For the airbrush experts on mrr.com, are the external mix, all-plastic, very cheap($5-10) a good stand-in for me until next year when I’ll recover from buying a spray booth and a new locomotive? Also what company makes these and what pressure do they operate at/are they easy to clean? Any help is appreciated, so
Thanks in advance,
Christopher
My airbrush is a $20 Badger spray-gun. It works fine. I can to almost anything with it. I’ve never heard of a $5-$10 airbrush.
Harbor Freight ( www.harborfreight.com ) sells 2 different ‘el Cheapo’ air brushes, one a single action the other a double action, both in the $10 to $20 dollar range. I have used both successfully as I don’t do complicated multicolor paint jobs. For aged painting and weathering they are more than satisfactory. At the outset either should provide satisfactory performance.
Good Luck
Randy
PS For what its worth I made a workable negative pressure spray booth for about $25 in parts and duct tape. WIth a bit of creative scrounging you should be able to do the same.
I’ve got one of the $9.95 el-cheapo airbrushes that is a copy of the Badger 350 (which I also have). Their performance is about the same, which is pretty good for an external mix single action. I prefer my Badger because of the accessories available, which won’t fit into the copy (different tips & paint cups, mostly). I generally use my Badger for “real painting” and use my copy for weathering.
If properly maintained and taken car of, any airbrush can produce good results, But I have found that the cheaper ones are more prone to accidental dammage than the quality ones. I have been using a Badger Model 200 since I got into the hobby and the thing has been as rock solid and dependable as any other tool in my work shop. So far I have only had to replace the needle of which my brother, bent on accident when he knocked it off the counter It was sitting on when I was in the process of cleaning the brush.
Also of note, the Magazine Fine Scale Modeler, about six or seven years ago, did a comparison shopping of Single Action airbrushes, and rated the Badger Model 200 as the best in overall performace, ease of use, ease of maintenence, and price.
Glad I could be of assistance.
James
I went to Badger’s web site, and there are several Model200 airbrushes. Which one is best for model rr painting and detailing, and which one do you use, greyhound challenger?
how dose it work do you have to fill it
Oh its cool but whats up with single dble is it the air
http://www.shoptheartstore.com/product_detail_multiple.cfm?groupID=76CEFBB1-C47D-4402-B6A7CF3B1760A1A7&shownav=0#
BUDLINER-single action means that the airbru***rigger only controls the amount of air flow. Double action airbrushes control bothe the air flow and the amount of paint being sprayed.
I have always loved the cheapies, and for painting cars and engines, they work great. I’ve never felt the need to bother with the fancy brushes, and actually dislike them because of the cleanup. They can be rather fussy if everything isn’t perfect.
If you aren’t trying to be “artistic” the cheapies should do the job. In model railroading, all we usually do is apply a single color to a masked area. Heck, I’ve even gotten good results from a spray can.[swg]
In last month’s issue of MR, the guy with the B&O layout said he did all of his weathering and painting with rattle cans.
I went to my local airbrush store and when I told the guy that I wanted to paint
MR stuff he sold me his cheapest unit the Aztek. I have been pleased with the
results. As MRRs we aren’t too interested in the precise control needed to
produce fabulous artwork we are far more concerned with even coverage and all
of the cheapos will do this nicely.
Could you give me a list of the components of your homebuilt spray booth are, and where to find them? If possible and not too much of a pain, could you send me a picture of it? $25 is a heck of a lot better than $250, and my dad could easily put one together if he had instuctions. Thanks for the idea, I always thought of building my own spray booth but didn’t know where to start.
I bought a cheap plastic Testors airbrush years ago. It worked pretty well at first, but it was extremely hard to keep clean even with water based paints. When paint began to stick to the plastic it stopped working consistently. Overall I was not satisfied with it.
Ron
You need to think about how much you are going to use your airbrush. If you plan to use it every day for a couple of hrs, then you probably ought to get a better brush (read higher priced). But if your’e only going to use it once or twice a week, then get one of the cheapies and learn how to use that. Just remember that you are not going to get the very fine lines or have the same control that the higher priced brushes will give you.
Use the cheap bru***o learn about control, paint mixtures, proper air pressures and patience. You aren’t going to start out producing award winning paint schemes. You don’t need a fancy double action air brush with all the whistles and bells to learn the basics. Learn them on a cheap airbrush and when you feel you are ready (and can afford it) then move up to something better. I have a Binks Wren that I bought 20 years ago and a Paasch VL double action my wife gave me about 5 years ago. I find that the majority of my work is still done with the Binks. Its great for large areas and is easier to clean. When I want to do fine lines or blend then the Paasche gets broken out. (although that probably going to change as Binks no longer produces airbrushes and parts are getting hard to find)
thanks cjm89
the dbl is the one I will like to get has to be better if you can control the amount you cant do that with the can
I also will like to see some spray booth Ideas I love minds helping minds
B -
What I am mainly going to use the airbrush for is weathering and painting a few Red Caboose and Bowser models. I will only use every week or so, probably less than that. I also planned to buy a cheaper single action and learn how to maintain and use an airbrush before going to the $100 + ones.