Can’t go wrong with Model Master enamel, did a real fine job on my very first time using an airbrush. I use Model Masters lusterless spray instead of Dullcoat, never a problem.
Today’s spray cans are really pretty good for painting models. They are the only thing I use on structures, now.
For finer work, I like TruColor paints the best applied with my airbrush. I thin them very slightly and spray at about 20 psi using a medium tip on my single action Badger 350. They are especially nice if you want to do decals after painting as the finish is fairly glossy. This is a solvent paint requiring the TruColor brand thinner but clean up can be done with acetone or lacquer thinner.
I have not yet tried airbrushing acrylic paints. To my knowledge the best info on that would be the acrylic painting guide put out by Model Railroad Hobbyist, the free online monthly magazine. The painting guide came out in August as I recall. Google the magazine, subscribe (it is free) and then as a subscriber you can download the painting guide.
The best flat finish I have found is in a spray can by Testor–Model Master Lacquer Overcoat Lusterless Flat. I used to airbrush using Testor’s DullCoat and I seem to recall one other brand, too, but I cannot find it on the web now. If you are careful to apply thin coats I think you will be pleased with Lusterless Flat in the rattle can. I use it over any kind of paint but be sure to let the paint cure for at least a day or two before spraying the overcoat.
I’m using Trucolor paint, I couldn’t find a close enough color match to SP Daylight Red and tried them all, Trucolor was perfect. I’ve been using Trucolor ever since and never looked back. Regular Big Box store $7.50 per quart Acetone works very good for thinning and cleanup.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
Model Master Acrylic is okay, but nowhere near as good as the original version of PollyScale, which it eventually replaced.
If Trucolor is the revived version of SMP’s Accupaint, it should be very nice for airbrushing, again, thinned with lacquer thinner.
As I use-up my supply of Floquil and PollyScale, I’ll be using Scalecoat, but thinned with lacquer thinner for airbrushing.
Dullcote in the bottle is my choice for a flat finish: a bottle will go much further than the spray can version, with the added bonus that it can be mixed with Glosscote, in varying proportions, to obtain a complete selection of semi-gloss finishes. Here again, I use lacquer thinner for thinning it for airbrushing.
For a thin, even layers comparable to air brushing, Tamiya spray cans are top-notch. I used their Bare Metal Silver (AS-12) to paint my Walthers “Miss Bettie’s Diner” and couldn’t be happier with the results.
I like the paint lines mentioned and have used a variety over the years. I have photos of models on this forum that were painted with Pollyscale, MM, Acryl, and Badger’s Modelflex. I prefer to weather with acrylics due to the ease of “washing off” mistakes. [:P]
However, l lean strongly towards Scale Coat II for refinishing locomotives and freight cars. Today’s rattle cans have come a long way, but when it comes to precise control of paint application, it’s very hard to beat a quality airbrush.
I thin Scalecoat II between 50%-60% with automotive lacquer thinner and apply it at 25psi approximately 2" from the model’s surface. As you can see in the photo below, it goes on very smoothly. An added plus is that Scale Coat II cures to a hard, glossly finish. So you can skip the clearcoating step since you’ll have a surface ready for decals. After applying decals you can seal them with gloss or semigloss clears, followed by a flat clear or dullcote.
For stainless steel passenger cars, I use Alclad2 strictly, but that’s another topic.
