A further disappointment with the Tortise machines are that the contacts only handle 1 amp maximum (unless that is what you meant by the contacts being too small) so you have to use the Tortise to switch a relay that has a 10 amp capability for O ga trains (scale, toy, or tinplate).
another disappointing purchase was a lemon (have you ever gotten a lemon?). A 1986 Hyundai, the first year they came out. After a couple of years, the repairs I made exceeded the cost of the car and ended up giving it away.
So, trains aren’t the only disappointments!
Don’t even talk to me about dental insurance; that beats all. So far they haven’t covered my crown or implant; just piddly stuff like cleanings and fillings.
Are you talking about the PC board edge connector that comes out the bottom and also has small holes for soldering a wire?
Be aware that these machines motors only draw a few milliamps and you only need something like telephone hook-up wire (i.e. 22 AWG) to connect them to the power source. You should also be aware that they are made to draw current all the time (motor stays in a safe low current, low heat dissapation mode), resting at each limit with the motor stalled. This way it keeps pressure on the point rails. (Some DCC controllers even have a nifty feature to reset the points on each powerup of the layout to ensure the switch points are securely engaged).
These are actually pretty nice switch machines and by keeping the drive voltage low can simulate the slow action of a prototype power switch. Some folks also use these machines to power semphores prototypically.
The biggest complaint from the Model RR community is the auxilary relay contacts that are inside the motor are only rated for 1 ampere, which is not enought to safely handle switching of power to the frog in a 2 rail environment (includes some HO applications - 5 amp DCC driver/PS - and definitely a problem for O scale - 10 amp).
These contacts are pretty handy for low current signaling and/or feedback to a control panel for switch position. But to power and unpower an adjacent block in O scale, you need to add an external relay that is rated for 10 amps that is triggered by the Tortise aux contacts.
Let me know if you want to discuss any thoughts on how to wire these guys up.
Dave, I am surprised you can’t solder to those. That’s a .156" card-edge connector. If I remember correctly, they even put holes in the pads. If you want to try a connector, here are a couple of postings about them:
I haven’t yet wired them up and am glad you brought this info to my attention! What sort of transformer would one use for these and how can the connections be made? I was thinking of using 12 v DC from an HO pack to power it. But there’s no loop for my wire to connect.
Will be using these to power some handmade turnouts. May also use to power a crossing gate and some other animation.
My 319 dollar kline Penn makado. It arrived in a factory box that had been opened and then retaped with a different tape and when I took engine out the drivers and rollers had wear marks on it indicating it had been run.
When I ran it in command it ran very jearky and when in neutral the smoke came out the bottom of the engine. The instructions said the fan would come on when in neutral, lwhen it got too warm in the smoke unit. Mine did not do that it just burned out.
I feel I got a factory reject as no other engine has come to me with the outer factory box taped back with different tape.
I had to send it back at my cost of course and am unable to get another Penn as they are out of them. They did agree to refund my money or subsitute another road name.
I selected C&O and hopefully will get a good one. Dave.
Dave, you can power the Tortoise from an ac source through a rectifier diode, like a 1N4001. The direction of the diode determines which way it runs; so, use two diodes and select which one is in the circuit with an SPDT switch or two normally-open pushbuttons or a Lionel-style switch controller.
I have had a Tortoise apart; and the switch is just fingers moving on a circuit board. I suspect that it can handle much more than 1 ampere, especially if it does not have to switch under load. If you are using it to power a siding, that shouldn’t be much of a limitation.
Dave, Are you sure your Mikado came with a fan driven smoke unit? I thought they had the puffer type. My UP is coming this week and I hope I don’t have your troubles and have to return it. Good luck with your new one. Neil
Northern1,
I ordered one of those 319 PENN K-line Mikado critters too! I haven’t recieved mine yet. Sure hope I don’t get the one you returned! [:)][?][:(] I will inform the board when it arrives and its condition.
My most diappointing purchase was a Bachmann HO K4. The driver wheels were all out of alignment. I sent it back to the factory and didn’t get it back until more than six months later after several confused phone calls. Loco was repaired OK, but they returned it with a burned out headlight! [:(!]
Many times to varrying degrees. My Lionel T-1 when it’s running is a favorite but I have had a bad run with the speed magnet Lionel uses for Odyssey. The Southern 2356 Fs from a few years back…love the engines but wi***hey offered the original PW line up as the cars instead of the passenger set.
My great-looking Lionel ACL Sd-18. Good price, great looks, nice horn, fine puller, and BAD TRACTION TIRES! i guess that happens after 20+ years on the shelf. As soon Red’s train shop at trainland USA opens, I’m getting the tires fixed.
I picked up a Lionel GP-20 in GM&O scheme (not prototypical, but who cares? It looked great.) Ran it half a lap before the front truck came apart and the weight fell out! I got it back together, but it always derails on turnouts.
The 1983 Buick Skyhawk I had 20 years ago. That car was a DOG!
Sorry, Rocky and Misty! I wasn’t talking about you!
An $80.00 new SantaFe RS-3 (Lionel) which is completely plastic, has one cheap DC can motor and can barely get itself around my layout; forget about pulling any cars.
Lionel 840 power station remake. Just has no smoke output
MTH 45 degree realtrax crossing. It had a short when I took it out of the box and then after I fixed it a lot of my engines stall when they cross it at slower speeds.
An MTH 400E PS 2 that had no sound rite out of the box. After Christmas I sent it back and the MTH service people fixed it up.
I purchased a #80 signal from Ebay. The description said base is crackedbut works fine. When I received it, it had no insides. You learn as you go.
Bought the Wabash gp-7 3 unit lashup. It worked for about 10 minutes then one of the engines went silent. Sent it back to the dealer and about 10 long-distance calls and about 9 months later finally got it back but still didn’t work. I was frantic! By switching parts from one of my other locos found the speaker was bad. Bought one from a dealer in Chicago and installed it myself. Seems to me a dealer could’ve repaired it more easily than I did. OH, and he didn’t return it in the original box. John
I also bought the infamous Lionel Construction Zone set and was furious to find out that the RS-3 had no reversing unit not even a manual reversing switch.Luckily I only paid Fifty dollars for it,so I took the Rs-3 to my LHS and had the owner install a 3 position E-unit and an additional can motor to make it a dual motored locomotive.After I repainted it in NYC Lightining stripe livery,it pulled a 25 car train with no wheel spin and is a very reliable addition to my locomotive fleet.[:)]
