Are water traps necessary for airbrushing? Can they be home made? and where do they fit on the compressor? thanks rambo1…
Moisture traps are needed when painting in a humid atmosphere. They can be purchased from airbrush manufacturers. The one I have is made by Paasche, is a small cylinder that is fitted into the air hose. It has a thumbscrew that can be removed to let the air out. You might be able to make one yourself, but how would you know that it works? Check out prices for premade ones, probably a better idea.
I use one on my airbrush. I like it due to it keeps the mositure out of the line, which if you don’t get the water out enough can build up and see it in your paint when it hits the car, building, etc. I bought a cheap moisture trap for like $2.00 and it works fine. I didn’t have one at first and noticed some rust on my fittings and I needed one bad before it got to my gun. You might wanna look into one.
Interesting. I’ve never needed one in either southern Ontario or north Texas.
Where do the folks who find they need to use them live? Places like Louisiana, I’m assuming?
http://www.tptools.com/p/2504,69_Economy-Spray-Gun-Filters.html
These work great and they’ll last a REAL long time with an airbrush. You can get them at any automotive paint store for a few $$ each.
It’s not just for use in humid conditions - although that is one factor.
If your compressor is running for extended periods of time, the entire system - motor and pump - gets hot, this excess heat will cause air that is cooler than the operating temperature of the compressor to create condensation.
If you are running a compressor with a tank, it’s not as much of an issue as the compressor will cycle and not run as hot. Most water condensation will accumulate and remain in the tank … hence the importance of draining your tank periodically. I still have a water trap on my tank “just in case” but have never witnessed any condensation in it while airbrushing. The ONLY time I actually saw any moisture in it was after a full day of reshingling my roof with an air-nailer on a hot summer day !!! … there was also a LOT of condensation in the tank itself.
Mark.
I live in southern Ontario, and use the Paasche in-line moisture trap. The moisture is a by-product of compression, and will occur any time that there’s moisture in the air. If your compressor has a tank, there should also be a drain on it to remove accumulated moisture. If you’re using “canned” air, I believe that it’s had the moisture removed. The moisture trap is also useful to remove oil that may get into the supplied air from the compressor.
Wayne
Harbor Freight, and Northern Tools both sell water traps, and filters.
This is what I use for my airbrushes.
Regulator, water trap, and a few quick connects, for up to 4 airbrushes. A male fitting on one end of the manifold, to hook the air hose from the shop compressor up.
Rotor
I have a biiiig compressor in the garage that has a water drain on the bottom but my trusty ol’ Sears compressor that I’ve had forever and use for airbrushing has never sprayed anything but paint. My hoses are made of an elastic fabric, so maybe they capture whatever little mosture there is.
For years I used a cheap inline fuel filter [the clear plastic type] as a moisture trap, worked great! I haven’t needed one since I went with a tank comp. and have a dehumdifier in my hobby shop.
The fabric just covers and protects the actual rubber hose.
I don’t know how water traps for airbrushes work but I do know how they work out on the golf course! #%&_^())__&& - that is symbolic language, or course, and clearly violates the profanity statute of the forum rules.
And here I thought it was a new formula for calculating helix grades…[;)]
I too use a moisture trap in the air line between the compressor and the airbrush. Be sure to install the moisture trap about three feet or so from the compressor to allow the moisture to condense before reaching the moisture trap.