A couple of weeks ago I ordered a couple of structures from Colorado Model Structures, in particular the Cascade Summit Section House, and Cascade Summit Dispatch Office. After building the Dispatch Office and admiring my handy work, I saw something vaguely familiar. After thinking for a few hours I realized that the dispatch office looked much like my great-grandmothers farmhouse. The dispatch office scales out to just under 13 ft x 19 ft, close to the size of great grandma’s house. I promptly ordered another two to use as “company supplied” tract housing.
I figure $20 a house (dispatch office and section house) is not too bad. The depot is $30.
The section house and depot kits.
Now to find a place to put them all.
At these prices, looks like the days of bird houses on Rosebud Falls are few.
Probably not. I’ve spent the money for the SD tour and tickets to the show, but the wife is in the hospitial again. The doc is trying to get her well enough to drain the lung again and get her ready for another round of chemo. She wants me to go, but the heart is just not in it if she cannot go with me. If I do make it it will be for the Saturday show.
That’s Mrs. Robinsons house. Otherwise known as "NAKED GAL AND TUB" from Larry G Scale. I had to get the window low enough for the full effect when she forgets to pul down the shade before bath time.
I was informed this evening by She Who Must Be Obeyed, that I am required to go on Saturday morning. She had reinforcements, the daughter, son in law, both of her doctors and all three of her nurses. I am being required to bring her a photo of the two of us. Also she want vids of the layouts that are sure to be running. Will you be at the LSOL booth again this year? If I had known that you were there last year I would have looked you up then. The Tursday tour is out of the question now as she will be in the OR for a bit that morning.
Tom, thanks for the post about the buildings. I hope everyone will join for a prayer for your wife, “The doc is trying to get her well enough to drain the lung again and get her ready for another round of chemo”. Joe
Tom, I’ve never been at the LSOL booth, I’m at the Mylargescale.com booth [;)]
We’re in the backish side to the left as you come in, nearer to the layout setups. Be sure to check out the Del Oro, the Door Hollow Shortline layouts, and of course my “Little Borracho” (Borrachito?) pizza layout will be at the MLS booth. I’m looking forward to finally getting to see the Sundance Central layout, this will be their 1st appearence at the BTS.
Should be fun, bring your gold card, there will be alot more vendors than last year.
I’ve got a rather large box of parts from them sitting out in the work shed. Several of their wall panels for building an engine house.
Their design is based upon a flat roof. I’m going to slice up a panel and use some “structural wood” to build a clearstory roof, but that is a few weeks away. I also have a few other panels, which I intend to build a feed and grain store.
Brian, this time I am PLANNING installing a wall or two upside down.
The prime reason for this “accelerated burst of construction” is that the wife wants me to make a video “from the conductor’s point of view” of the entire layout. She has given me a list of structures she would like in place first.
Paint: For starters I use a satin black Krylon “Fusion”, it is designed for plastics, indoor and outdoor. I prime both sides of the wall. For the color coat I use the new line of Krylon “Indoor/Outdoor” spray paints. They have some new and very interesting colors in this new line. On the front face of the can they have a picture of five balls of different color, and a picture of a spray nozzel with the words “EZ TOUCH 360 DIAL”. Some strange colors like “tangerine”, “dark ivy”, “hunysuckle”, “hyacinathenth” (sorry about the spelling). I do the windows and doors the same way, primer coat with the “Fusion” and then a color coat with whatever color “Fusion” or the new “Indoor/Outdoor” line. For the roof shingles I double coat the satin black “Fusion” and while the second coat is still fresh, I quickly spray six to eight different color “mists” so that the liquid paints start to blend to acheiving the “ageing and weathering”.
Glue: Super glue. I’ve used several different brands. What seems to work the best, for me at least, is the cheap stuff at Wal~Mart, four tubes (1 oz each) for a dollar. Look in the glue section in hardware, the super glues in stationary just don’t seem to hold the heavy, high impact styrenes we use in the outdoor models. Most projects I prefer to use the gel type, but all these houses are built with the runny $1 for 4 tube stuff. Yes I ended up gluing myself to the project about every ten minutes, but the runny stuff seems to “melt” the styrene as I end up with a bead of “plastic” extrusion on the outside of the joints that needs to be easily cut off with a good pocket knife. I figure if the plastic "melts&quo
I got my three buildings i sent for last week from Colorado Model Structures , now to put them together ,thanks for the information on the buildings now to get the paint and glue . BEN
We are waiting for the pix of the finished buildings.
Like I told you in the email, when I saw the price of $20, I was not expecting much quality. When I got the first one open and saw what I had gotten, I went straight to the computer to order a whole bunch more. In my third order a pair of doors were missing, so I sent an email. He put the missing parts out in First Class Mail that day (Wed) and they were in the mailbox on Friday. Great Prices, speedy deliver of orders, plus outstanding customer service equals someone I will be spending more money with.
Ben sent me a question by email, and I would like to hear how others solve the problem. Ben asked “what did you use to glue the clear plastic on the windows and doors”. I have had very disapointing results using superglue (thin and runny as well as gel). As the fumes leave the glue they attack the clear glazing material and cause ugly distortions on the “windows”. My answer to Ben was #4x3/8 wood screws. I’ve been using 0.29 acrylic sheeting, when added to the thicknes of the CMS window frames is the right thickness to use the wood screws through the edge of the window frame. I would like to hear how the rest of you solve the problem of attaching window glazing without distorting the clear plastic.
