I need to build quite a few feet (30 plus) of chain link fence so I thought Walthers Chainlike fence would be the way to go based on price and availability. However, I’m not sure if the kit includes everything needed to build. I noted the instructions talk about wire and about contact paper (not included). Tried looking at video’s and not sure if I need to buy material for top and bottom rails or contact paper to attach the link material. One video showed someone using Evergreen styrene #219 for the rails. I think I also need to purchase thin wire to make the barbed wire section look OK.
Anyone familiar with this process that could help clarify I would be very appreciative.
You’d need five kits to build 30 feet, about $85 (“on sale”) not including shipping.
You can buy jewelers wire and tulle (bridal veil material, basically) for a small fraction of that price and make your own. All you need is some CA and silvery paint. I have a friend who did it that way, and the results are much more realistic than the kits.
I believe there are some good YouTube videos for making chain link fencing that looks great for a very low cost.
Chain link fencing is one of those things in this hobby I can’t bring myself to spend the money on from a manufacturer when a little scratch building can produce a better-looking result.
From personal experience, I can attest to the fact that the Walthers Chain Link Fence kits are a great choice for lllooooonnnngggg lengths of fencing.
I needed (still need in some unfinished spaces) long runs of chain link fencing on my HO scale layout to surround certain commercial land uses. After a bit of head scratching, I decided to try the Walthers kits to build these fences. Everything in the kit,except the floral wire, look perfect for what I needed. As the included floral wire bent just looking at it, I realized I could never use it to build straight fences in the lengths I needed. Fortunately, I got the idea to substitute 0.020" piano wire for the horizontal piping. I was able to purchase the piano wire in 36" lengths so long sections of fence became entirely possible.
I started by drilling 0.020" holes through the plastic fence uprights while they were still on the sprues. I drilled the holes through molded on “sleeves” at both the top and bottom of each upright. I also removed as much flash from the upright castings as possible while still on the sprues. I next carefully removed the uprights from the sprues and cleaned off any remaining flash, then set the uprights aside. I next formed lengths of piano wire to match the outlines of each property that needed fencing. I bent the wires at hard corners but let the wire curve naturally at gentle curves. With the wires (top and bottom) shaped, I marked each upright location and threaded the uprights onto the piano wire and cemented them in place with CA. With the fencing frames completed, I test fit each section in place and marked the upright locations on the layout surface. I next drilled holes in the layout surface and test fit the fence sections in place to see how they stood, making any corrections as needed. Once satisfied with the fence frames, I turned to fitting the tule fencing. I quickly learned that
I’ve built fencing with a couple of those kits. I liked the results but I used small pieces of the kits on various projects. I built a jig for assembling several poles and horizontal sections at a time. (Sounds fancy, but a jig was just a piece of 1 by 2 with a few holes drilled in it.) I ran out of the chain link material and was able to sweet talk a saleswoman at Michaels into a bit of bridal veil material, which is the same stuff.
I glue stuff together with these using CA glue because the materials are all dissimilar. Then I first spray with silver paint, and when that’s dry with dull coat to flatten it. I sometimes add a bit of rusty weathering powder to the bottom of the fence, depending on the area being detailed.
I have used hardware cloth in the smallest(1/2 in)mesh and tulle for chain link fences. Allows you to leave some wire out the bottom to put in the foam and out the top to make anti climb wire.
I want to thank everyone for there input and helpful insight, especially Hornblower with your very detailed guidance. I went ahead and bought the Walthers chain link kits, several packages of .025" polystyrene rods (came 10 in a pack and each one is about 14" long) for the top and bottom rails. I also bought a separate Tulle material from some online company (30’ long, 6" wide) that is already silver in color so I think I’m only going to have to paint the styrene to match.
I think this is going to work out fine, as I’m really not into drilling small holes into very small and fragile items. My luck (guaranteed) I would break quite a few.
Hornblower I really like your fences, especially the barbed wire and I think I’ll try your method as long as I don’t have to drill holes.
Again, I appreciate everyone’s help.
Thanks
Gary (Coastie71)
PS It will be awhile before I’m ready to build the fences so I’ll let everyone know how it works out.