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Walthers HO scale transfer table
The only thing I see wrong with this item is the bridge length. Many HO models are too long for a 14 inch bridge, steam locomotives with tender attached and uncoupling them and then trying to transfer them with out the use of the 050 (hand) will be difficult at best. In the real world a shop goat would move a dead loco minus it’s tender onto and off of the table and into the desired bay, just imagine trying to shove a bigboy or allegany or cab forward with out the tender and the drivers locked with a ge 44 tonner or something similar.
ith large locos
After reading the reveiw of this transfer table’s funtionality, I will look into incorporating it into my layout plans. I really like the idea of this feature on my railroad and the space saving over a turntable for a shelf style layout. Thanks to MR for such a discriptive reveiw of this model’s capability. I am rating this a “5” for great product “idea” to add to the hobby.
If they would only release it in N scale, even unpowered…
After viewing this product I feel that it would better on my layout then the turntable Ive got. Much easier.
After viewing this product I feel that it would better on my layout then the turntable Ive got. Much easier.
Have a problem with mine. It’s level, & hooked-up to 17.5VAC. When I turn it on, it shows that it wants to drive the bridge; but when I do the Go/Set, it just runs back and forth, never stopping (it doesn’t matter where the Menu point is, either). Also doesn’t seem to calculate the ‘0’ position, nor any other correctly; can’t activate the auto warning light; can’t set a stop for the bridge; etc., etc., etc. Am a tad frustrated. Doesn’t seem to be much real help out there anywhere, either. Perhaps MR, or someone, could do a really GOOD article on exactly how to wire and set-up. To me, the manual is barely OK - I’d rather see something in a bit more user-friendly language, tho. I’m missing something with it, but I just can’t figure out what.
gk - 6/27/2013
Have a problem with mine. It’s level, & hooked-up to 17.5VAC. When I turn it on, it shows that it wants to drive the bridge; but when I do the Go/Set, it just runs back and forth, never stopping (it doesn’t matter where the Menu point is, either). Also doesn’t seem to calculate the ‘0’ position, nor any other correctly; can’t activate the auto warning light; can’t set a stop for the bridge; etc., etc., etc. Am a tad frustrated. Doesn’t seem to be much real help out there anywhere, either. Perhaps MR, or someone, could do a really GOOD article on exactly how to wire and set-up. To me, the manual is barely OK - I’d rather see something in a bit more user-friendly language, tho. I’m missing something with it, but I just can’t figure out what.
gk - 6/27/2013
I bought mine a year ago and it set on the to do list. I’m now to the point of building two engine houses for both sides with 12 bays each. I assembled the table, have the cab facing the correct way, tried with my Advanced squared and with my old MRC tech II. I put power to the system and the proper letters scroll on the blue box but then I’m left with just a C in the read out. I have no further control of the table, no lights, no program selectability, just that darned C. Can anybody advise me as to what to do or where I can get a schematic so I can check which rails provide power for what. I’m going nuts trying to make sure the stops will accept my 2 1/16 inch o.c. rail stops to match my Lunde Studios engine house openings? Heeeelp! Thanks guy’s and gal’s. E.
p.s. I wired according to the manual for the appropriate power supply.