What Kadee couplers do you use and why. I’m just starting to build my fleet and was wondering the pro’s and con’s of the different couplers are.
Don’t let this turn into a flame war please, I just want to find out which coupler I should use.
-Smoke
I use the Scale Whisker ones. They are much close to scale than the regular 5 series, and they feature the whisker centering springs (a god-send).
The downside is that they arnt as forgiving as the 5s…but I dont have any problems with them uncoupling.
David B
here’s the link to the Kadee HO conversion listing, it’s a PDF, and lists the proper coupler for almost every application, by brand, front and rear where needed.
I primarily use the #5 couplers, with the old bronze spring. I have a few packages of the whisker type couplers (not scale size) that I plan on using on special need cars. I was tempted to switch over to the scale size kadee coupler (#58?) but since I’ve invested so much with the 5’s, I don’t know if I’ll be able to. If I’m to switch to scale size couplers, however; I’m considering going to the sergent couplers (http://www.sergentengineering.com/). These have caught my attention and am truly considering converting, but price is a key factor and reason I’m hesitating.
The kadee’s are excellent in construction and are reliable. They also have an extensive line of coupler variations that will pretty much take care of most needs that arise from different train manufacturers ways of mounting couplers. I think someone posted a link to kadee, a good idea is to really look into the site and gain a better understanding of their product. I would recommend kadee to you and I think you’ll find them very great.
All Kadee couplers are compatable with eachother.
I the coupler I use is the #158. It is a medium shank scale coupler with whiskers. A real drop and play coupler…no adjusting with perfect centering every time…that was the issue with the #5 series, unreliable centering.
David B
[%-)] I use the appropriate coupler for the application. Why would one limit themselves from all the options available? I have a big box that I keep at least one package of each type of Kadee coupler in. I’m not going to spend 4-5 hours filing, filling, shimming, or doing other major surgery on a model when something like a #9, #23, or #46 will drop straight in and be done in 5 minutes.
Just today I was working on a train to take to an operating session. I tried to drop in a #5, but the mounting stud was too big around for the brass spring to fit. So instead of shaving the stud or filing the spring, I just reached into my box and dropped in a #148 (whisker) instead.
99% of ALL equpiment offered today will use a standard #5 coupler…they are designed for it. The 158 is the scale equivilant with whiskers. GD, why would you spend all that money for couplers you will never use?
I just dont get it.
David
that number is probally closer to 40% that use the Ol’ # 5, and for some brands,( Athearn, Rivarossi…) and especially for locomotives, it’s probally closer to 20%, that’s why Kadee makes NINE differnt standard couplers, plus scale, whisker, scale/whisker, and several different mounting options for the correct fit and proper operation
“99% of ALL equipment offered today will use a standard #5 coupler”
Notice I didnt say “99% of ALL equipment will use a standard #5 coupler”. These are 2 different statements.
I dont consider Athearn BB and Rivarossi equipment part of “equipment offered today”. They are OLD products that require the appropriate offset coupler from Kadee.
I challenge River_eagle to find ONE locomotive that is currently in production with new molds in the past 10 years that uses an off-set coupler. All the equipment I have bought in the past 10 years has just recieved #5s and has been in gauge…[banghead]
David B
KD #5’s now, but I’m upgrading to the non scale whiskers as I can afford to. I hate those old centering springs. It’s hard to get them to fit properly in some older locos.
OK, how about this,
BROADWAY LIMITED
STEAM
SY 2-8-2 Mikado…MCS* Pilot, 17 Tender
USRA 2-8-2 Heavy Mikado…33 Pilot, 23 Tender
4-6-4 Hudson…78 Pilot, 58 Tender
MCS = NO.5®, 28, 58, 118, 148 or 158 Medium Centerset Shank Coupler
or how about these Genesis
ATHEARN “GENESIS”
STEAM
USRA 2-8-2 Lt. Mikado (road pilot)…
…36 Pilot, MCS Tender
USRA 2-8-2 Lt. Mikado (step pilot)…
…34 Pilot, MCS Tender
4-6-2 Pacific…36 Pilot, MCS Tender
4-8-8-4 Big Boy… 148 or 158 both ends
…Closer Coupling 153
4-8-8-4 Challenger… 148 or 158 both ends
…Clo
Remember that these are what Kadee recommends…it doesnt mean the #5 wont work.
For example…I have the Kato SD40-2…and I have 158s front and rear. So you see, this list is in NO way a ‘bible’ of what coupler goes on what.
FYI…All my BLI tender couplers have 153s
David B
I’ll name one - Proto2000 SD7/SD9 will not accept a #5 KD. There is not enough space between the screw hole and the frame to fit a #5, hence the recommended coupler is a #33.
jktrains
so, the coupler on the rear of your Sd40-2 is too long, it works, but it’s not the correct one. you are going to all the trouble of using “SCALE” type couplers for a more prototypical look, only to use one that is too long, or to short, just so you don’t have to buy more than one size of coupler?
Yeah maybe so, but I don’t think so. Not even close to 99%. Then what about all the older stuff, what about all the scratch built & kit bash stuff. If you think about it the #5 isn’t really even a 100% drop in for the Athearn blue box because they are too low. One has to put washers on the bolsters to lift them up.
Never use? Why would you think I would never use them? I guess it depends on the size and variety of ones fleet and how much work one does for other people. The only coupler I can think of in my box that hasn’t “turned over” in the last two years are the older #7, #8, #16, and some sets of #505 & #508. The #5xx are because I’ve been focusing on Walthers passenger cars instead of Rivarossi lately. Not to mention that I developed some of my own methods for body mounting on the Rivarossi anyway. The next least used are the things like the #450 and #455 that are for specific locomotives. I would guess that if I would sit down and just get busy converting my fleet I would easly consume the entire box several times over.
Then, all what money? I pick them up on sale (bunchs at a LHS closing for $0.10 per pack), at swap meets, and/or purchase in bulk. How much money in gas and time would I spend driving to a hobby store to buy a set if I waited until I needed them. How much in postage would I spend to get just the one or two I needed at that time via mail-order? Much cheaper to keep them in stock. I probably have spent less for my selection that most people do for 1/10 of what I have.
What I don’t understand is why some people will spend hundreds or thousands of doll
No cheapstaking here on my railroad Gandy. It used to be #5 until the new 148 Whiskers came along.
The small stuff between rolling stock that does not match the gauge might see a visit to the Kaydee Website once in a while.
Regarding keeping several of every availible Kaydee number… that is going to happen one day.
It’s the Manufactors who are being the cheapstakes, they dont provide for Kaydees right off the bat Only one (Rapido) has stepped up and explained why they enjoy leaving it up to the buyer what to put in.
It took decades for the horn and hook to finally bite the dust. Even today you might still find a few out there. UGH.
Kaydee any way you can get it to fit and use the chart for the best match.
I guess I should have put this in bold the first time.
I guess i’ll go with #5’s
-Smoke
If you go with the number 5’s you might as well get some 148 whiskers instead. It is easier to use. MUCH easier.
I dont see any flaming yet… LOL.
I don’t either but we’re mighty close. OK i’ll check those out
-Smoke
[quote user=“Gandy Dancer”]
Yeah maybe so, but I don’t think so. Not even close to 99%. Then what about all the older stuff, what about all the scratch built & kit bash stuff. If you think about it the #5 isn’t really even a 100% drop in for the Athearn blue box because they are too low. One has to put washers on the bolsters to lift them up.
Never use? Why would you think I would never use them? I guess it depends on the size and variety of ones fleet and how much work they do for other people, but the only coupler I can think of that hasn’t “turned over” in the last two years are the older #7, #8, #16, and some sets of #505 & #508. The #5xx are because I’ve been focusing on Walthers passenger cars instead of Rivarossi lately. Not to mention that I developed some of my own methods for body mounting on the Rivarossi anyway. The next least used are the things like the #450 and #455 that are for specific locomotives. I would guess that if I would sit down and just get busy converting my fleet I would easly consume the entire box several times over.
Then, all what money? I pick them up on sale (bunchs at a LHS closeing for $0.10 per pack), at swap meets, and/or purchase in bulk. How much money in gas and time would I spend driving to a hobby store to buy a set if I waited until I needed them. How much in postage would I spend to get just the one or two I needed at that time via mail-order? Much cheaper to keep them in stock. I probably have spent less for my selection that most people do for 1/10 of what I have.
What I don’t understand is why some people will spend hundreds or thousan