weekend photo fun May 1-3rd.

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
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You guys are giving me a lesson in nautical terms and modelling skills that I guess I really need to document (remember my memory???). I have a few old photos I took when I first got the model and made a mock scene to see what I might want to do with it.

I actually have two close friends that are maritime artists (William Muller and William Ewen) and historian that I may contact for additional info. I will definately pass it on as this topic is getting very interesting now and rekindling my ‘need’ to look more closely at the model. I have attached a closer view of the carfloat and you can see some of the items I want to replace. The bollards however, ‘seem’ to be the right size for this vessel, but again ‘what do I know’ when it comes to things like this. I have a lot of marine ship model parts that I purchased a few years ago, hoping they would come in handy when I got to the harbor detailing. I need to go ‘searching’ my caverns of parts to see what I may have stashed away. I keep finding ‘neat stuff’ that I forget I have when looking for something else. 40+ years of collecting can do this to you!

Thanks for all your ‘research’ data and very enjoyable reading. As I said earlier, I hope I can recollect this when I am in full charge of the project.

-Bob

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I finally did something I haven’t done on a layout before since i have moved way too often. I finally started Scenery! While I only have the based sculptamold down it is a start. Next I will painting it some fashion of tannish brown. By the way, I have to say I a througoughly impressed with Sculptamold. This is my first application of it and I am impressed.

The gap on the left will be fixed shortly. I had to go on a business trip before I had a chance to finish. The left side is a swing gate so it can’t be permantly fixed. I think I Have figured out how I am going to do it. I am going to lay some seran wrap over the right side of the joint and then lay the sculptamold on top of that so it does not stick to the right side and make a permanent bond. this will all the door to open but also cover up that nasty looking joint. Sorry I am little late to the WPF but I did this over the weekend but didn’t get a chance to post it until today. maybe I will repost it in this coming weekends WPF as well.

43

Bob,

I’m definitely no marine expert, but IMO, FWIW, etc, your bollards look a bit largish for the size of the ship. I suspect they would be sized to allow the vessel to be towed, but just guessing there, in which case they’re pretty robust. Making them smaller I think would also make the rest of the details seems more delicate, which may be more important than getting the size exactly right in terms of overall effect.

Renegade,

Looking good there[tup] You’re on the right track. The Saran wrap works wonders. Best thing is to form one side as you want it and let it dry overnight. Remember that you want overlapping, but not catching, so some slope or taper may be what you want to set up in how the two pieces meet up. Then locate the Saran so it keeps things from sticking and apply the Sculptamold to the other side.

Two schools of thought on when to try things. One is to let it dry pretty much before you disturb anything. This will give you the tightest fit, but if you miscalculate it can lock things up. The other is to carefully try to open while things are still pretty damp. This is when you can adjust, trim, etc to get a better fit, then dampen a finger to smooth before closing onto the Saran again to let it dry more. Either will work, just be aware of how things match as best you can.

Here’s a pic of how a couple of m