When I started my layout, I was able to find lots of talk about track and people’s favorite locos and rolling stock, but little on the topic of power packs and transformers. I had to learn the hard way what would be a good fit for my particular scenario.
Anyway, I have settled on a Lionel V. What I like and why, is I run mostly old traditional locos, and I run a mix of Marx, Lionel and some other stuff.
I found that smaller transformers maxed out at 15-16 volts, not enough for big engines or odd things like my Thomas Industries. Transformers that provided more watts, had throttles with ranges from either 6-14, or 11 or more to 24 (these are approximate).
So if I connected my track to one throttle it was good for Marx but not big Lionel or others, and vice versa. What I like about the V is each throttle gives you the entire range, so I can run any of these locos. Also, having multiple variable volt throttles allows me to fine tune what I send to turnout solenoids or light bulbs.
I imagine my scenario is different from other folks. What works for you, and why?
I have a variety of transformers kicking around, some get more use than others but I don’t have a permanent O, S, or Standard gauge setup, so it’s easy enough to switch and swap what I use.
While I love my ZW and it’s absolutely worthy of its reputation, frankly I just as much enjoy the single throttle LW. I just can’t get enough of that stylish light up dial with the green pilot light in the middle. Not to mention it’s got enough “umph” to handle pretty much any single or dual motor loco I might want to run. I think it’s my default transformer to pull out when I want to run my O gauge. I may only have one that is currently operable, but I have another 2 or 3 that are OOS, awaiting some varying degrees of repair work!
For American Flyer S Gauge, my 12B is my usual favorite. It’s powerful, gives me little trouble, and I like the look. Plus I got it fairly cheap!
I tend to run my Standard Gauge with a Lionel type Q, because it’s currently the only pre-war transformer I have with continuously variable voltage, not to mention the only prewar transformer I have that is in operable condition. Plus it has the up-to 24 volt range, if I need it (so far I have not).
I have a 1044 that I occasionally use when running late '50s/'60s era Lionel, just for kicks. Most of the time though, I hook it up to a Lionel 0150 “Recti-Volt” and use it to operate my postwar HO scale Lionel, Flyer, and Marx, a task it is most readily up to. Eventually I would like to supplant this setup with a Lionel 0100, which shares the same case and handles as the 1044. In my opinion, it is the best transformer Lionel offered for its HO line.
For my permanent S gauge layout I use two ZW-L’s for track power. This layout is designed to operate with Legacy and all the layout functions (turnouts, uncouplers, accessories, lights, power blocks, etc) are controlled from an iPad running LCS. The two ZW-L’s feed 8 power districts independently with a total of 80A. There are 5 additional accessory power supplies, some AC, some DC. The layout literally has no control panel. Engines are operated with a Cab 2 handheld, the rest of the layout by touching an iPad screen running the LCS app.
For my conventional layouts I use MRC AH101 transformers.
This is my power center. Starting from the right side, I have a Type K 150 watt transformer set at 24 volts connected to a #95 rheostat to operate my Standard Gauge oval. To the right of the K at the end of the board are 2 terminal strips. One is wired to the 20 volt taps of the KW and the other is connected to the 14 volt taps of the Type R transformer on the upper left end. The 14 volt strip handles the layout lighting grid and the 20 volt one is for a few accessories that drain too much power from the KW.
The buttons in between the K and the #95 are for the 125 whistle shack, the MTH operating Esso gas station and the third button is an open one used as needed. The KW is the primary power supply for the O Gauge line but the porcelain based knife switch in front of it allows me to flip the O Gauge from AC to DC using the AristoCraft Train Pack. I tried running 3 rail O Gauge with an MRC DC power supply but it kept going into overload, so I bought a G Scale pack and it works great.
I only have 2 O Gauge locomotives that were “born” to run on DC but I converted my MTH engines to DC when they lost their ProtoBrains years ago.
Is that a ceramic base knife switch towards the bottom of the picture? I remember having one in elementary school (a few years before you were born), and the one in the picture looks like the one I had.
NB: As Woke pointed out, it is indeed a porcelain based switch and now I am sure I had that same model of switch. The porcelain base does lend a bit of class.
i use a lionel KW with my o guage and one of these black boxes with the red handle for my ho i think its a bachmann. i do have a tech2 but i never could get that thing working kept saying overload. i also have one of those bronze metal ho ones in backup too
I forgot to mention that since my Type V doesn’t have a reverse button or switch, I route my track power through a knife switch. It saves wear and tear on the transformer and is very convenient for stopping or reversing trains.
I’ve got three loops on the layout and run each with an MTH Z-1000 transformer. Z-1000 Transformer | MTH Trains.
The reason being my MTH N&W starter set came with one and I liked it, a LOT, so when the time came I got others. All my trains Post-War and Modern love the Z-1000’s and run perfectly with them.
I also have a Lionel KW but that’s just for under the Christmas tree loops. I run those trains smoke off, sound off.
By the way, where are you folks finding knife switches? I can’t find them anywhere!
I like the style and power of the LW, but I never get above 16 volts. It goes up to twenty. The TW is a fantastic transformer, I have wired it to my “ Flyover” track. It goes up to 18, and has additional taps for accessories. More power than I probably need. It also runs through a knife switch, delivering power to either the Flyover, or an American Flyer loop. 1033 is great , but less power. A 1053 runs an 0-27/ Marx loop. American Flyer 8b is more than adequate for most Flyer needs.
Paul
Also, I finally understand the concept of the lever on Lionel and Flyer transformers: it is to quickly go from minimum to maximum and back again. I need this on my Flyover track. Full throttle going uphill, them quickly throttle down on the downgrade. ( I rolled a 2035 by going too fast downhill). No harm done…
Sounds about right. I used a 50+ year old knife switch I’d been sitting on for years on a test track I built for the club’s train shows. I’d like to get a couple more just to have but can’t find them anywhere.
I wonder if they’re even made anymore?
I bought mine (3 of them) new in the box not too many years ago from an eBay seller. I also have several ceramic base lamp fixtures in my buildings I bought new even more recently.
I like the idea of switching back and forth between AC and DC, but I have some things that use common ground with the track- turnout solenoids, turnout lights, and a semaphore. I don’t think it would work for me to flip over to DC
I have a few things like a 145 gateman that I have a sliding switch wired as an interrupt so I can turn them off. Otherwise they may operate continuously on DC. Also, I often have track side accessories connected to a constant voltage tap on the KW so switching to DC at the track would do bad things.
I don’t know the part number, but the little black plastic controller with the red button/switch that slides (like the ones I have in front of my type K) fit very nicely under the gateman roof. Other momentary signals like a banjo or crossing gate that uses only track power are fine.
