Just beginning to model. I’m going to begin my bench work soon, and I am new at writing posts. I hope I make sense for all to understand. My neighbor gave me a pallet, 15’ long 43" wide for my benchwork top. Told me to build the legs and put the pallet on top, using screws and wing nuts to easily make it level. Then put plywood on top of this for my layout. Sounds good to me, its already built and sanded smooth. Then I have another smaller pallet to add to the side to do the same, to make the layout wider. Does anyone see any problems with this? Also I’m about 5’ tall and wondering at what height off the floor should I have the pallet to comfortably work on the top and underneath? Also have read that screws are better than nails that are in the pallet. Is there a type of screws should use to add to the pallet to make it work better or stronger? All your help is appreciated!!! Many thanks!!!
I think you ought to read a book or some articles on how to build benchwork before you start. Pallets are not known for quality wood and would be either overkill or get in the way later on. You want the supports on edge because its stronger and they cover less of the bottom of the layout.
Do read the Lynn Westcott’s book on benchwork [link].
The height depends on whether you want to look down on the layout or facilitate operations. The former would put it lower chest height, the latter at throat height (maybe).
Take anything that wide ( a board, stick, piece of cardboard) and place it at the height and location you are considering. Then see if you can eother reach the center or back edge if against the wall. I am 6’5" and would have no chance of reaching 43" into a railroad even though I wear a 38" sleeve.
Welcome aboard! [#welcome]
This is an old picture of my original benchwork:
It’s made of pine, with 1x4 lumber on the outside of the frame and 1x3 as the cross pieces. The legs are 2x3. There are casters on the legs to allow it to move around. Diagonal braces and plywood gussets provide stability.
I use 2-inch pink foam as my layout base above this - no plywood. It’s one of those “personal preference” things, by the way. There is no “right way” to build benchwork. Yes, there are “wrong ways.” We will try to steer you away from those.
This layout is 5x12 feet. The main level comes out to about 39 inches tall. I built it that height and used the casters to tuck it under a 45-degree roof line. I can pull it out to work on the back, so my maximum reach to the center is just 30 inches, 2 1/2 feet. However, if I had it to do again, I would add 2 or 3 inches at least. I find that the height is uncomfortable for doing wiring work beneath the layout.
From experience, that 30 inches really is as far as one can stretch and actually work on anything. Also, this layout is unusually low, which makes the reach easier. Those who have their layouts up around chest or even eye level have a more difficult reach, and often have step-stools to get up high enough to do anything in the back of even an narrow layout bench.
Some people, like MisterBeasley, make benchwork disguised as fine furniture, others, like me, make just-plain-old benchwork. Fine wood like MB’s is pretty expensive; I find good-quality plywood cut into strips to make boards a good substitute. The 41-year-old photo below shows the use of clear pine which, at the time, even a highschool teenager could afford.
Wood from a pallet might not provide sufficiently long boards for all parts of a layout’s benchwork. You will probably need to shop for some long pieces.
Mark
As usual I’m confused. The other respondees are assuming that you are taking the pallets apart and using the wood to make benchwork. What I got out of your post was that you have already used the pallet to make a table and are asking questions about leg height and replacing some of the pallet nails with screws. Or am I misinterpreting your statement that “its already built and sanded smooth”.
Can you clarify that?
Regards
Maxman,
no need to be confused!
A layout of whatever size is always a quite heavy investment in terms of cash and time, so it is important to do some basic things right. One of the really important issues is benchwork, as it is the foundation of your layout and any shortcut you may take will be highly regrettable later on, as warping etc. will take the fun away.
Get this book
“Basic Model Railroad Benchwork” by Kalmbach Publishing - it is 20 bucks well spent. It has all the info you need, also on what type and grade of lumber you should use.
hi,
I second the opinion of Madog, and to be blunt: stop building now and start thinking. And ask all the questions you.want.
Don’t get me wrong, but those two lines in one posting are giving me a creepy feeling.
Your benchwork very much dictates the trackplan and it is usually better to design a plan first and then decide how to add a second table. Professional designers always ask you to make a drawing of your room and to describe your wishes first. In 102 realistic layouts, by Kalmbach, Andy Sperandeo is giving a nice exemple about how to draw a room. Another twenty bucks well spend. An exemple of wishes: I want a coal branch in the Virginian mountains in the 50’s, but I do not want much switching.
If those 43" inches are allready wide enough, or far to wide, depends on your wishes and on the scale you will use. And of course the scale is depending on your wishes as well. A modern mainline through a flat Nebraska needs big radii, long trains and N-scale; while a branch in an industrial zone in an older part of town can be done in HO.(even in O-scale on your pallets)
Drawing your room and getting the picture on this thread will perhaps be your first adventure. Just ask for help if needed.
Stupid question (may be), I can’t make up my mind: Are you still a teen, and will you become 6 feet in two years? Remember a modelrailroad is not built in a year.
Keep smiling, have fun
paul
To all that have wrote to me, your suggestions are helpful. I finally found how to reply. I also wrote the What do you all think part 2 and answered some of your questions. The pallet is made of 2X4s length and 2X6son the top and bottom and it is a reusable pallet. The wood is as good as if I’d just purchased it at a hardware store. Never heard of a reusable pallet either, but it was supposed to be returned.
I have not started building, but the pallet has nails and I think I should reinforce it with screws. Would deck screws work good?
As for the guy asking about my height, I want to reach it comfortably and I am 5’ and will not grow any more.
The benchwork will be in the middle of the room, and will be able to walk around all 4 sides. Thought I might even put in a trap door if I can’t reach areas. Is this a problem?
Again thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
Choo choo
Okay, so what it sounds like you’re asking is about using the pallet wood to make your train table. In that case, the pallet wood is way too heavy to be used for a train table. Generally, and traditionally, train tables are built using 3/4 inch thick 1X4, 1X3, or sometimes 1X2 dimensional lumber. More recently, some have used a good grade of 3/4 plywood ripped to 3 inch wide pieces as a replacement for the dimensional lumber. Even more recently, there has been some use of foam insulation sheets to replace the table tops.
Those 2X4s and 2X6s are more suited to wall studs and ceiling joists.
I would recommend that you follow some of the advice above and get some of those reference books. And yes, do use screws instead of nails.