Thinking about NOT building waterfalls for two reasons: First, I’m not good at it - tried DAP, soldering iron on plastic, heat glue, etc. Second reason (excuse?) is that structures that are not supposed to move (tunnels, bridges, buildings, track, etc.,are fine, but an element that is supposed to move and doesn’t just looks silly.
All the methods you mention are at the tricky end of the scale. Try Woodland Scenics water effects or acrylic gloss gel (Liquitex is a common brand)… Both products are milky when applied, but dry clear. You can apply one layer, apply white acrylic paint highlights, then a second layer of you product, with quite convincing results. On most layouts ( including my old one) waterfalls are amont the most attractive scenic elements. Naturally, you’re not good at making them, especially if you go in with that attitude. Practice a few times, on a simple diorama, and you will quickly develop the technique. As for your other pbjection, well, except for those few of us who have one of the street systems to make vehicles move, nothing else does either. Vehicles are static, people and anilams don’t move unless we physically relocate them, and plants don’t sway in the breeze.
Practice, practice and then practice. I had planned to add a waterfall on my layout and read of a great idea but haven’t tried it yet. He used one of the water products or possibly gloss medium gel and brushed some on a sheet of waxed paper using long strokes. When it dries it is supposed to peel off the waxed paper leaving a transparent flexible ‘water’ that can be placed vertically on the waterfall model and finished with more of the ‘water material’. It sounds like one of the better ideas, but as I said, I haven’t tried it yet. Just a suggestion as a starting place.
This is how I did it. I used polyfill batting, like is used for cheap stuffing in pillows and craft projects. I took a piece and formed it to the rough size needed, plus extra at the top and bottom to anchor and teas out respectively. I wrapped it in clear kitchen plastic wrap.
I then attached it to a lip of brass that happened to fit where I needed it disguise a gap in between liftouts. I use clear plastic casting resin for my rivers, so worked the waterfall in after get the river right and leaving a way to slide in the brass lip. I cut open the front of the plastic wrap top to bottom and tidied it up.
Then I mixed and poured the resin in about three pours IIRC. The very first one was just enough to get it attached and was a nice green to show dense water. The other two were almost clear and went over and down the “falls”. I also did some highlighting with white.
After the last pour hardened, I trimmed the plastic wrap back so it couldn’t be seen, but still provided a support with the hardened resin. I added more painted highlights, along with using some silicone that is used for making cake decorations. You can mix paint into it, so I added lots of white highlights by vertical smudging it on.
What’s critical is teasing out the strands of polyfill and the way they sort of worked together by the resin. Somehow it came out darn good, so it’s not my skill so much as the materials. The resin is a little stinky, but not as bad as it used to be. B glad to answer any Qs.
Now that my friend is one amazing waterfall!!! I particularly like the view from the side because you have totally mimicked a real cascade. Amazing work. [bow][bow]
Your comment reminds me of another tip. Arranging the “launching pad” is critical. There are dramatic falls like my first pics and others that are more sedate, falling over a series of intermediate steps. The terrain they spring from has to match, as well as on the way down. Then you can do the little green swirl at the top, etc to fit. Here’s a more stair-stepping set of falls and whitewater, just they silicone on top of the resin.
The last little bit at the top is really tiny, with a coved backdrop behind it, where the forced perspective worked out pretty well…
It was kind of tricky, but as the resin of the first and second pours set up I was able to form and shape things. That’s why you want just enough to anchor and add a bit of a “sticky armature” at first. Second pour lets you fill that out and then the third one pulls it all together. The poly-fill is white and gives most of the foaming water effect, then the resin makes it “wet.”
I can’t emphasize anough how great the cake decorating silicone worked for me. I tried Mod-Podge and it was going to take forever. The silicone whipped right up with some white paint. It’s a little tricky, but you’re just highlighting so the thing is mostly about keeping things small and numerous for best effect.
Another thing I recently noticed about some water features (water falls, and just rivers or creeks), they look great in static pictures but not so good on videos. I’ve seen all sorts of attempts to animate the water from real water to a rotating aluminum foil drum underneath. None I have seen are umm umm convincing.
Gee, if real water doesn’t convince you I don’t know what can. I am rather surprised more folks don’t incorporate real flowing water with a small pump on their layouts.
It is also difficult to keep where want it, is destructive to other scenery and the trains when it gets away, needs treating with chemicals so it doesn’t harbor unwanted growing things and bugs, and it evaporates.
It does work on large G gauge outdoor garden layouts as part of the landscaping, and many years ago there was a G gauge latout with real water in the middle of a Sacramento CA area shopping mall that was quite spectacular.
The poly-fill and resin combination is a little tricky to set up, but once you start pouring it just works to give an airy sort of feeling to the water. Actual artistic skill is minimal, other than having a good picture of it in your mind or otherwise available for reference.
Thanks! Only been to Canada a couple of times, but the wife and I enjoy it, so some of the sceneray may have rubbed off. There was plenty of time for that on our honeymoon trip. We took the “Tour of the Line” on the Algoma Central in May from the Soo to Hearst and back[:)]
Yep, we’re both that geeky. She likes trains, too. She ripped my cassette recording to digital of Animas Rover sounds along the line south of Silverton I made back in 96 or so. That’s on a MP3 player and a set of computer speakers, one at each end of the aisle, as the two water features are at opposite ends of it from each other. I need some more waterfall-y sounds for the big one, which I call Cascade Falls, though, for it to really sound great. I keep it low, so it works fine and will be especially effective when I get over there with my new LED lighting, which you can see on the second page of The Night Scene:
My trees are a mix, but the predominant ones I use are Busch 189-6499 100 count pine tree asst. I also like the Heki pines, which are somewhat bushier. Then I’ve used a few Grand Central Gems Spruce trees lately and really like them, as they have a more detailed structure than the German brand ones. Mixing them up in terms of brand/appearance and height is important. That’s a big part of the forced perspective in the second set of lower falls.