Chris, I think that this is a very personal decision. The eye level height affords a track-side view of the trains but it also can make reaching things difficult. Eye level for a 6’ adult may be above eye level for a lot of visitors. So IMO, while some experts may push the eye level notion, it may well not work for all. My preference is a layout that my kids can reach, and I can enjoy while rolling around on a wheeled chair.
My layout room storage falls into 2 subsets:
- Shelves above and below the along-the-wall ROW.
- Roll (or slide) storage under the benchwork away from walls.
My along-the-wall ROW is supported on shelf brackets mounted on slotted tracks screwed into the studs. Near-identical shelf brackets support regular shelving (actually, junk wood shelving[:I]) above and below the ROW. When/if I build an upper level along the wall(s) some of the above-the-layout shelving will go away. The bottom shelves are high enough to clear plastic storage tubs standing on the floor, which, in turn, are narrow enough to get inside the 18" clearance line below the ROW.
Most of my layout is on benchwork that is accessible from both sides. The area where I am working is mostly clear except for my under-layout creeper. The other areas (and some floor space that will soon have benchwork above it) host castered cabinets, plastic storage tubs, items in large boxes, house-size trash cans, stacked 2 x 4 foot bundles of extruded foam, soda (bought in bulk on sale) in plastic stackable cases - and my wife’s self-propelled golf caddy. At present it’s not very organized. Once the need for access from below has ended, things will become a lot neater (Madame Neatfreak will see to that!) I also expect that the golf caddy will end up a lot closer to the door than it is now.
The final plan calls for curtains below the fascia, to hide the junk stored items.
As for rolling stock, I have shelf brackets on another wall across from the “ferry slip” (cassette attachment point) to hold cassettes (lengths of steel stud) for my “surplus to the layout” rolling stock.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
My shelf layout is no wider that 18 inches and has 50 inches under it. I haven’t lost any useable space for furniture such as tables and cabinets.
I mentioned this is an ealier post. My neighbor, who is a rehabber, gave me 10 kitchen cabinets that he was replacing. I am using them as the base for my layout, ergo, no bench or leg construction.
My layout modles will fit on top of them and be bolted together. I have lots of drawers to keep everything uncluttered and out of sight, but near at hand.
AND, they are FREE!
I have shelves for everything from old brass track, to scenery stuff, to an old dresser for rolling stock, to a cabnet for manuals, and everything train related.
At the present time I have nothing under the layout. I used to have all the boxes and packages that my train stuff came in, but it seemed I was all the time pulling the stuff from under the layout so I could add a building with interior lights or street lights. I removed everything and put in another barn inside of a couple of the tall lockers, ( they kind you used to see in military barrecks) this way I can get to the underside of the layout and still have access to all my supplies. On the next layout I am thinking along the idea of some kitchen cabnets for the supports of the benchwork that I will custom build for the sole purpose of storing my train related stuff in and still be able to get to the underside of the layout.
I do like the idea of putting the shelves and such on casters so that they can be removed without to much of a problem. Mike
I use plastic crates to store under the big spaces… but, I was lucky enough that previous owner left me 2 on the wall shelves that I tucked under my layout. I then left it so I can tuck crates BEHIND them to store stuff not often used.
Also, I bought some ol’ kitchen cabinets at a garage sale for $10… I placed the one on the right (the one with drawers) and put wheeles on the one with the door (it has a slide out bin, etc). I also put a wood top and edge and I move this around to where I need it (where I am doing scenerey, etc.).
Brian
I really like all the storage ideas. My layout is at the 38 inch height, which is ideal for castored kitchen cabinets and old book cases, for easy access to the underside of the layout. So, with a padded creeper, I can get to any portion of my 24’ x 24’ “around the room HO layout, with peninsulas”. The castored creeper ( with a slanted back rest, is ideal moveable support for wiring and soldering. I also used some old pallets for harbors, above some permanently screwed down dresssers, for rigid support.
Bob
I kinda cruised rapidly thru this thread. Its an interesting one. My [2c] is to use those plastic storage drwers you can get at Staples, HD,Office Depot ,K-mart. They come with drawers of varying depths and work out reall nice. I also store my collections of MRR Mags under the benchwork.
I use it poorly! [
]
I bought a couple of garage sale cabinets. I had to cut the legs off to fit. I do have skirting to cover all the trash.
Right now the the “layout” is a crawl space so I can get to the other side as well as all the boxes stacked up on each other. I have an old plastic 3 drawer storage thing that I keep the rolling stock in. Then a high shelf thing that has the power pack and random clutter.
Not much to do under a 4x8 layout. Whenever I get that bigger space and layout I will definately plan to have storage for trains as well as rubbermaid tubs full of other junk.
Terry,
Do you have another shot of that drawer? Is that a pickled finish on the red oak?
Don Z.
Only this one
You’re asking the wrong person i’m not sure what he used
all i know is it’s very smooth
as are all the joints
I’ll ask him
Terry,
The reason I asked was I’m curious about the construction of the drawers. It almost looks like the bottom of the drawer is dovetailed into the sides of the drawers, yet I don’t see dovetails at the rear of the drawer…just wondering.
Don Z.
since I am doing a shelf style layout, its …SHELVES!! all over the place and pretty much packed.
I change it so often to morph the areas to the layout I am designing.
I am getting the space I will start the layout opened up to work on it, its quite different from this photo now.
I was the beneficiary when my sister remodeled her kitchen and received her old cabinets which fit perfectly under the benchwork.
Here’s an older shot
Somewhat more recent view.
Note that other under-layout space has become storage for no-longer-needed-but-indispensible baby toys. Not visible are other cabinets with my rolling stock boxes. There’s still more room that remains unallocated - it’s pretty amazing the amount of floor space you capture that can be used.
Jim
he used a dado bit and put a slot in the frong and put a lip in the bottom as far as i can tell
Great post! I presently have a 4x8 that has a bunch of Rubermaid Totes full of rolling stock & locos. Next year, when I move, I plan on getting a few drawer units from Ikea. They have units that are about a 12" wide, 18" deep, 3’ high, and have drawers about 3" deep - looks ideal for rolling stock & anything else! They will be on casters so the wiring etc will be accessable.[:)]
I buy those 6-drawer and 4-drawer plastic cabinets available at office supply stores that cost around $20.00 each on sale. They have plastic castors on the bottom so they can be rolled around. They are only about 26" high and therefore will fit under most layouts. I store just about everything in them under the layout including vehicles, light poles, cast plaster rocks, etc. Next to my workbench, I have a couple more, one on each side of the bench, where I keep all my stuff like my airbrush , paints, couplers, chalks, sheet plastic, unpainted figures, all kinds of electrical supplies like bulbs and wire and just about anything I need for the hobby.
Hope this helps.
Mondo