Hi everyone.
I am tired of my Testors glue bottles. One is stuck and I opened another one and have difficulty to make the glue come out.
What glue do you suggest me to buy that is easy to use and wont get glued completely after each time?
Which type of Testors glue do you use? I use Testors cement for plastics, which is basically a solvent. If there is build-up, I just use a rag to remove it. Compared to CA, it’s a cinch.
Simon
For Walthers structures, I use the Testors thick cement from the tube for walls and such - it fills gaps and assures a good bond. For most other stuff I use Plastruct Bondene or Tamiya Extra Thin glue from the bottles.
I use this kind but I need to find another type with a little brush inside. I heard of Tamiya but there seems to have a few Tamiya glue on the market and I don’t know which one to choose.
I use Weld-on 3, fairly cheap too.
I used to always use Tenax-7R until it went away, then switched Ambroids liquid cement. Alas, that went away as well. I have since found that Micro Mark’s “Same Stuff” is exactly that … the same stuff as the old Ambroids. That’s been my cement of choice ever since.
Mark.
I use Tamiya’s Extra Thin Liquid Cement. It comes with a brush in the cap and a little goes a long way. I sometimes use a slightly larger brush for bigger projects. Unfortunately, nobody seems to have it in stock!
http://www.hobbylinc.com/tamiya-extra-thin-cement-40-ml-plastic-model-cement-87038
Dave
I use Bondene. There are two versions, one with an orange label that glues styrene and ABS and a white label for just styrene.
I also scored some real MEK. I like that equally well. Unobtanium in some states. If you use it and turn into a toad, well California warned you.
I tried Tenax and I swear it evaporated before I could get it to the model [:D]
As the famous model railroader Dustin Hoffman will tell you, there are Plastics and then there are Plastics Windows get something else entirely and not ACC.
I use Faller Expert. It has a needle applicator that is very handy. I have tried others but for me Faller is the best .
CN Charlie
Any of the “plastic welders” is good. These are the thin clear liquids. They work by dissolving the styrene back into sticky goo. The two surfaces of the joint meld together. Then the “plastic welder” evaporates, and the styrene goo turns back to solid styrene. The “plastic welders” only bond styrene to styrene. To bond metal or wood to styrene I use CA or Duco cement or epoxy. I have used a number of brands over the years and they all work the same. Some years ago I bought a $5 quart can of MEK from the paint section of a big box store. It’s gonna last me the rest of my life.
I saw this one but at 23$ I find it expensive. What do you think?
I use MEK and CA for just about everything.
I use the old Tenax bottles I have for the MEK.
Mike.
That’s what I use the Tamiya Extra Thin, but I purchased mine at Hobby Lobby for $5.99.
Ralph
Hobbylink has it too.
Finally I have just found a local shop that sells it for 5$ 
Ordinary styrene-to-styrene bonding is generally fine with the clear Testors cement with the little brush inside. Be neat with it. I always clean up the threads on the bottle and the cap so they don’t stick together.
For windows, I use Canopy Cement because it dries clear.
For plastic-to-wood or plastic-to-metal, I use CA. Again, practice good glue hygiene and your bottles should last and always be easy to open.
For structure corners, I use CA to fasten a thin piece of balsa wood inside the corner for its entire length, glued on both surfaces. This is a more secure bond than either plastic glue or using CA just for the plastic joint, and it also seals the corner joint so there’s no light leakage if you illuminate the inside.
That is all I use for plastic-to-plastic.
Good old liquid Testors with the brush in the cap.
I have a custom cap I made with a much better brush. It has lasted for at least a dozen bottles of cement by this point.
-Kevin
I use Faller Expert plastic cement, it works great when putting together plastic structure kits and other things.
Reading between the lines, the OP is ‘dribbling’ a little cement on the neck and edge of the hole in the bottle as he goes to make each bond, and not cleaning this cumulative buildup off before he screws the cap back on. This is both ‘cementing’ his caps shut, and keeping the cap from making a solvent-tight seal on the neck, allowing the glue to thicken in the bottle (and probably become globbier to the point it starts to damage the little brush going in and out).
It’s important to wipe the neck and, when necessary, the inside of the cap, with a solvent or cleaner periodically. A trick I was taught a half-century ago is to apply corn oil or similar vegetable oil to the threads of the cap to prevent binding.
You can thin this cement – I don’t remember the specific solvent in Testor’s but it’s been in threads here and some of the ‘regulars’ can tell you precisely what the ‘safe’ vs. ‘effective’ solvents will be. The easiest way to do this is with a small eyedropper that is not made of materials the solvent(s) will damage. Give the solvent a little time to diffuse through the glue in the bottle, and shake it with the (cleaned!) cap properly tightened.
When I take the brush out of the bottle, I run it at an angle against the inside of the neck to press out some of the cement in the ‘heel’ part of the bristles where it does no good but drip. I may also quickly pull remaining glue out of the brush, heel to tip, just before I reinsert the brush in the bottle. I’m sure there are other ‘kinks’ about liquid cement you can find in the archives or in advice you will receive here.
(Incidentally, if the brush and stem have not hardened in the cement, you can ‘help’ the plastic Testor’s cap off with something like a small adjustable wrench or water-pump-style pliers, where the curve of the toothed jaws matches the circumference of the cap. Once you break the
My Testors glue does not have a brush (it’s what I buy at my LHS). I use a toothpick when I need to apply a very small amount. The cement does not set very quickly, so it’s not a problem.
Simon