, but they will work with your brass track. When you buy a few of these, you’ll look at them and realize that it’s time to learn how to solder. They’re nothing more than standard rail joiners and wire, but a few pairs of them will end up costing enough to buy rail joiners for your whole layout.
I second the suggestion to go with nickle silver rail.
There is another alternative to either soldering or using that terminal track section.
Because it is a small item relatively few hobby shops seem to carry it, but Atlas also makes a Code 100 nickle silver railjoiner with the wire already soldered onto it for you. Thus you can either run the wires under the track to the power pack, or drill a couple of small holes, run the wire down below the benchwork, and run it over to your power source.
Dave Nelson
Deep six the brass and learn to solder. I presume you want a railroad that runs, brass track will give you nothing but headaches. Look up soldering threads on the forum. The topic comes up often with lots of good advice. You will need so many power feeds in all kinds of locations that unless the layout is very simple, power tracks and rail joiners with wires are not practical (and they are expensive compared to wire and solder).
I’m with the rest of the guys…nix the brass rail…unless you enjoy cleaning track more than running the railroad…Nickel silver track is the way to go…and also you really need to learn to solder…you can get a soldering gun or iron, solder, and soldering flux paste for under $40.00 and it’s as easy as 1-2-3 to do…without soldering the rails at the joiners, you can end up with faulty electrical conductivity throughout the trackwork and rails that can separate and get out of alignment which can cause derailments…soldering is really easy…1. let the gun or iron get hot, 2. daub on a small amount of soldering flux paste to the work, (solder the outside portions of the rail joiners) 3. quickly touch the iron and the solder to the work until the solder flows onto the joint 4. file away any slag that may build up on the inside or top of the rail with a flat sided jeweler’s file …nothing to it.!.. here is my webshot photo album which can show you how to solder track there are pictures with an explaination just right of the picture…click the next button to take you through the series of pictures on installing track
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/200142080vaBTvT chuck
Even if you like brass, I would think that after being in storage for 30 years the amount of oxidation on it would be such that it would take forever to get 'em all clean again. And you’d have to clean more than just the tops of the rails. I think you’ll find that the rail joiners have also oxidized and will need to be cleaned as well as the part of the rail that comes in contact with the joiners. Depending on the amount of track you have, that could turn into quite the chore.
Go with the Nickel Silver. I think you’ll be happier. Track is one area that skimping a few dollars in the short run will cost a gold mine in grief in the long run.
im learning to solder and its really going pretty well. so im sure you can too. my gal has ordered me one of the new cold heat solder irons . im looking forward to trying it and being free from the cord of my big bulky weller.
there was a very good tip on here somewhere about soldering your wires to the bottom of the rail and not to the side. it was very helpful and you might want to try to get a look at this method.
best regards and good luck with you RR. John
Hi,
Thank you for the information. I think I will start buying new track as I need to buy switches .
Kevin
i don’t like to solder, too much can go wrong. sometimes i just buy railjoiners with the wires soldered on. otherwise i simply drill a hole through the web of the rail and wrap the wire around the bottom part. i coat this connection with dilectric grease (silicone) to keep the continuity effective over time. it’s easy to do, and easy to undo.