I like to think I can be just as nit-picky as anyone when it comes to trackage . . .
When I designed my layout, a specific criteria was for long continuous mainline runs with areas of straight track to allow trains to stretch their legs. After all, that is what prototype railroads look like. But in doing so I knew that I would have to actually build long continuous mainline runs with straight track:
I used 24" and 36" steel straightedges (from my old drafting days) and 18" to 48" lengths of aluminum channel, but even so there will always be burbles and kinks here and there. Some will never be seen under ordinary conditions because operators and guests will not be abe to get into position for the viewpoint of the camera held over the edge of the layout at arm’s length (I don’t have a selfie stick!). Other flaws can be easily d
One thing that I am learning is to drill the pilot hole almost the full length of the nail. The nail still grips the plywood but with a nearly full depth pilot hole, it is easier to remove the track if relocation is necessary.
Neal, do you drill pilot holes and, if so, how deep?
I like to think I can be just as nit-picky as anyone when it comes to trackage . . .
When I designed my layout, a specific criteria was for long continuous mainline runs with areas of straight track to allow trains to stretch their legs. After all, that is what prototype railroads look like. But in doing so I knew that I would have to actually build long continuous mainline runs with straight track:
I used 24" and 36" steel straightedges (from my old drafting days) and 18" to 48" lengths of aluminum channel, but even so there will always be burbles and kinks here and there. Some will never be seen under ordinary conditions because operators and guests will not be abe to get into po
As I say, I am not challenging anyone’s assertion that there track is “pretty straight”. But, as Robert indicates, or at least implies, it may not be perfectly straight. But the mini cam doesn’t lie. Is it laser straight?
While I no longer use sectional track, only as a beginner some 14+ years ago, sectional track can be considered laser straight since the rails are fixed into the ties, but flex track is not fixed in place, so can it ever be truly laser straight on a layout?
Rich, I don’t know, but I own several lazers, and those sections I photgraphed are still in place and operational - not sure if the lazer beam will show up in a photo, but I surely have the means to check them with a lazer…and I will.
…drops mic on stage. Or possibly I just don’t get golf.
My vote is on Sweepsticks or Ribbon Rail guages. You can hold these in place with a Fast tracks filing jig or some other small heavy object while you nail.
What I plan to do is to run a short train with the mini cam to video my track work as i move along. I will try to do that in the next few days.
Sheldon, I appreciate your efforts to take those laser photos. Your track work looks awfully good. But, I believe that the most critical test is the mini cam. You cannot get anymore up close and personal than that.
I moved one of those marker sticks up and down the whole 11 feet, the lazer was right on the rail the whole distance. The margin of error was about half the width of the beam, or about 1/32".
Respectfully, I have no plans to own a mini cam on a flat car. For me it’s another one of those things like sound…
Sheldon, I have no doubt from what you are saying and what you are showing that your track is either laser straight or the next best thing to it. And, I am not suggesting that you purchase mini cam to video it.
It’s just that in my case I already own a mini cam, and I do intend to video my track work to see how close I can come to laying laser straight track.
I understand. As I explained before, my track is that straight because the method allows adjustment.
The caulk allows the track to be shifted side to side and checked/double checked with the straight edge. By having the roadbed straight in the first place, or by having good edge lines drawn for the edge of the ties in yard areas, the straight edge can be progressively moved along to insure straightness.
The thick PolySeamSeal caulk has a high tack holding the track still while still allowing movement for adjustments.
I may have even used a 6’ level for some of those long stretches.
It is my view that nailing the track into such a hard surface is you enemy, predrilling or not.
And, that is the further advantage of homasote roadbed like Cascade. You use straight sections for straight track, unlike cork.
The straight sections have been milled in a table saw and/or router table of some sort. They are straight, making it easier to lay them straight, and easier to lay straight track on top of them.
In my photos, the 3/8" plywood that is between the OSB deck and the roadbed were made on my table saw - straight as well…
If I had to say, I suppose I’d say my track is ‘pretty straight’; not perfect, not by a long shot. I took great pains and laid it as well as my meager talents allowed. I don’t have a laser level, but I put my cheek directly on the track and sighted down the rails like a rifle. And I saw a bunch of little bitty tiny (for lack of a better word) kinks. I corrected whichever ones I could in the time allowed, but some simply could not be perfectly aligned. But overall I am very pleased with the final results. Like I did say, the remaining imperfections are barely visible to the naked eye, even with that cheek business. And many vistas are not available to the casual observers.
Regarding cameras . . . single lens cameras do not perceive things the same way as human eyeballs. Especially the short focal length fisheye lens cameras that Rich is talking about. I’ve seen dozens of YouTube videos made from cab viewpoints, and smack dab every single one of them shows tracks with exaggerated warpage. Not most every one, not almost every one, every one. I don’t watch them any more for this reason. Watch one, any one, and notice that as the train passes a signal mast or a building
