Hi!
I’m building my umpteenth laser model structure, which of course uses wood and paper like products. In the past, I would use a typical woodworking glue (i.e. Elmers) and distribute it with a squeeze tube applicator.
The current model - an AMB ATSF station - would be much easier to build if I had a faster drying adhesive “for wood”. I’ve experimented with a number of other adhesives but nothing yet works as I would like.
So the question is, what adhesive works for you with laser kits?
I’ve had very good experience using Aleen’s Wood glue, it takes about 5 minutes to setup on basswood. It’s far from fully dry at 5 minutes but I can turn things loose without pieces falling apart. I built a dozen scratch built catalog homes using it without any problems. Used very lightly it works great on Campbell shingles without warping the roof.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I generally like gap-filling CA. Zap and Great Planes are some I’ve been using lately. Hit it with some kicker and go. But you may not think that’s wood specific enough.
Titebond III Ultimate is made for wood. It says to clamp it for 30 minutes minimum, but so long as things are tight together seems to work well enough. Full strength takes 24 hours per label, but I’ve found when used thinnly and with shallow joints that can evap quickly, things set well enough to handle much sooner.
When I need a joint to be strong as possible, I use the Titebond. But it really slows things down for me compared to CA.
For pieces that need to be secured to eliminate warping, as with thin wood sheet, I like CA shot with accelerator. The accelerator forces the glue to set quickly before it soaks into the wood, which would lead to a weak bond.
This laser cut depot had several thin wood pieces that were difficult to hold straight during assembly, and warped readily with traditional wood glues. Use of CA with accelerator allowed pieces like the roof to stay properly aligned. The completed structure is very solid.
Canopy Glue, tacky, waterproof and tough, the absolute best.
Mobilman44,
For many yrs., I have built a lot of wood kits and even ship models all wood and have used many types of adhesives, Ambroid, many yrs. ago for wood…it was ok, but, had to be clamped and you had to be careful where you put it, cause it would leave a film for painted or stained and it would show. I also use Zap, for bonding, wood/wood and to plastic, which incidently, works great, but you also have to be careful how it is applied, because it also will show and hide the grain when staining.
The past yr. I have been using Northeastern Flamingo glue and have had great results…drys in five minutes and is extremely strong. Glued white pine to each other, along with cardboard, mattboard and combinations thereof and have been very satisfied with the results. In most cases, there was not any need to clamp and once cured is very strong. I inclosed a couple pic’s, of what I used it for…framing for a interior building, which is removable and concrete foundations for an overpass, still in progress, made out of white pine ripped on a couple table saws to scale and illustration board, all glued with Flamingo glue…you have to break it…before it will come apart:
https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/glue.html
Your choice, with the suggestions…but I was satisfied with it.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Ambroid, I remember that stuff. Wouldn’t think of using it now.
I spent a lot of years building RC model airplanes and got very involved with scale warbirds, some of them very large, and also speed planes. Getting good, lightweight bonds that can take a lot of stress was critical. I guess I carried what I learned into railroading because I am much more comfortable with lazer kits and building with wood than I am with styrene and other plastics.
For strength I use tightbond, and for more decorative pieces I use regular white Elmers. I apply it with a toothpick- if you keep the coat light then both glues dry quite fast and the bond is just as strong if not stronger than gooping it on. And canopy glue around window casings and in delicate areas. I do use some medium CA but only when it just has to set very quickly. CA is fast but can get you into trouble- there isn’t much time to make adjustments and it can affect the finish. Also don’t use CA anywhere near clear plastics like windows. Just the vapors can quickly haze them.
I use Weldbond. Looks and works just like white glue, but if something ends up being wrong, you can hit it with a heat gun and re-align or take apart easily.
Mark.
How well does it work wood to wood?