That and what do you like to use to attach them.
Mostly, I like thin clear plastic. DPM kits and I think City Classic kits as well come with this. If you don’t have any, use clear plastic from any over-packaged product with those bubble displays. I use canopy cement or Aileen’s Tacky Glue to attach it to the back of the windows. Both go on white and dry clear.
City Classics also makes sheets of window shades printed on clear plastic. Both pull-down shades and Venetian blinds are available. These apply from the inside liked this:
From the outside, they add a nice detail to the windows.
I only use real glass (slide covers) that I cut with a diamond tip scriber and glue with thinned crystal kleer.
Slide covers are what I use as well. You can buy them as large as 4" x 7". If you buy unsterilized ones they are pretty cheap. You could also steal them from the resident Veterinarians office when she is out.[:-^]
I use the plastic from packaging, when it is in relatively large flat areas. I cut to fit to cover the window frame on the inside and run some MEK around (it wicks nicely without much effort). I print my own blinds in CorelDraw or use color paper/card stock for shades, and these I tape in place with regular Scotch or other brand of transparent tape. Works nicely and is not much of an effort. On the double hung windows (Tichy and Grandt), they come with laser cut windows and shades, which makes them easier to finish.
-Bob
I have plenty of plastic and also slide covers. Can’t seem to fine canopy glue around here but have varius forms of tacky glue (never found much use for it before). I have some test peices and will try the tacky glue. The MEK or similar stuff seems to go where you don’t want it. Got the real glass for front and center stuff (the ones I am about done with (if the extra parts arrive soon) are background buildings but then that would make them about 2’ away.
I use real glass cut with a carbide tipped cutter and sometimes clear plastic. In the beginning used Kristal Klear to glue them in, but lately have learned from my Military Modeler brother to use Future Floor Wax. Put the “glass” in place dry, then using a fine brush, dab a corner with the acrylic wax. Capillary action takes the FFW all the way around. Only warning is that this is not as “handle proof” as KK. It is great though because you can achieve very neat results even with very small pieces that you might need to glue in.
Joel
One caution, if that is the right word, about using slide covers (which I use when practical) is that it is actually easy to accidentally “double” two slide covers together and not even notice. That is how thin they are.
Dave Nelson
These are called double pane windows don’t ya know. On my layout they started appearing in about 1890 don’t ya know…[:-^]
Yep!!
Just that they hadn’t found a way to infuse low-E Argon gas between the panes…“way back then”…!!
May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly…and ON TIME!!